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Thread: Best way to remove brass anchors for cover

  1. #1
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    Best way to remove brass anchors for cover

    A few of my anchors (http://www.poolcenter.com/brassanchor1.jpg) are missing, others dont stay down. Brand new ones that screw in (versus spring loaded lock in place) are only $4 ea. Problem is, what the best way to extract the shell from the concrete without doing too much damage? I dont want to just replace the pop up part but the whole thing.

    tia....kevin
    16x32 Concrete IG, 20+ years old and going strong
    Equipment: DE Filter, Jandy Gas Heater, Solar Panels, 1hp Hayward Pump with 3/4 HP AO Smith 2 Speed Replacement Motor, Aquarite SWG
    Automation: Pentair Suntouch controller w/solar valve
    Cleaners: Polaris 280 (replaced an Aquabot)

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    Re: Best way to remove brass anchors for cover

    Quote Originally Posted by kevreh
    A few of my anchors (http://www.poolcenter.com/brassanchor1.jpg) are missing, others dont stay down. Brand new ones that screw in (versus spring loaded lock in place) are only $4 ea. Problem is, what the best way to extract the shell from the concrete without doing too much damage? I dont want to just replace the pop up part but the whole thing.

    tia....kevin
    why replace the hole thing? i think trying to get the old one out might do more harm then good and the new one might not "stick" in the concrete as well? so if the old ones are holding i would keep them in.
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  3. #3
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    Re: Best way to remove brass anchors for cover

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeginder
    Quote Originally Posted by kevreh
    A few of my anchors (http://www.poolcenter.com/brassanchor1.jpg) are missing, others dont stay down. Brand new ones that screw in (versus spring loaded lock in place) are only $4 ea. Problem is, what the best way to extract the shell from the concrete without doing too much damage? I dont want to just replace the pop up part but the whole thing.

    tia....kevin
    why replace the hole thing? i think trying to get the old one out might do more harm then good and the new one might not "stick" in the concrete as well? so if the old ones are holding i would keep them in.
    The picture you posted have to have a hole drilled into the concrete and then driven down into the hole. I have this type with my Loop Lock safety cover and they work fine and have never had problem with them coming out of the concrete since they were properly installed. There is no way the anchor part that screws down into the base could come out unless the threads are stripped off.
    Tom

    18 x 36 Grecian Polynesian Fiberglass Walls with Concrete bottom - 3 ft to 9 1/2 ft. deep -
    Hayward Variable Speed Super Pump SP2600VS 1 1/2 True HP,Hayward sand filter S200, and Hayward auto clorinator. Hayward 250,000 natural gas heater. PoolKeeper automatic water leveler. Loop Loc Ultra Solid Safety Cover. Hayward Color Logic 12 volt light. Dual Pool Deck Jets.
    Polaris 380 auto cleaner. Trouble Free Test Kit TF-100.

  4. #4
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    Re: Best way to remove brass anchors for cover

    I had to pull a damaged one a couple of years ago. I rigged an anchor onto my slide hammer and tapped it out of the deck pretty easily.
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  5. #5
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    Re: Best way to remove brass anchors for cover

    Good idea. I will have to remember that just in case I ever need to have one of my anchors removed. I had someone install my loop lock cover but after watching them, I could have done it myself. The only problem I would have had was taking so long because I am slow and particular.

    Thanks for tip. This will be my first winter with the safety cover. I have noticed that when it rains the anchors get water in them. I hope this does not prove out to damage them when the water freezes. I guess the manufacturer of the anchors has not had any complaints though.
    Tom

    18 x 36 Grecian Polynesian Fiberglass Walls with Concrete bottom - 3 ft to 9 1/2 ft. deep -
    Hayward Variable Speed Super Pump SP2600VS 1 1/2 True HP,Hayward sand filter S200, and Hayward auto clorinator. Hayward 250,000 natural gas heater. PoolKeeper automatic water leveler. Loop Loc Ultra Solid Safety Cover. Hayward Color Logic 12 volt light. Dual Pool Deck Jets.
    Polaris 380 auto cleaner. Trouble Free Test Kit TF-100.

