Jandy Aqualink tri-sensor adapter

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fyton2v

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Jun 3, 2007
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Hi all,

I'm a little worried about the story I'm getting from Jandy/Zodiac. I have a new aqualink RS install and right off the bat I started getting intermittent error codes (181 and 172 I think). Those codes indicate that the sensor is bad... according to the manual... since flow was clearly not the problem.

Jandy's fix for this isn't a new tri-sensor or circuit board. They sent me a little daughterboard with some circuitry that sits in-between the serial connection from the sensor and the interface on the chlorine generator power board. I'm worried that this thing might just be artificially telling the controller board that there is flow... perhaps when there isn't. Even if it's not it seems like a pretty shoddy fix for something that is clearly a system issue. Funny that it doesn't actually come with the system. You have to install it, watch it break, call them, and then they send it.

Anyone familiar with this thing?

Thanks.
 
Jandy had problems with the sensor a few years back and its been dragging on till sometime this past year. The problem was with the sensors with white epoxy. They are now with black epoxy. That board fix hasn't been out long so its hard to tell if it is a fix or a band-aid. Unfortunately for you, only time will tell. I would keep Jandy up to date on this so if the fix fails, it is documented with Jandy, and you get the proper warranty.

Good Luck.
 
I hope this Dang thing works. Since the chlorinator was "sort of" working before the fix I found that it would report no-flow when I had my filter pump working at 800RPM. It would give me a flow reading at about 1000RPM. Now with the fix in place I get the flow reading at 800RPM. I haven't tried it below 800. I'm hoping i'm pushing the minimum of 30 GPM at 800RPM so I don't burn out the cell. I suppose time will tell. I do, however, eventually plan to install a flow meter so I'll be able to tell if it works after the meter is in place.
 
All new AquaPure Tri-Sensors will come equipped with a Tri-Sensor Adapter Board, which improves the Tri-Sensor electronic signal and helps eliminate sensory errors.

For new AquaPure 3-Port Cells and Tri-Sensor R-kits:

The Tri-Sensor Adapter Card has been added to all finished and replacement products containing a Tri-Sensor, and
is pre-calibrated from the factory. No further action is necessary.

For existing AquaPure 3-Port Cells and R-kits:

If you have existing 3-Port Cells or Tri-Sensor R-kits in stock, do not return them. Simply order the Tri-Sensor
Adapter Board by itself, part number R0537600. This kit will update the Tri-Sensors you already have.

Determine if the Tri-Sensor Adapter Board will solve an issue:

The Tri-Sensor Adapter Board is NOTrequired for every existing installation, and only specifically addresses
the service codes 172, 181 or NO FLOW. The Tri-Sensor Adapter Board does NOT provide a resolution to other
service codes that may be present.

For the 172, 181 or NO FLOW codes, it is essential that the following steps be performed prior to adding the
Tri-Sensor Adapter Board to ensure proper diagnosis:

ï‚· Balance the pool chemistry and ensure that phosphates are not present.
ï‚· Test the salt level with an accurate salt tester, such as a Myron L. meter or other digital or analog salt tester.
Levels should be between 3,000-3,500 ppm, and no more than 4,000 ppm. Do not use the AquaPure or
PureLinkâ„¢ user interface to test the salt level in this instance. Also, do not use salt test strips to test the salt
level, as they may be off as much as 800-1,000 ppm.
ï‚· Clean the pool filter.
ï‚· Ensure that a minimum of 35 GPM is flowing through the cell.
ï‚· Ensure the cell and sensor are properly plumbed and installed. See AquaPure/PureLink Installation Manual
for specifications.
 Clean the cell with a 4:1 water-to-muriatic acid solution. See AquaPure/PureLink Owner’s Manual for
instructions.
ï‚· Clean the tri-sensor with a rough sponge to remove calcium build up. Do not use muriatic acid, sand paper
or other harsh or abrasive substances, as they will damage the tri-sensor.
ï‚· Follow the steps provided in the AquaPure/PureLink Troubleshooting Guide for the service codes indicated
on the AquaPure front board or user interface.

If these steps have been performed and the 172, 181 or NO FLOW service codes still persist, install the Tri-Sensor
Adapter Board, part number R0537600.

Important Notes:

1. PureLink systems with an AKC13 front board, requiring a replacement Tri-Sensor Adapter Board, will also
need a PureLink AKC13 Flow Sensor Cable Assembly, part number R0538600. This cable assembly
accommodates the limited clearance between the top of the AKC13 front board and the power center can, so that the Tri-Sensor Adapter Board may be installed. This cable assembly does NOT come with the Tri-Sensor Adapter Board and needs to be ordered separately. Do not attempt to install the Tri-Sensor Adapter Board directly into the PureLinkâ„¢ AKC13 front board without this cable. Doing so will cause damage to the Tri-Sensor Adapter Board and/or the AKC13 front board.

2. Stand alone AquaPure systems with plastic grey housing, containing the AKC13 front board, do not require
the PureLink AKC13 Flow Sensor Cable Assembly.
 
I've had my pool for a bit over 3 years with Jandy Aqualink system. After reading these post, i've changed out the tri-sensor and cell both following all directions to a T. The only difference i saw was the tri-sensor adaptor i had to install.

