MY INGROUND SALTWATER POOL IS LOOKING LIKE A LAKE -- GREEEEN

randyb63

0
LifeTime Supporter
Sep 13, 2011
31
VA Beach
Hello all....1st post - be gentle.

Background...Hurricane Irene...9 inches rain...dumped it twice (instead of using "waste" used rinse)...pool filled back up with additional rain...lost power for 48 hrs. 1st stage...clouding...so I vacuumed w/hose/pole kit...good for about a day...next day...cloudier...and so on and so forth...until I came home from work Monday of last week and it was green...I rent this home and got little guidance so it is only recently that I got an education...this has consumed me and depressed me too. So many questions. I realize now that one of my mistakes was 1) draining the pool took my chemical balance too, 2) the rain didn't help much, 3) I backwash too frequently (top mount sand filter) and 4) at the first sign of cloud I should have taken the sample to the corner and found out the problem...and most likely needed to adjust the chlorine and pH. History...pump/filter/SWG run 24/7...and I haven't had a problem...ran it from August to last week non-stop...including winter...separate issue to tackle after this fix.

30K/inground vinyl w/saltwater chlorine generator (HAYWARD Swimpure Plus)/HAYWARD PRO Series sand filter...don't have specific pump HP/filter tank size...can get if necessary.

I work 12 hour days and cannot be at home as much as I'd like to in order to get it under control...build that into the equation...not to mention I'm at the top of my budget and cannot waste money on chemicals that don't work/are not the right prescription for the illness.

Readings from yesterday...
Chlorine - total chlorine - .7, free chlorine - 0.0
pH - 7.7
Alkalinity - 190
Hardness - 100
Cyanuric Acid (AKA stabilizer) - 0
Sand filter
What are Borates?

Major concerns...1) is my pump filter going to live? I backwashed the heck out of it after trying to clear things up and vacuum...it started blowing green algae back into the pool so I just shut it off for the past 48 hrs...should I back wash once more and empty the container (per owner manual instruction) and take off top 1" of sand and replace? 2) if alive, should I wait until i have killed the algae to run it again? The pressure comes up after a while...and I don't want to damage anything (yes about 8psi more)...3) I've seen where I need to keep the SWG turned off...I did that after I found out it was a good idea given calcium concern...and I think I have determined how to clean the cell...4) I don't want to run the entire filtering/generating system when it will damage it so need guidance. I added 8lbs of AquaChem Shock w/dichlor in it...(again - I was clueless)...so now you have a heck of a lot...

I think that is it. I just want to make this as simple as possible for each step...I know how to follow directions. Besides wanting to know the amount/type of shock to use and the procedure...I have read a lot of the posts...I'm overwhelmed here. I'd like to preclude damaging the vinyl and costing me more $$$$$ than needed.

Thanks for any assistance. WR/randyb63
 
Re: MY INGROUND SALTWATER POOL IS LOOKING LIKE A LAKE -- GRE

Is your pool pump running now?? If not get it up and going. You won't be able to clean it up without filtering the water.

Step 1
Read pool school over and over. Mostly the section on shocking your pool.

Step 2
Post back what test kit or strips you have

Step 3
Read pool school again

Step 4
Buy liquid bleach from walmart. I'd suggest at least 10 gallons.

Step 5
Wait for further directions. In the mean time, read pool school. :)

Your CYA is listed as zero. Is this number correct?? Have you ever added stabilizer or used the chlorine pucks? Unless you drained your pool this number is suspect. We need this number to advice you on the FC level you need to reach for shocking. You can turn off the SWG for now as it won't keep up with the shocking process. I promise you.....follow this sites advice and your pool will sparkle soon. I promise you.
 
Re: MY INGROUND SALTWATER POOL IS LOOKING LIKE A LAKE -- GRE

Randy click on the user control panel and create a signature that will display on every post. Put info about your pool including the size of the pool in gallons, pump size and filter info as best you can. It will help people answer your questions.

Don't worry about borates for now, it's an optional thing you can consider after you get the problems solved.

