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Thread: OCLT Question

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Central Florida
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    OCLT Question

    I'm continuing to post updates on my other thread but I have a quick question.

    We are getting close to finishing the shock process. When I get home from work, I plan to test FC and add any needed chlorine. How long do I need to wait before re-testing FC for purposes of the OCLT test? Pool School says at least 30 minutes. Is anything longer than that and dark out OK?

    Once we pass the test, do we then allow FC to dissapate until it nears our target of 7 for CYA of 60 before running a new full set of tests?
    21,000 gallon Diamond Brite Blue, Hayward Star Clear Plus 1200 Cartridge filter, Polaris 280, TF-100 Test Kit.

  2. Back To Top    #2
    linen's Avatar
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    Jul 2010
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    Twin Cities, MN
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    Re: OCLT Question

    I usually wait an hour, it depends how much circulation you have. Having it be dark when you are testing is optimal since there is no UV on the water to reduce FC. Also, make sure you test in the morning before the sun hits the pool.

    Make sure you pass all three "done shocking" criteria (see my sig), but then allow FC to drop to 5-9 level (used poolcalculator, do not let it drop below 5 if you can help it). Then you should start regular daily and weekly testing...not sure of what you meant by "running a new full set of tests".

    Good luck on the OCLT!
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Central Florida
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    Re: OCLT Question

    Quote Originally Posted by linen
    I usually wait an hour, it depends how much circulation you have. Having it be dark when you are testing is optimal since there is no UV on the water to reduce FC. Also, make sure you test in the morning before the sun hits the pool.

    Make sure you pass all three "done shocking" criteria (see my sig), but then allow FC to drop to 5-9 level (used poolcalculator, do not let it drop below 5 if you can help it). Then you should start regular daily and weekly testing...not sure of what you meant by "running a new full set of tests".

    Good luck on the OCLT!
    Thanks. I'm running a fairly high FC rate due to the CYA of 70. By new full set of tests I guess I meant pH, TA, etc. We've only been checking FC since starting the shocking. We went with limited pump use for about a week and in FL that's not good. When we received our test kit, pH was pretty high and we used the pool calculator to add MA. We never checked pH after that to confirm because we immediately started the shocking process.
    21,000 gallon Diamond Brite Blue, Hayward Star Clear Plus 1200 Cartridge filter, Polaris 280, TF-100 Test Kit.

  4. Back To Top    #4
    linen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    8,649

    Re: OCLT Question

    ph should be the only test affected by high FC. Above 10 ppm FC, pH testing typically reads higher than it would be once FC is below 10 ppm. However, there is no harm in waiting to test the rest until the FC has dropped.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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