Problem i'm having now is about every other day, my pda shown "no flow". I can go out and turn off all power turn it back on and I'm good to go for about 1 - 2 days and then get a "no flow" on my pda again. I go out to the control box to check and sure enough, no dummy light is showing on the flow.

Any suggestions or help would be appreciated?
 
BlazeRegulator said:
All new AquaPure Tri-Sensors will come equipped with a Tri-Sensor Adapter Board, which improves the Tri-Sensor electronic signal and helps eliminate sensory errors.

Important Notes:

1. PureLink systems with an AKC13 front board, requiring a replacement Tri-Sensor Adapter Board, will also
need a PureLink AKC13 Flow Sensor Cable Assembly, part number R0538600. This cable assembly
accommodates the limited clearance between the top of the AKC13 front board and the power center can, so that the Tri-Sensor Adapter Board may be installed. This cable assembly does NOT come with the Tri-Sensor Adapter Board and needs to be ordered separately. Do not attempt to install the Tri-Sensor Adapter Board directly into the PureLinkâ„¢ AKC13 front board without this cable. Doing so will cause damage to the Tri-Sensor Adapter Board and/or the AKC13 front board.

2. Stand alone AquaPure systems with plastic grey housing, containing the AKC13 front board, do not require
the PureLink AKC13 Flow Sensor Cable Assembly.
Click to expand...

Yesterday I installed a 3 port kit into my older 2 cell Aquapure 1400 system. My question is on the need of the Cable Assembly based on point #2 above. I want to confirm this applies to what I have.

The housing on my control box is grey. During the install, I couldn't confirm the board is the AKC13 other than by comparing it to the b/w diagram in the instructions. I assumed that was the board I had - and saw the reference to the need for the Cable Assembly - so I left the protective cover that came on the Tri-Sensor Adaptor and I also left the top of the cover gapped open until the Cable Assembly comes in. (to avoid any contact with other components).

If by 'stand alone AquaPure system' you are describing one that doesn't have the APurelink or other add-ons, it sounds like that is what I have. Can you answer this for me?
 

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I just installed a new tri sensor, with that new adapter board, on my older Aquapure 1400 (circa 2006). Fixed my no flow, 172, 181 codes, which I had been getting off and on for a few years, then solid about 1 month ago.

From what I could tell from the instructions, you only need that extra cable for certain Aquapure systems that don't have the right clearance on the AKC board to install the adapter board, and then the normal cable (if you close the box, it will bind/get crushed). That extra cable just reroutes the cabling for better clearance...it's a pass-through cable.
 
Blaze Regulator quick question. I just got my Jandy yesterday and installed it . I put the adaptor in but the instructions said to press the litlle button in and hold it till the floww light comes back on to "calibrate". Said something like it would take five seconds. I got nervous was more like 15 seconds but eventually came back on. Does this mean I don't have to calibrate the measured salt level with the Jandy reading?

Thanks
Rich
 
Thata ok. It was off, and I calibrated it down to the measured value. It read 3900 and the taylotr test kit and strips from tftestkit both were around 3300. So I adjusted it to 3400. I was wondering about that little button on the adaptor board. I did as the instructions said and it took longer than five seconds to respond. Was it necessary to perform that function?
Thanks
Rich
 
I'm on my third flow sensor. Originally in installed 2007. NO FLOW in 2010. Replaced the flow sensor, no daughter board included. The flow sensor is indicating NO FLOW again so ordered another sensor. This one came with a daughter board but no additional cable. Now ordered the cable and waiting. If this daughter board is to fix someting then registered owners should have been notified.

Now my question is should I use the adapter board and cable with the cell that indicated NO FLOW (old) and possibly this becomes fixed. This would save me $200 for the new cell... or do I need to put the dark epoxy colored cell in anyway?

In addition, one web store I went to stated that the daughter board was required for variable speed pumps and if I had a standard old style pump just plug the flow sensor in without the addition board and cable??????????????????????????????
 
My pool & Jandy equipment is a bit over a year old. About 3 months ago, got no flow error so PB replaced the flow sensor and added the small daughter board. That worked for about 2 months then I got the no flow error again. This time PB removed the daughter board (didn't change the flow sensor), calibrated the SWG with a digital salt tester (said it was just calibrated ???). So far so good. Generates and maintains chlorine level just fine at 30%-35% setting with pool temp at 92-95 degrees and full desert sun. Don't know if Jandy is using trial & error tactics on us or if there is really some engineering behind the various configurations.
 
This forum is super helpful. Thanks. I got 172, 185, 186 errors. It means I need to replace new sensor. I bought it online but the new part came with the Adapter (Good I guess) but it did not come with R0538600 cable to connect with AKC13. Few quick questions:

(1) Do I need to use adapter since the old system did not have one?
(2) How do I know I have AKC13 board?

Nik
 
AKC13 boards are the old style boards where all your connectors were on the top of the board with the digital display on it. Standalone (grey plastic box) or PureLink (behind AquaLink PCB).

The NexGen AquaPure boards have the connectors on the front of the pib (mounted in back of APUREMs and new PureLinks). The User Interface is separate and mounted up front (in PureLinks they are mounted visibly next to the AquaLink pcb.
 
Cool Thanks Blaze
ìis it possible to jump and bypass the flow sensor which give consent to board to proceed with chlorination?
If possible this will solve all Jandy/Zodiac bad project errors and costing $ issues.
Please reply
Roberto fm Venice Italy
 

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