If your cya is really 0 that is why you can't maintain FC. Just answer peoples questions as best you can and and you will get to a sparkling oasis. If you don't have a good test kit you will need get one asap. It will be the best investment you can make for your pool and will pay for itself in no time by not wasting money on chemicals you don't really need. I use the TFT-100. You might want to consider the XL option since the pool is green. I purchased the speedstir and am glad i did but you can get by without it if the money is an issue.

You are in good hands here just dont try to follow half of the info you get here and half of what you get at the pool store. That won't work.
 
Re: MY INGROUND SALTWATER POOL IS LOOKING LIKE A LAKE -- GRE

Leebo and Dalandlord – thank you and copy all...went to Pool School school today (as best I could with work)...played with the calculator...worked liquid bleach angle (i.e. ounces, strengths, amounts, etc). I figured out what Leebo is saying...10 gallons over a period of 4-5 days and not all at once. I also found the mixing method from one of the posts...1 jug bleach into 6gal bucket, adding 3 jugs pool water (IOW 1 part bleach to equal parts pool water and poor into pool – slowly – and in front the eye so as to push it to middle of pool). If this differs from your experience speak up.

Based on my reading and your guidance (BTW, I will not mess with the pool supply on corner for chemicals or otherwise unless desperate...they are not real well informed – so I have learned from the nuances of the details in the posts – not to mention $$$)...anyhow...

COA thoughts - Because the skimmer is above the waterline right now, and waterline is above wall returns, 1) I intend to leave vacuum hose in skimmer hook up and suspend the vacuum brush in the water to keep it off the bottom of pool in the algae, 2) I am going to backwash the sand filter per the user’s manual of 2 minutes, and rinse for 1 or until glass is clear (has been turned off out of concern that I’d be gone and blow it up while at work due to over pressuring), 3) once clear and I have circulation/PSI is in the normal range (not 8-10 above), I will distribute the liquid bleach...enough per the pool calculator (set to TFP guidelines for vinyl/salt) – which BTW is as follows:

ACTION
COA 1 - 2 gal, 2 qts (317 oz) of 6% or 1.7 182 oz jugs (thus Leebo’s recommendation for 10 gals – assuming for use in shocking over 4-5 days or did you mean all at once?)
RESULT
COA 1 – Raise Free Chlorine to 5.0 and Salt to 8.2 (don’t recall what this matches with – alkalinity/stabilizer?)

ACTION
COA 2 - 1 gal, 2 qts (190 oz) of 10% or 1.5 128 oz jugs (hard to find 10% here in VA Beach but I’ll look)
RESULT
COA 2 – Raise Free Chlorine to 4.9 and Salt to 8

- How much is too much in one application?

I see that 400 oz (3.125 gal) of 6% will raise FC by 6.3 and Salt by 10
Likewise...444 oz (3.552 gal) of 6% will raise FC by 7.0 and Salt by 12

-- Questions…
- Before I do the shocking should I lower my pH level first? Get it to 7.2 or lower?
- How much is too much salt under my circumstances?
- Based on my readings below, how much liquid bleach is too much for liner, and other areas to be cautious of (i.e. pH level too high and how to fix)
- I intend to wait with shock process until I hear back.
-- Comments…
- I have added stabilizer, pH down before...but no pucks...I just followed their recommendation based on a sample reading...it was just fine with the SWG running 24/7 and filter with it until Hurricane Irene and all the rain.
- I will hold off until I hear from you...as Leebo recommends.
- Like I stated in post, I drained off about 8 inches altogether and rain from Hurricane Irene filled it back up...2 problems there.
- I will order the test kit tonight and use the pool store until it arrives.

MY READINGS AGAIN
Chlorine - total chlorine - 0.7//Free Chlorine - 0.0
pH - 7.7
Alkalinity - 190
Hardness - 100
Cyanuric Acid (AKA stabilizer) - 0
Sand filter

Cool weather anticipated tonight again...60s (mid-80s tomorrow during day) and a high of mid-60s Friday through weekend / early next week...an advantage?

Thanks again.

Randyb63
 
Re: MY INGROUND SALTWATER POOL IS LOOKING LIKE A LAKE -- GRE

My coarse of action would be as follows. If anybody else reads this please chime in as I am still a newb with chlorine.

