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Thread: Pressure test and/or other steps before resurface & re-tile?

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    Pressure test and/or other steps before resurface & re-tile?

    Hi All-

    First post & first pool... My wife & I recently moved from Wisconsin to Fresno, CA & our new home has an in ground pool & spa built in the mid 1970s. Most of the equipment is original and still in working order. We'd like to resurface, re-tile and replace the equipment during the cooler months before the swimming season next year. We've narrowed down who we'll most likely use to refinish the pool and I'm planning on replumbing the equipment pad myself.

    We don't have any major leaks, but I'd like to find out everything that should be done prior to the refinish process. The pool is losing around a 1/4" of water per day, more if the water level is up around the missing & cracked tile. We also have a small leak at the sweep booster pump. Should we pressure test the plumbing before they start the tile and plaster work? Are there any other tests or maintenance items that should be done as well?



    I'm sure I'll have plenty more questions as I plan to replace the equipment. I'm going to have a few limitations as there is a single 1.5" pool skimmer/main drain line...


    25K Pebble, 2 Speed, DE Filter

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    Re: Pressure test and/or other steps before resurface & re-t

    Welcome to the forum It certainly is a great idea to check your pipes PRIOR to the remodel. It's not too often that you have underwater or underground leaks in the piping but you will probably find some around the exposed plumbing.

    1/4 inch daily can be attributed to normal evaporation but you don't say just how much more when the tile is covered.

    All in all, the pool looks well maintained for it's age and it sounds like you will have a beautiful, functional pool when you are finished.

    Are you going to resurface the pool floor and walls? Where do those copper pipes lead?
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    XsAllOverIt's Avatar
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    Re: Pressure test and/or other steps before resurface & re-t

    From a visual, the pool and equipment look awfully good for being 30-40 yrs old. It looks like it was well taken care of.
    18 x 36 Inground Gunnite, White Plaster 21K gallon
    18" raised spa, 8' Diameter (620 gallon)
    Triton II Sand filter, Intellichlor IC40 SWG
    Pentair Pump, Max-E-Therm 400 BTU
    Lamotte ColorQ PRO 7-Plus test kit
    TFT-100 test kit

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    Re: Pressure test and/or other steps before resurface & re-t

    Quote Originally Posted by duraleigh
    Welcome to the forum It certainly is a great idea to check your pipes PRIOR to the remodel. It's not too often that you have underwater or underground leaks in the piping but you will probably find some around the exposed plumbing.

    1/4 inch daily can be attributed to normal evaporation but you don't say just how much more when the tile is covered.

    All in all, the pool looks well maintained for it's age and it sounds like you will have a beautiful, functional pool when you are finished.

    Are you going to resurface the pool floor and walls? Where do those copper pipes lead?
    Thanks for the replies.

    Yes, we're going to resurface the floor & walls. At this point, I'm leaning towards Wet Edge Altima Blue or Mission Bay. I still need to research the darker colors and find out how well they hold up to fading, etc..

    The cracks and missing tile are towards the middle and upper portion of the tiles. I haven't done a ton of testing since we've only been in the house for a few weeks, but it can drop a 1/2" or more in a day or so if I fill the pool half to two thirds up the tiles. I should note I also noticed this during the weekend when our two small kids were also splashing for a couple of hours as well. Once the water levels drops below the cracks is when it drops around a 1/4" per 24 hours.


    BTW, the water is not green, there's a lot of staining on the plasters.



    There is copper from the pump intake through the filter and heater to the return valve. Everything else is PVC. The spa is not much of a spa. There is only one return (no jets). There is an old (working) blower that feeds a few small holes in the seat to create bubbles. Our plan is to abandon the heater and blower and keep the spa for the waterfall spillover and use it as a lounge area. I want to simplify the equipment pad and make it as efficient as possible. The position of the pipes coming out of the concrete and the 1.5" size is going to make it a little bit of a challenge.
    25K Pebble, 2 Speed, DE Filter

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    Re: Pressure test and/or other steps before resurface & re-t

    Well, that crack will be an issue. It appears that the tile was installed incorrectly by covering the joint between the pool walls and the pool decking.

    Those two surfaces are designed to move independently of each other on purpose and covering that joint with tile was/would be a mistake.

    You will have to rethink the design, caulk that joint with a good polyurethane, and install new tiles in such a way that they don't span that joint.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Re: Pressure test and/or other steps before resurface & re-t

    Quote Originally Posted by duraleigh
    Well, that crack will be an issue. It appears that the tile was installed incorrectly by covering the joint between the pool walls and the pool decking.

    Those two surfaces are designed to move independently of each other on purpose and covering that joint with tile was/would be a mistake.

    You will have to rethink the design, caulk that joint with a good polyurethane, and install new tiles in such a way that they don't span that joint.

    I think (hope) the tile picture is at a funky angle. The deck and walls appear to be poured separately. I was able to pull a chunk of concrete out of the worse spot of missing tiles. Does this help:
    25K Pebble, 2 Speed, DE Filter

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    Re: Pressure test and/or other steps before resurface & re-t

    It appears to me you have a horizontal crack that is following a "cold" joint where the two sections of masonry were poured at different times. You cannot span that joint with any masonry work because the two sides move independently of one another.

    Rather than guessing at photographs, I would suggest you get a tile man out to confirm that joint exists and what his suggestions are.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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