Installing New Check Valve

[dave2669]

Hey guys,

Need some input here. Due to my raised spa draining back into the pool each night, I'm fairly certain the check valve on the spa fill side is no longer doing its job. If I shut off the Jandy valve to the spa after the pump is off, it does not flow back into the pool, so I'm thinking the check valve is bad. My question is, do you think that I will have enough pvc left after removing the old one? I'll have about 3/4 of an inch left.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[JasonLion]

Yes, that should be enough to make a good connection, however there won't be enough room to do this again a second time. I would either move the check valve lower on the pipe or put in a check valve with a removable cover so you won't need to replace the entire thing again, or boht.

 

[daddybug]

If you can, replace it with a jandy check valve

 

[duraleigh]

Hi, Dave,

Welcome to the forum :lol: Yeah, I would do both as Jason suggests. You can buy a DWV (not sched 40) coupling that only needs about 3/4" to bottom out. Install that on top when you cut out the old valve and then you can add more PVC pipe to the top to lower the check valve down some for future removal.

Getting the Jandy Check valve will really solve the issue as it (as mentioned above) is repairable in place.

 

[X-PertPool]

Don't forget if you ever do run into trouble you could always just install a pipe extender... example

http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?produ ... -Extenders

they glue to the inside of the pipe with the other side of the fitting being the same outside diameter as standard 1.5" pvc.

 

[duraleigh]

I was not aware those extenders were available.....excellent post!! :lol:

 

[PoolGuyNJ]

Pipe extenders do make a slight constriction.

Do NOT use a DWV fitting. It would likely work but it isn't as strong.

Use a Schedule 40 coupling and Heavy bodied glue. Let it set up a couple hours before running the system.

Scott

 

[JamesW]

Another possible option is to cut off the street 90 flush with the outside of the 3-way Jandy valve and glue a regular 2-inch 90 on the outside of the valve.

 

[waste]

Welcome to TFP!!

Might I proffer another suggestion? Add the new check valve below the existing one and... just don't remove the original :idea: You have lots of room below the existing check valve and i don't see it hurting anything to leave the defective one in place.

In addition to pipe extenders (I still have a couple) there is a 'reaming' tool that fits on a drill to remove pipe from fittings, so the fittings can be reused (Spishex, Tim< turned me on too them a couple years ago - they DO work! - if you want me to find the thread with the link to where to get them, let me know )

 

[dave2669]

I really appreciate everyone's prompt replies. Very good advice. I am glad I found this forum and looking forward to being a regular on here. As my pool ages, this is going to be a huge resource. Thanks again! Dave

 

[JamesW]

One issue with only cutting into the straight part is that it will be difficult to get in a new valve because there won't be any flexibility. You could use a slip x slip union on both sides of the valve. That would make the valve replaceable later on. Using a 90 on the outside of the Jandy 3-way would also work because you would be able to pull the pipe back far enough to get the fitting on.

 

[waste]

James, about the time you were posting your post, I was thinking about being able to glue in the new check valve. My thought was that a union would be needed to make the final glued connection.

While there may be enough 'play' in the pipe to do the 90* - that pipe looks a little weathered and might not have the 'play' to play that game. A union (< $20) makes the install easier and ~ 'fool proof'.