Step 1.....Order the TF-100 with the XL option. This is around a $75 purchase, however I promise you once you get into the rhythm and used to testing and giving the pool just what it needs it will save you money. An auto mech. wouldn't use a set of tools purchased from Wal-Mart to fix your car.....nor should you use a set of test strips purchased from there to fix your pool.

Step 2.....Fill the pool to allow the skimmer to work. I don't see why using the brush would hurt anything for now, but you're going to want to fill it ASAP.

Step 3.....Lower the PH to around 7.2 then forget about it until it's clear.

Step 4.....You will add enough bleach to bring your FC level up to a level of 10 given your CYA level. Using the pool calculator that's going to equal around 3.5 182oz jugs. This may seem like a TON, however it's really not. Bleach doesn't pack as much punch as the other forms, but dollar for dollar it's often the cheapest. To give you another choice, you could also use 58oz of Calcium Hypochlorite or around 3.5 pounds. Either way you're end FC level will be around 10. This is where the killing will start......

Step 5.....Keep your Free Chlorine level at or around 10. Test as often as once an hour if you can. If your FC level drops down to 3....and enough chlorine to bump it back up to 10. Keep the chlorine level at or around 10. This will kill all the algae in your pool, and will lower the TC levels in a few days. This is also where having a good test kit will help you leaps and bounds! Being able to accurately test your own water as often as you wish and adjust using the pool calculator whenever needed.

Step 6.....Keep shocking the pool until
CC is 0.5 or lower;
An overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less;
And the water is clear.

I hope this explains the process better to you and if you've got any questions please ask away. Taking care of your own pool is intimidating at first, but after a few times it becomes a snap. Until you get the test kit I wouldn't start shocking. They have very quick shipping, and it should be at your house by monday at the latest if ordered today or tomorrow. Until then maybe just add 2 jugs of bleach each night before bed. This should raise your FC to around 6 and at least slow down the algae spread. With the cooler weather next week, it should allow you to be cozy working outside as opposed to the heat....plus keep some of your chlorine in the pool as opposed to evaporation.
 
Re: MY INGROUND SALTWATER POOL IS LOOKING LIKE A LAKE -- GRE

Leebo, thank you. This is great. I had a strong feeling the pH level needed to come down. A "friend" of a "friend" came over for a little moral support and with his experience provided some guidance...which, after looking at your steps was pretty close to the same. I had a 50lb bag of salt that he felt was necessary given my level and recommends more...wanted towait before adding more. I plan to study the SWG user manual tonight so I understand the bells and whistles on it...geez...didn't know it could tell me half the stuff.

To lower the pH to an acceptable level, should I just buy the pool version Muratic Acid from Lowes (say 1 gal) and put it in...leave overnight tonight and test tomorrow or something different? I need to scoot to Lowes if so.

BTW...I took everyone's advice (you and Dalandlord) and got the XL with salt test strips...but didn't get the discount...Dalandlord or Jason Linhart (if you guys are listening I'd appreciate some help with a comp there).

So here is what I'm gonna do...follow those steps. Here is what I did this evening...backwashed filter...PSI is great...and tonight I'm going to add the Muratic Acid for pools and sweep the pool with the brush...and hopefully I'll get rain, otherwise I'm looking at filling the pool up to skimmer...right now the pool is on filter with the vacuum suspended like I mentioned. OBTW...I found out I have a booster pump...not even gonna go there right now...we'll address that later...welllperhaps I could run it and speed up the stir of the water...thoughts?

Thanks.
 
Re: MY INGROUND SALTWATER POOL IS LOOKING LIKE A LAKE -- GRE

randyb63 said:
To lower the pH to an acceptable level, should I just buy the pool version Muratic Acid from Lowes (say 1 gal) and put it in...leave overnight tonight and test tomorrow or something different? I need to scoot to Lowes if so.

This statement right here is a prime example of what using the test kits and the pool calculator will do for you. If you started with a PH of 7.7 and added the entire gallon of Muratic Acid, your PH would now be 6.68.....way to low. Using the calculator it shows you would only need to add 68 oz of the acid. :D Often the pool stores measure stuff in terms of gallons, pounds, tons....whatever they can sell you. Here we try and hit the nail on the nose. As for the Muratic acid....yep, the stuff from Lowes is the same stuff. Get to scooting.

