Polaris adjustments

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anonapersona

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Nov 5, 2008
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I am still having trouble with the Polaris 380. I thought it was all fixed but since we replaced the back up valve with the one I found in the attic the darn thing has not been behaving properly. I think the back up valve runs too long. I'd like to know if that run time can be shortened.

The hose connection for the Polaris is well below the swim out shelf and when the back up valve runs now, it sends the Polaris up onto the shelf or it lands on top of the hose connection and gets stuck.

The last back up valve failed when it cracked. I believe it was stuck on the swim out shelf or the tail was stuck on a rock and the valve tore itself open. If the Polaris stayed on the floor and did not climb this would not have happened.

I do not have a good understanding of the fine tuning that occurs via the position of the float valve and the direction of the thrust jet. I've had float far forward or far backward, jet to 11, 2, center and in between. It still hits the surface a lot and that is when the tail scrubber can get caught on the rock coping.

So, the questions are three
1) can I shorten the back up valve run time?
2) how do I keep the Polaris on the floor more?
3) is there a recommended procedure for fine tuning?
 
The backup valve is a fixed timing device.

The white float is simply there to keep the unit with its wheels to the floor. With out it, it would roll on its side.

The thruster jet, in some pools can help the sweep maintain a more random direction and helps with wall climbing. I usually set it straight or off to one side a bit if needed. Every pool is different. There is no exact setting. The scrubber tail should sway side to side gently.It should take about 1 to 1-1/2 seconds to swing from one side to the other. Any faster and the pusher jet suffers.

Scott
 
Ok, regarding the white float. What is the starting position? I read here somewhere that 1 1/2 inches from the front is the best spot. I notice that the unit is sun faded to suggest that it was always fully to the front. Where to start?

It may be that the tail is to vigorous. I took some weights off a few months ago. I'll try to dial that tail motion down with the adjustment screw.

With the thruster jet, is there any suggested method of checking.... like start at dead center then slowly rotate in wider circles? I can do that, but I think that the float is the main thing to get right first. As in, set the float for staying down on the floor, then play with the thruster starting with dead center.

Given that the 380 has 3 wheels -- is there some reason to favor starting left over starting right with the thruster adjustments? This "bad dog" stays stuck facing the steps or the swimout ledge a lot, not able to creep along the vertical walls because of the rough edges of the rock that is the lip of the step or ledge. Wondering if a left push works with or against the lack of a front wheel.
 
i have a 380 and am very familiar with all the parts and pieces. i have replaced all the internal drive parts, bearings, belts and wheel covers but the unit just doesn't seem to have the power it had before. i can barely touch the wheels with a finger and they stop way to easy. also, it gets stuck at the base of the stairs all to often. finally, the tail doesn't whip like it did before even though i've opened the screw more. none of the hoses are loose inside and the strainer at the wall connection is clean. seems to have plenty of water power when i take it out of the pool, the power just doesn't seem to drive the wheels anymore. suggestions anyone?
 
It sounds to me like you have all the bases covered, unless you have a bad spring in the pressure relief valve. Is there a lot of water exiting the side of the valve at the wall connection?
 
BTW, I have sort of fixed the issue of my unit being pulled up onto the swimout ledge by moving the first float further away from the back up valve. Now it is about a foot away from the valve and so when the valve pulls itself up onto the swim ledge, the Polaris itself is far enough down to not get out of the water. Seems to increase the time spent on bottom as well. It still does sometimes get stuck there, but less than before. Now it manages to get itself up there. I may try one more adjustment on the float valve, currently an inch from the body, might try a bit more.
 
doesn't seem to be. the fitting at the wall is very tight. i did notice in the manual that there is a water restriction plate in the wall outlet. i think i am going to remove the restrictor to see what happens. thanks.
 
I didn't mean tight. There is a bypass in the wall connection. I found that mine was shooting out a lot of water. When I covered the bypass by pressing my heel over the outlet, the Polaris started moving normally. At the time, the pool was very new to me and so I had no idea if the volume of water bypassing was normal or not. This failure happened slowly with more and more water bypassing as the spring failed, until the grey cover popped off. I think the new cover piece is not grey. I found the cover but could not place the logo that it displayed. Anyhow, this still may not be your issue.
You seem to be on the right track investigating the flow rate. Is there any chance that the hose was reassembled with a swivel in the wrong direction?
 
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