Newbie Green Algae

Hi Everyone! I am new to this forum and new to maintaining pools. I live in South Mississippi and I hope not to ask too many 'basic' questions. I have been reading over all info posted on basic pool chemistry and the correct way to ask a question. Please bear with me!

Q1. My pool is green! The pump has not run for at least a month now. I saw the section on getting rid of the algae and that I need test results before I begin. Do I just take a sample from the standing pool water or is it better to run the pump and then get the water sample for my local pool store? I am sure there are no chemicals in the pool.

Q2. My Hayward Sand Pump Filter's pressure gauge is busted. Can I just unscrew it and replace it with a new gauge?

I have no further questions right now, but I need lots of help. Thank you in advance for your patience everyone! :-D
 
First, order up a proper test kit.

Then replace the pressure gauge. Yes, it just unscrews, it's standard pipe threads. Use teflon tape like you would with any plumbing repair. Do not overtighten it or you may crack the filter housing.

I would get the water circulating some before testing. Even just an hour with a little brushing will do it. If you have had any rain, you may have some stratification. Don't be too sure you have nothing in the water; if it was ever chlorinated with pucks, you probably have CYA. In fact, there's a very good chance you will have too much CYA. And if you do, you'll need to drain off some water and refill before you can shock the algae. So test before you start dumping expensive chemicals in the pool!

It's good you've been reading; re-read the sections on ridding algae and shocking. You'll see that it's necessary to test often during the process, and for that, you need your own test kit. My recommendation is a TF100 with XL option and speedstir. It will pay for itself in well under a year. Maybe even in one visit to the pool store!
 
In the beginning of the month we had a tropical storm come thru and so the pool wouldn't over flow, I drained the water out below the skimmer-otherwise I am standing outside w/ my umbrella turning it to waste every few hours. I did refill with water and initially tried to rid myself of the algae w/ chlorine granules diluted in a bucket of water.

Do you have a link for this test kit?
 
Okay, I had the water tested at my local pool store today. I tried to upload the picture, but I cannot.

Here we go:

Total Chlorine 0.0
Free Chlorine 0.0
pH 7.1
Total Alkalinity 90
Calcium Hardness 250
Stabilizer 30
Shock Treatment 0.0

*I am still confused about the CYA level, can someone give me direction?
 
I am still confused about the CYA level, can someone give me direction?
From "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" in Pool School....

Cyanuric acid, often called stabilizer or conditioner, both protects FC from sunlight and lowers the effective strength of the FC (by holding some of the FC in reserve). The higher your CYA level, the more FC you need to use to get the same effect. It is important to know your CYA level so you can figure out what FC level to aim for. If you don't have a SWG or problems from extremely high amounts of sunlight, CYA is typically kept between 30 and 50. If you have a SWG or very high levels of direct sunlight, CYA is typically kept between 70 and 80. If you are using an ORP controller, keep CYA below 50.

You increase CYA by adding cyanuric acid, often sold as stabilizer or conditioner. CYA is available as a solid and as a liquid. The liquid costs a lot more, and generally isn't worth the extra expense. Solid stabilizer can take up to a week to fully register on the test, so don't retest your CYA level for a week after adding some. Solid stabilizer is best added by placing it in a sock in the skimmer basket. The pump should be run for 24 hours after adding solid stabilizer and you should avoid backwashing/cleaning the filter for a week.
 
aubie3223 said:
Okay, I had the water tested at my local pool store today. I tried to upload the picture, but I cannot.

Here we go:

Total Chlorine 0.0
Free Chlorine 0.0
pH 7.1
Total Alkalinity 90
Calcium Hardness 250
Stabilizer 30
Shock Treatment 0.0

*I am still confused about the CYA level, can someone give me direction?
Assuming CYA is correct (50-50 at best), that's right where you want it to be for shocking. pH is also good for shocking. Ignore everything else until you're done shocking.

Done shocking means: the water is clear, CC is .5 or less, and you lose less than 1 ppm FC overnight. Your own test kit will be a real help with those last two. Once the shock process is through, the rest of it is easy to fix.
 
The pool print out recommended 4lbs of chlorine, algaecide, 6lbs alkalinity, then flock & clear over the course of 2 - 3 days. I have used flock and clear only once and I HATED it. What an annoying product, I was doing a better job ridding myself of algae dust w/out it......
 
Trying to mix pool store advice with the advice here on the forum often leads to confusion, frustration and a murky pool. You should pick one source......it'll save you a lot of confusion.

You don't need floc and you don't need algaecide and you don't need the "granulated" chlorine. You only need bleach.

Have you found the pool calculator? A link is in my sig and it will tell you the dosages you need to clear your pool. It looks a little intimidating at first but we'll all help get you on the right track. Post back questions.
 

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I was just venting my frustrations in regards to pool store advice. They see me bring in my water sample and think, oh a female-lets sell her everything we can!

Pool Calculator is intimidating......So I enter my current results and what the minimum or maxium I should have in the pool?
 
aubie3223 said:
Okay, I see that w/ my CYA level at 30 I want to shock my pool to an FC level of 12.....so when I enter this in the pool calculator I should put 4 gallons or 5.2 (96 oz jugs).....6 % bleach
Yep, you are correct :goodjob: That will raise your FC from zero to 12ppm.

Continue to maintain shock level until you meet the three criteria to be done shocking - see red lines in my sig.
 
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