Heat Pump Install Questions

Oct 10, 2011
140
I just got a Gulf Stream GS 1000 Heat Pump and I have a few questions regarding the instal and operation of the unit. I am new to the pool thing as of this July when we installed our first pool. Its a 27 round 52 inch Aqua Leader pool. Holds about 17000 gal. The GS 1000 is a 113500 BTU unit. I live in Raleigh NC where the typical temperatures this time of year are daytime 70 to 80 deg F and nights are 45 to 60 deg F.

My questions are as follows:

1- I plan to install the heat pump so that it can be removed from the system and bypassed while installed if desired. If in the summer I do not wish to run the heater should I bypass it with water flow or just let the water flow through the unit while it is off? Does it matter one way or the other?

2- Is it standard for heat pumps to have flow detection devices that turn off the heater when flow stops automatically. The reason I ask is I have my pump set up on a timer to run 14 houres a day and wondering if I need to do something to automate the heater as well or if I can rely on the built in flow switch and thermostat for the heater operation.

3- What should I expect out of the heater this time of year? How much temp rise per day should be expected and should I even run the heater at night if the temps are going below 50 deg F? I have purchased a solar cover to keep the heat in at night and when not in use. I will close the pool down as soon as we stop having 70 degree days but I suree would like to get it back to swimmable temps before then. The water is about 65 now. BURRRR! If any of you with experience with heat pumps could give me some idea of what to expect or offer any suggestions I sure would be greatful!

Thanks for any and all advice!
Jim
 
Heat pumps are better in some areas than others. Understanding that they use atmospheric temps to help create heat is beneficial. The lower the temps is outside the least amount of heat they will produce.

As for your bypass question, it's like asking if you like Pepsi or Coke. Some will say use the bypass and some will say it doesn't matter. If your chemicals are spot on then you shouldn't have any issue letting water thru the unit all year round. It's when chemicals are not right that units get eaten up.

Heaters should not run unless they have water flow. They do have a built in pressure switch and if there is no pressure the heater should turn off.

I do gas heaters so I am biased on pool heating questions. If you really want to swim longer into the end of the year or open sooner, a gas pool heater is the way to go. Again, I am biased on pool heating.
 
I appreciate the info. If gas IS the way to go then I have made a large mistake since I already own this heat pump. The reason I did go with the heat pump was I do live in a mild climate and there are many here who have heat pump systems in their home as well. I understand that gas is like instant gratification for heat but I also understand that gas is quite a bit more costly to operate so I am told. I dont know this from experience. I have owned heat pump systems in homes in the past and they work fine in this area. They are not like gas heat though that gives you an instant warm up with that hot air at the register. Im interested to know how long it may take for this heater to bring my pool up to heat though.
 
As ps0303 said, some people plumb a bypass, some don't. I don't bother, but it can get you a small efficiency advantage. All heat pumps sense either flow or pressure and turn off when they don't detect one or the other. The one thing to watch out for is that some bypass setups leave the heater connected on one side, and that can trigger the pressure switches and make the unit think it has flow when it doesn't.

You will get much more temperature increase if you use a solar cover than if you don't. I don't think you will be happy without a solar cover. With a solar cover you should be fine.
 
Thanks for the input. I put in a shut off valve at the water in and the water out unions of the heat pump. I also have a straight bypass piped in between these two lines with a shutoff valve in the line. I can take the heat pump out of the system and still have the system running without the pump if it needs repair. OR i can run the pump without water going through the heat exchanger. I dont know that it is necesary to do that or not when not heating but the unit does have a titanium exchanger so probably not.

I did have to order some specific unions that the manufacturer uses and I could not find anywhere else and am stuck waiting on UPS to deliver them. As luck would have it they are scheduled to arive tuesday when our temps are going to drop to daytime highs in the mid 60's so I guess I will see what this GS 1000 is made of. I will be pleased if it produces heat well at those temps.

JasonLion said:
As ps0303 said, some people plumb a bypass, some don't. I don't bother, but it can get you a small efficiency advantage. All heat pumps sense either flow or pressure and turn off when they don't detect one or the other. The one thing to watch out for is that some bypass setups leave the heater connected on one side, and that can trigger the pressure switches and make the unit think it has flow when it doesn't.

You will get much more temperature increase if you use a solar cover than if you don't. I don't think you will be happy without a solar cover. With a solar cover you should be fine.
 
Well I did get the Gulf Stream up and running yesterday afternoon about 3 PM. The water temp was 60 in the pool and the air temp was around 78 and falling. The overnight temps were going to the low to mid 60 area so I ran the heater all night and just now I checked the water temp and it is 73. I think that is respectable for the temps it has to work with. Im pleased. Thanks for all the input.
 
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