Hayward H400IDL2 pool heater with service code SF

Nov 27, 2011
1
I have a Hayward H400IDL2 pool heater that has an error code of SF. I believe this is a bad temperature sensor. From what I have been able to figure out, there are 2 of these sensors, 1 for high temp & 1 for low temp. How can I figure out which one is bad? Is there some type of test to them that can be done, ex: resistance, voltage while running, etc. I have some electronics & electrical experience & have a DVM to check circuit problems. Thanks.
 
SF (Sensor Failure) indicates that the temperature sensor (thermistor) is not getting good data to the circuit board. Check the wiring. If the wiring is Ok and the error persists, replace the sensor. There is only one temperature sensor (IDXLTER1930). There are two Hi-limit sensors, but they are not involved.
idxlter1930.jpg

http://www.yourpoolhq.com/hayward-h-ser ... r1930.html

Here is Ignition Board (aka Integrated Control Board or circuit board) (IDXL2ICB1931) (Heaters built after 9/20/04)

You can see the three prong connection site for the thermistor.

http://www.poolpartsonline.com/popup.as ... ze%3dlarge

http://sospoolsupplies.com/hayward_inte ... mage/3424/

http://sospoolsupplies.com/heater_parts ... _171/3a/5/

http://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/Parts%2 ... %20NOx.pdf

http://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/Manual183.pdf

I'm not sure, but I think that you can test the thermistor according to this chart. I think that that thermistor might have two thermistors inside for extra reliability. It compares readings and throws an error code if the readings don't match or if the readings are "out-of-bounds".

https://shop.solardirect.com/pdf/pool-h ... -chart.pdf

I think that if you test resistance from black to one of the reds, the resistance in ohms should match the temperature of the thermistor. And, the resistance from black to the other red should match the first result.
 
I have a Hayward H250. This solution worked for me as well. turns out that the copper pipe to the water pressure switch was all corroded and it ended up leaking water which corroded the wiring of the thermistor. So I had to replace both the copper piping (Which comes with the pressure assembly) so replace that as well and the thermistor.
Biggest issue is that no manual tells you that the thermistor and the copper piping are only accessible if you take the 2 panels off on the right side (upper and lower) 7 screws total that are around the piping. They are in the manifold but are not exposed. The thermistor is kind of hidden but once you take those off, easy as pie.
No videos show this. Someone should make one. Total repair was about $180. Pool guy would have charged $500.
 
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