Replace Hayward SP1408 Inlets without deck removal?

[pdoran]

I recently purchased a home with an older swimming pool, but with somewhat new stamped cement deck.

One of the three returns is leaking at the inlet, so I ended up running the pool this summer with the leaky inlet capped off. When I closed down the pool this week, I noticed the other two inlets have threads that are looking very tired, with lots of small cracks in them. The previous owner had tried to putty the one that I sealed off.

I am planning to replace the liner in the spring, so am starting to think about what I should replace or fix while I have the liner out.

Is it possible to remove the inlets from the inside of the pool, without needing to cut or dig under the cement deck?

I can envision cutting it out with a dremel tool or something, but then not sure how I would be able to connect and seal a new one?

Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks,
Paul

 

[PoolGuyNJ]

Replacing the wall fitting requires access to the backside of the wall.

If digging under concrete, tunnels longer than four feet should have a wood support frame every few feet.
More than six feet, have a fan to gently blow fresh air in.
Make the tunnel bigger than you need for air and work space.
Remove all the dirt and gravel to the decking. Its really important that you prevent ceiling collapses.
Wear goggles when tunneling.
Use head lamps.
Never tunnel alone.

Scott

 

[Coffin Dodger]

Ive fixed a return from inside the pool once...pretty ghetto but the end result was excellent.

It involves cutting a 4 inch or so square out around the return in the pool wall (diamond blade in 4 inch grinder), clearing dirt out to get a clean cut on the return pipe, having a neighborhood kid "borrow" a street sign (rustproof?), cut a 6 inch square from sign, cut a hole in said sign for return fitting to fit into, secure the return fitting in hole, drill small rivet sized holes around sign and around square hole in wall for rivets, glue coupling onto return pipe in wall (cut pipe back about 12 inches first), then measure for a length of pipe that will reach from new return fitting to the return line so the chunk of sign the new fitting is in so it is all flush with the wall (VERY IMPORTANT to get the pipe length correct here, too short and it wont reach return line, too long the piece of sign wont be flush with wall). Do a dry run (no glue on pipe) first to see if it will fit properly. When you feel comfortable with your pipe length, glue it all together and make sure your rivet holes line up. Then, rivet that sucka in. You could also use rounded top screws instead of rivets I would imagine. When its all in, MAKE SURE you duct tape the edges of the piece of sign and then cover with wall foam. You will have to grind down any sharp parts on the sign and round off the corners.

I did this about 12 years ago and the pool is still going strong. You cant even tell any work has been done to the area unless you run your hand along the wall near the fitting. You will be able to feel the outline of the square if you push down while you are rubbing it. Other than that it looks like it used to.

Like I said, this is a serious ghetto fix, but if done right you can get at least 12 years like I have

 

[duraleigh]

Paul,

Welcome to the forum :lol: What tells you it's leaking? Is water getting behind the liner? Have you taken off the front cover to see what it looks like on the "pool side" of the fitting?

 

[pdoran]

All, thanks for the excellent feedback.

Coffin Dodger,
I really like your approach, especially the rivets. I started to visualize something like this, but was sure how I would attach the patch piece back to the wall. I have a Grecian Vinyl Imperial Pool from the 70's.

Any guess on what material it is made from?

I updated the epoxy on the cracked fitting to re-seal for now. I am going to pressure test it, as it might also be leaking in the line itself. If the line is leaking, then I need to dig... at least some. Rather than tunneling under the deck, I was thinking about hammering or sledge hammering a sharpened metal pipe from the old return hole to a hole right at the outer perimeter of the decking. I would imagine needing to hammer, remove and empty dirt, hammer, remove and empty dirt, etc, while crossing fingers that I do not hit a big rock, until I am through. If I get through, then I cut the coffin dodger hole, if no, then I dig with Scott's advice.

Thanks again.
Paul