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Thread: Did Pool Co. close my pool right?

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    Did Pool Co. close my pool right?

    We recently had a pool build and finished construction mid July of this year. Per the contract the pool co. is responsible for the first closing etc. I worked with them to close the pool so I had an idea of how it was done. Basically what they did was hook up a compressor to a plug in the bottom of the Pentair pump and let it blow through every inlet and return. One by one they plugged each pipe penetration. Until everything was plugged and no more air escaping. And where they couldnt plug the inlets in the bottom of the pool they blew air until air was releasing from the bottom and closed the valve to air lock the pipe. They then removed all the heater plugs and sand filter plug and booster plug. Very little water was in the system at this point. I feel my pipes are safe, what I am worried about is the fact that they didnt drain the pool down. They said they have more problems with the weather freezing and cracking the plaster and also leaving a ring on the plaster when it comes time to open. I also have a sun self about 7 inches down. If I were to drain below the skimmers, it would leave this exposed all winter. I actually forced the guy to let me waste water to just above the plaster so the water was just on the tile accommodating rain. Everything I read here says the pool needs to be drained below the tile. I figure I will let it go this year since its there warranty and they will have to cover, but am I wrong in thinking it needs to be below the tile? Thanks in advance.
    21,500 Gunite Free Form ~ 18'X40', Sun Deck w/ foam jets auto valve, 3-Laminar Deck Jets w/ auto Valve, 1-Swim out, 3' to 8' deep, NPT Raku Tile
    All Sched 80 Pipe, Pentair Easy Touch control, Pentair pump and Sand Filter, Raypack Heater, White Plaster, Saline Chlorine Generation, Letro Platinum cleaner w/ booster

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    X-PertPool's Avatar
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    Jun 2009
    Exeter, PA

    Re: Did Pool Co. close my pool right?

    typically you don't want water freezing at the tile level. So by keeping the water level below the tile there isn't pressure being put on the tile. I think water usually freezes about 4-6 inches thick. If you have a safety cover the recommended water level is about 15" inches below the top of the pool for optimum performance of the cover.
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    22,000 gal / 16' x 32' / Vinyl / Hayward s244t /Pentair SuperFlo 1 hp

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    Join Date
    May 2007
    South Central NJ

    Re: Did Pool Co. close my pool right?

    Actually, with a gunite pool that has waterline tile, just below the tile line is best with a small, automatic pump on the step closest. If you have a swim out with a step, that is almost always the best spot.

    The more water a pool has in it, the less likely anything is to float, like the shell (F/G or gunite) or a liner.

    X-Pert is right in that most cover manufacturers allow up to 18" of air space between the cover and water level but that, IMHO, is lower that you want. It doesn't take a water table much higher than the pool level for issues to occur.

    Owner of - PoolGuyNJ LLC
    Expert Pool and Spa Repairs, Renovations, and Augmentation. Helping people decide what is the right gear for meeting their needs. Expectations Set, Expectations Met, No Surprises.

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