I can't tell you much about a SWG and adding salt and stuff as I've never worked with it. Listening to me on this one would be like listening to the pool store. I could be wrong....I could be right. At this time I don't think the SWG will produce enough chlorine to keep up with shocking the pool. May as well turn it off and save the hassle. Adding salt right now will also do little to nothing. Just adding an extra step, that can wait till everything is clear.

But I maybe wrong........
 
Re: MY INGROUND SALTWATER POOL IS LOOKING LIKE A LAKE -- GRE

Yep. I think I'm gonna go for the approach at bringing down the pH first...off to the store...but the salt level has merit...not using SWG until pH is adjusted.
 
Re: MY INGROUND SALTWATER POOL IS LOOKING LIKE A LAKE -- GRE

Okay...muratic acid (AKA hydrocloric ACID!) added to pool...pool brushed (geez) and is still on filter...the acid is no joke...it quickly got my attention...no messes but that gas is fast and it doesn't mess around...broadcast it as close to the center of the deep end as I could safely do so...where my deepest drain (AKA return) is located...wish me luck tomorrow when I check the readings for the 68 oz addition of the acid.

Thanks again.
 
Re: MY INGROUND SALTWATER POOL IS LOOKING LIKE A LAKE -- GRE

Everyone is guiding you well, I have nothing much to add except that you don't have to mix your bleach in a bucket before adding it to the pool. Just pour it slowly in front of one of the returns directly into the pool (pump running). If you pour by the bottle, you can float the bottle on the surface of the water (makes it much lighter, plus less opportunity to splash and ruin your clothes). Or float the measuring container and let the water displace the bleach. It'll mix up fine as long as the pump is on.

If you have a pool store on the corner, I'd go ahead and let them test your water as frequently as they are willing to till you get your kit. It's better than nothing, and with it so close you actually could get some frequent results which will help you with the shocking process till the kit comes in.

It'll also be interesting to see what each set of results comes back with (i.e. if they're all over the place different each time, or not).
 

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Re: MY INGROUND SALTWATER POOL IS LOOKING LIKE A LAKE -- GRE

This is just to let you know that the Lowes by my house sells muriatic acid in two different strengths. The acid in the pool section is weaker than the acid in the paint section. The most common strength is called either 20° baume or 31.45%. The weaker is 10° baume or 15.725% and is easier to handle but you need twice as much. You need to make sure the pool calculator is set to the correct strength.
 
Re: MY INGROUND SALTWATER POOL IS LOOKING LIKE A LAKE -- GRE

Okay...did not get to the pool supply store for water test 9-15 so I kept sample and had that one and this morning's 9-16 tested. We have some slight changes but nothing great...however...I'm getting smarter. I actually knew what I was talking about at the pool supply this morning.

9/12/11 RESULTS
TOTAL CHLORINE 0.7
FREE CHLORINE 0.0
PH 7.7
TOTAL ALKALINITY 190.0
CALCIUM HARDNESS 100.0
STABILIZER (CYA) 0.0
SHOCK TREATMENT 0.7
SALT 2000?

9/15/11 RESULTS
TOTAL CHLORINE 0.5
FREE CHLORINE 0.0
PH 8.3
TOTAL ALKALINITY 120.0
CALCIUM HARDNESS 100.0
STABILIZER (CYA) 10.0
SHOCK TREATMENT 0.5
SALT 1600-1800
Note 2

9/16/11 RESULTS
TOTAL CHLORINE 0.6
FREE CHLORINE 0.2
PH 8.3
TOTAL ALKALINITY 120.0
CALCIUM HARDNESS 100.0
STABILIZER (CYA) 45.0
SHOCK TREATMENT 0.4
SALT 1600-1800
Note 3

NOTES
1 - 9/14/11 - added 68oz of muratic acid and 40lbs of salt.
2 - 9/15/11 - took a sample a.m. which sat in my car all day in the heat and didn't make it to testing.
2 - 9/15/11 - pool level rise - 1in rain water late evening into night
3 - 9/16/11 - a.m. took sample and had it and 9/15/11 sample for comparison to testing.