  6. #6
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    Re: Best way to remove brass anchors for cover

    Quote Originally Posted by TGMcCallie
    The picture you posted have to have a hole drilled into the concrete and then driven down into the hole. I have this type with my Loop Lock safety cover and they work fine and have never had problem with them coming out of the concrete since they were properly installed. There is no way the anchor part that screws down into the base could come out unless the threads are stripped off.
    Your right, that's the wrong type, I pasted a link to the one I *want to get*. I have the kind that is spring loaded that you push down and turn. What happens is that the anchor gets worn (my pool is ~25 years old) and the anchors dont stay down. From what I've been told if the anchor is new and sleave is old it still may not hold.

    For $5 an anchor and some sweat equity I'd rather just replace them, if possible without damaging the concrete.
    16x32 Concrete IG, 20+ years old and going strong
    Equipment: DE Filter, Jandy Gas Heater, Solar Panels, 1hp Hayward Pump with 3/4 HP AO Smith 2 Speed Replacement Motor, Aquarite SWG
    Automation: Pentair Suntouch controller w/solar valve
    Cleaners: Polaris 280 (replaced an Aquabot)

  7. #7
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    Re: Best way to remove brass anchors for cover

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeginder
    Quote Originally Posted by kevreh
    A few of my anchors (http://www.poolcenter.com/brassanchor1.jpg) are missing, others dont stay down. Brand new ones that screw in (versus spring loaded lock in place) are only $4 ea. Problem is, what the best way to extract the shell from the concrete without doing too much damage? I dont want to just replace the pop up part but the whole thing.

    tia....kevin
    why replace the hole thing? i think trying to get the old one out might do more harm then good and the new one might not "stick" in the concrete as well? so if the old ones are holding i would keep them in.
    Not worried about the new one not sticking....if I need to I'll use an epoxy used with concrete to hold them. See my above reply about the issue of leaving the old sleeve in.
    16x32 Concrete IG, 20+ years old and going strong
    Equipment: DE Filter, Jandy Gas Heater, Solar Panels, 1hp Hayward Pump with 3/4 HP AO Smith 2 Speed Replacement Motor, Aquarite SWG
    Automation: Pentair Suntouch controller w/solar valve
    Cleaners: Polaris 280 (replaced an Aquabot)

  8. #8
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    Re: Best way to remove brass anchors for cover

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnT
    I had to pull a damaged one a couple of years ago. I rigged an anchor onto my slide hammer and tapped it out of the deck pretty easily.

    Good idea, only works though if the anchor isn't stripped. BTW, I guess there's a kit just for the purpose of removing anchors....cost prohibitive though at $160. http://www.poolcenter.com/Winter_mesh_c ... sories.htm.

    The guy at the pool supply place I go to said some people use a threader, then screw in a bolt, then remove it. Sounds tedious but may only take a few minutes.
    16x32 Concrete IG, 20+ years old and going strong
    Equipment: DE Filter, Jandy Gas Heater, Solar Panels, 1hp Hayward Pump with 3/4 HP AO Smith 2 Speed Replacement Motor, Aquarite SWG
    Automation: Pentair Suntouch controller w/solar valve
    Cleaners: Polaris 280 (replaced an Aquabot)

  9. #9
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    Re: Best way to remove brass anchors for cover

    You need a hole 3/4 inch in diameter and 2 1/4 inches deep to accomodate the screw in type (Loop-Loc) anchor that you pictured. If you hole is smaller than that now you will just need to redrill it to above specs. The anchoring epoxy you refer to will be a good idea to use unless you need to get them out later and that may prove impossible. Use a 3/4 inch concrete drill and measure 2 1/4 inches from the tip and make you a white paint mark so you can get them all the correct depth.

    Tom
    Tom

    18 x 36 Grecian Polynesian Fiberglass Walls with Concrete bottom - 3 ft to 9 1/2 ft. deep -
    Hayward Variable Speed Super Pump SP2600VS 1 1/2 True HP,Hayward sand filter S200, and Hayward auto clorinator. Hayward 250,000 natural gas heater. PoolKeeper automatic water leveler. Loop Loc Ultra Solid Safety Cover. Hayward Color Logic 12 volt light. Dual Pool Deck Jets.
    Polaris 380 auto cleaner. Trouble Free Test Kit TF-100.

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