The timers on my filter pump and booster pump got off schedule so my booster pump ran by itself for several hours. It is now leaking water into the bracket. Anyone have experience to guess what are the most probably parts I need to replace? It still works but I want to fix the leak so I need to take it apart and check it. However, I've read that if I take the pump apart I have to replace the seal. I don't want to take it apart to learn I need a new impeller, replace the seal so I can put it back together and run it while I wait for my new part to arrive in the mail, then take it apart again to replace the impeller and have to replace the seal again.
Booster Pump Leak
- Thread starter DIYconvert
- Start date
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
P55 Seal, Stainless Steel Cup/Spring
P95 O-Ring, Bracket
P40 O-Ring for Shaft
The impeller rarely goes bad. You can turn the shaft from the back to see if it turns smoothly. If it turns smoothly, then the impeller is most likely OK. Even if the impeller is bad, taking the pump apart is not that big of a deal and most pool stores will have the impeller in stock. You will pay more locally than from the internet, but you will get it immediately and be done.
If the pump overheated, then the fittings going into and out of the pump are likely to be compromised and they should be checked.
Tip: While you have the pump apart, drill out the small drain hole in the bracket to a larger hole (about 1/4-inch).
You could use a dual timer to operate the filter pump and the booster pump so that the timers don't get out of sync.
http://www.poolcenter.com/timers_automation.htm
http://www.clubp.info/pdf/TL/P-134.pdf
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRjzEZFyNi0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yx9DTaxjwxs
P95 O-Ring, Bracket
P40 O-Ring for Shaft
The impeller rarely goes bad. You can turn the shaft from the back to see if it turns smoothly. If it turns smoothly, then the impeller is most likely OK. Even if the impeller is bad, taking the pump apart is not that big of a deal and most pool stores will have the impeller in stock. You will pay more locally than from the internet, but you will get it immediately and be done.
If the pump overheated, then the fittings going into and out of the pump are likely to be compromised and they should be checked.
Tip: While you have the pump apart, drill out the small drain hole in the bracket to a larger hole (about 1/4-inch).
You could use a dual timer to operate the filter pump and the booster pump so that the timers don't get out of sync.
http://www.poolcenter.com/timers_automation.htm
http://www.clubp.info/pdf/TL/P-134.pdf
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRjzEZFyNi0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yx9DTaxjwxs
- Jul 30, 2007
- 70
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Thanks, James. Great write up and links. So, I should just go ahead and order and replace the seals but be prepared to run down to the store and get an impeller if it looks warped after I take it apart. (I hate paying the inflated price at the local store; however this sounds like a good strategy.) You are recommending I go ahead and get a complete go kit (http://www.poolcenter.com/gokit71.jpg) and replace the O rings too? The pump is fairly new (about a year old) so I would only consider replacing the O rings if the overheating could have compromised them in addition to the seals.
I've considered replacing my mechanical timers with a new dual electronic timer; however they aren't cheap. I could replace the booster pump a couple of times for the cost of the electonic timer.
Good tip on enlarging the bracket drain hole. I'm guessing the reason my bracket stays full of water is that the drain hole (that I didn't know existed) is probably clogged.
Again, thanks for the timely and complete response!
I've considered replacing my mechanical timers with a new dual electronic timer; however they aren't cheap. I could replace the booster pump a couple of times for the cost of the electonic timer.
Good tip on enlarging the bracket drain hole. I'm guessing the reason my bracket stays full of water is that the drain hole (that I didn't know existed) is probably clogged.
Again, thanks for the timely and complete response!
If its a PB4 booster, the likely suspects are the seal set. If it ran dry for an extended period, the impeller too.
Scott
Scott
It's best to change out the O-rings. The go kit is fine. The impeller is about $20, so it's up to you if you want to have one on hand, if needed.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.