How To Install New Pool Returns

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M

markjones

0
Jul 23, 2010
9
Miramar, FL
My pool has a floor cleaning system but no wall returns. I want to install 2 returns. Can anyone offer suggestions about how best to plumb the PVC? There is an impressive video on youtube about the EZINLET. This appears to be the best way to go.

_________________
14,000 gallon pool-spa combination.
Cartridge filter.
Inground pool.
Shotcrete construction.
3hp Pentair pump.
 
I am still trying to understand why you need to add the wall returns. Are the in-floor returns not doing something that you would like the wall returns to accomplish?
 
That is correct. The floor jets do not propel debris to the skimmer or the drain. I believe the returns will improve the circulation. Also, I want to be able to shut off the floor jets while running the pump because they sometimes hang up the vacuum cleaner.
 
Normally, a cleaner is not required with properly installed floor jets so it sounds like they are not operating correctly. Have you tried to troubleshoot them or have they never worked properly? Installing wall returns is not going to be an easy job so my first suggestion is to try to get the floor jets to work properly but perhaps you have already determined that they are not worth fixing.
 
Scott,

Thanks for the info. I have installed a Paramount 9-port valve (2 "mushrooms"), and the returns are plumbed to 1 of the ports. I core-drilled a 2" hole, but opted not to use the EZInlet. Can you offer some instruction on how to install the pipes with mortar and epoxy? How large a hole is needed for 1.5" pipe? I looked for epoxy at Home Depot, but there was nothing suitable for 7x24 underwater applications.
 
Welcome to TFP!!

Having surface action to get floating debris to the skimmers before it sinks is a good and wholesome thing :goodjob:

However, I wouldn't steal the water from one of the floorcleaner's heads. Rather, I'd plumb a line to the returns before the 'in-floor-valve', but have a 3-way valve to properly control the flow to the valve. Mas85 can tell you better about what sort of pressure you need to maintain for that set-up. I can also proffer some advice, but I've never retro'd in a return line on an infloor cleaner, so Mas or JasonLion, would be better able to help you on flow rates.

As for sealing the 2" hole, with return through it, let me knoe what you're thinking about doing ... and I'll help (hint - hydrolic cement) :cool:
 
Ted,

I installed a Jandy 2" 3-way valve between the filter and the "in-floor valve". The 3rd port goes to the return, so I can select the return or the floor cleaning system.

I am going to drill the hole a bit larger to accommodate the hydraulic cement/epoxy. I do have a core drill rig so this should be easy. I just want to do it only once. The video on the EZInlet site showed a groove "drilled" out in the middle of the concrete wall (water stop?). I'm not sure if this is necessary.

I welcome the advise!

Mark
 

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Hey, Mark :wave:

THANKS for renewing my attention to this!

What you'll want to do is use hydrolic cement (Waterplug or similar) on the wet side of the wall. (I'll give a couple of tips in a minute)

On the outside of the wall, you want to support the pipe, so that it stays in place and I like to seal the outside portion with caulk. Apply the caulk as per instructions, i.e. clean and dry and proper temp). This is a back-up for the hydrolic cement.

Hydrolic cement can be a BIG pain to use. You only have ~ 5 minutes to mix and apply it before it ~fully sets up :( For it to be used properly, bevel the edge of the hole you are filling, if you can rough it up, to give it a better hold, that's preferable. Mix it in small batches and don't make it so wet that it dribbles out of the hole and runs down the wall. You can either use a pastry bag to squirt it into the hole or a margin trowel. If it's setting too quickly for you to place and smooth, it can be 'cut' with regular Portland cement, however, this weakens the final product!

What I would like to know is what you will be using to accept the return jet/ eyeball - it's easier to just have a F/A, but a F/A threaded adapter with a flange would probably look better. Let me know what you're gonna use and I'll do my best to 'walk' you through it. :)
 
Thanks, Ted. I am going to sketch my plan and attach it to my next Reply. I have an eyeball that will work nicely, but it requires a female adaptor. What is an F/A, female adaptor? To prepare for new Diamond-Brite to be applied in the future, I am inclined to go with a raw pipe. Now would be the time to decide... What diameter hole should I drill for a 1.5" pipe?
 
Hey, sorry for the delay :(

Having the F/A ~ 1/8" behind the wall's finished level is good. It will allow you to 'pack' in the hydrolic cement and still leave room for the new Diamond Brite.

Getting a return inlet that has a 'flange' would cover the dimple in the wall. :cool:

Please keep in touch :cheers:
 
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