can I bypass the booster pump??

[midtngal]

Here's the latest dilemma... I have broken off a screw in the booster pump....so I need to open it up and see if I can get it out. But I don't have time to do this until after Thanksgiving. So I do need to have the pump running but can't at the moment because the booster pump is leaking. So, can I put a ball valve in that line and bypass the booster pump all together until I can get to it to repair??? Here's what I'm talking about......

I eagerly await your expert advice! :-D

TIA
Karen
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[spishex]

It's hard to tell but it looks like you have quick connect fittings on those lines. If that's the case you should pretty easily be able to disconnect one of the two lines from the booster pump, disconnect the opposite line from the plumbing, and then directly tie either single line from the "T" betweeen the multiport and salt generator cell to the cleaner's return line. There may be a retainer clip in place on the fittings (between the union-looking sleeve and the part that's threaded into the plumbing). Remove that clip, push and twist the sleeve down toward the plumbing and the hose should pull out.

 

[Bama Rambler]

Or you could put a valve in the line and just close it off. Whichever is easier. Or you could just disconnect the pipe form the main pump to the booster pump an plug it.

 

[midtngal]

Thanks Bama! That's what I'm talking about doing but wanted to make sure I wouldn't cause a bigger problem by doing that. Strangely enough...I'm not seeing any connection from the main pump to the booster pump which is what is confusing me as to why there is water through the booster when the main pump is on. So I will put in a ball valve on that line and shut it off and all will be okay, right?? :-D

spishex....thank you as well! Those aren't quick connectors...they ar threaded but into a reducer with a threaded core. Being my world and all...there's no way it could all be that simple! :lol:

Okay...so if the rain will just stop I could get this done!

Thanks bunches!
Karen

 

[CUTiger78]

Spishex & the Rambler are on point. Besides, you want a shutoff between the main pump and the booster pump. I assume the booster pump runs something like a pool cleaner that you can do without for some period of time (days, maybe). If that booster pump ever fails (kind of like now) and you need to service or replace the motor, you want to be able to shut off water to that pump while still using the main pump.

I have a similar setup and have just such an isolation valve. Kind of hard to belive the pool builder didn't put one in originally.

Good luck!

 

[spishex]

Your booster pump needs filtered water, so it's being fed from the "T" between the multiport and the chlorine generator. That's the line you'll need to put a valve on. You could put it in the middle of the line but it's pretty curled up so that may be hard to get glued properly. You might be better off utilizing the existing threads on either side so that the valve is connected to rigid plumbing on one end.

The other thing you could do (if the threads on the plumbing side are 3/4") is replace all the existing fittings with the aforementioned quick connectors. That would remove gluing from the equation and allow you to work in the rain if you chose, but it's probably easier to track down a valve locally.

 

[midtngal]

If ya'll knew the pool builder NOTHING would surprise you (it sure doesn't me!)!

@spishex..... I may at some point do some of the quick connectors like you're talking about but for now I just need the quickest way to shut this line off and I think that it is the valve. And I was able to find one at Lowe's last night but wanted to check myself before I went in and started cutting on this line.... :-D

I'll post pics when I can and show ya what I did.

Thanks for your help!
Karen

 

[midtngal]

Re: can I bypass the booster pump?? ***UPDATE***

Okay, so I have accomplished what I wanted/needed to have done!

spishex, you were correct in that the connection by the SWG cell would need plugging as well! After putting the ball valve in, I turned on the pump and of course here came the water. So....back to Lowe's for the plug. Now all is well and running perfectly (dare I say this for fear of jinxing it??? )

Kinda curious here....I have solar panels that I will install in the spring and have been mulling over where in the piping to break into for the T-valve. Looking at the pic...anybody have suggestions on where it would work the best??

Thanks for all your help!
Karen

 

[Bama Rambler]

The loop where the booster pump comes off looks like a good place to replumb and add the solar. Just break it at the salt cell union and the multiport union and replumb the solar in there.

 

[waste]

Karen, I'm sorry I wasn't there for you this time!!

Tim, nice to see you back (how's married life treating you?)

 

[midtngal]

Karen, I'm sorry I wasn't there for you this time!!

I KNOW!!! Where you been??? :lol:

 

[spishex]

Hey Ted! Nice to be back. All's well here. We were together for 8 years before getting married so it's a lot of the same stuff but with more talk about health insurance and financial planning.

Karen, you'll want to plumb the solar in after the filter and booster pump but before the salt cell, so that on that spot that Bama mentioned you'll want to plumb the solar valve in where the bottom 90 currently resides, and be sure the solar water returns to the system somewhere after the flow switch for the salt cell.