COMMENTS
Tests performed at pool supply on corner…personal test equipment due to arrive 9/19/2011
9/16/11 - outside temp is 62 and rain expected 9/17-9/18. I intend to add 140oz of muratic acid to lower PH and TA (hoping to achieve 7.2PH and 102TA)
Learning more about my SWG and it is still off until we fix the other problems. The sand filter is on filter and running.
Attaching MS Excel sheet too. Am I on track now with the 140oz muratic acid (pool calculator)?
Thanks again...the 20 degree drop in temps from yesterday is nice!
 

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Re: MY INGROUND SALTWATER POOL IS LOOKING LIKE A LAKE -- GRE

Did they happen to explain to you what "shock treatment 0.4" means?

I'm getting 107oz of 31% muriatic acid and 143oz for dry acid from pool calculator. Make sure you're calculating for the right kind of acid you plan to use. 143oz of 31% would put you closer to 7.0 so do check those calculation parameters before you add it.

After you add the acid tonight, wait half hour or so with pumps running and then test the pH. If it's close to 7.2 then you know it was really 8.3. But since there's a cap for the pH test usually around 8.0-8.2 it might show that it's still high. Hopefully though it will read lower than 8.2 this time to give you an accurate level to calculate with. If this happens, lower the pH again with more acid. Once you get that stabilized with a good solid reading, you can move on to chlorine.

First tell us about the CYA that you added. When? What method (sock, skimmer, etc.)? And most importantly, how much? Let's use that number for your CYA level for now instead of the pool store's. It's the most reliable data you have. Plug that number into the calculator's now column and then set the chlorine to calculate from 0 to shock level. Shock level will show at the bottom after you enter the now CYA number.

If CYA is 45ppm like the test shows, shock level is 16ppm. That means you'll need nearly 8 bottles of 128oz bleach for the first dose. Expect nearly half of that to be gone within a couple of hours so stock up on bleach, if you haven't already.

If you can get to the point where you can add bleach (adjust pH) before the store closes tonight try to get as many hourly test samples to them as possible. Then you can use that data to guestimate dosing for a few hours after they close.

i.e. if you lose 6ppm the first hour and 5ppm the second hour, you should expect ~4-5ppm loss each hour for the next 2-3 hours and re-dose accordingly. Even if that's high, it'll get you through the night. Take a sample to the store first thing in the am (if you can) to see what happened overnight and re-dose back to shock level. If you're going to be gone all day, put extra chlorine in before you leave. The goal is to maintain shock level all the time. Overdosing a little will not hurt your pool, look at the mustard algae shock level for your CYA level. You'll be safe up to, and even a little over that level.

After you add the bleach don't bother testing for anything other than FC and TC (TC-FC=CC) since you aren't needing those values for this process, and testing will go faster that way. PH is inaccurate at high chlorine levels which is why you're going to adjust that first and then not worry about it while shocking. Expect CC to climb once you add bleach to shock level. It will drop once you start beating the algae, don't worry, just note it for now.

As far as lowering TA beyond what you get after lowering pH right now, wait till the pool is cleared and chlorine under 10ppm so you can test pH accurately. Plus you'll be able to swim while lowering it, so let's get you swimming again first.

Pool school rocks huh? :~}
 
Re: MY INGROUND SALTWATER POOL IS LOOKING LIKE A LAKE -- GRE

Before you answer frog's question, do yourself a favor. Walk outside if you haven't recently and dump 3 182oz jugs of walmart bleach into the pool. Your pool is begging for chlorine. I got your PM but am on my phone, so I can only go by your posted #'s. Either way a zero level of FC is dangerous.

Then return and answer frogs question about the CYA level. 
 
Re: MY INGROUND SALTWATER POOL IS LOOKING LIKE A LAKE -- GRE

Okay fellas, Leebo…dumped 3.5 gals into the pool…had that on hand…frogabog, I bought the good stuff at HD and got my military discount (was late and I was desperate that night to get some bleach and acid). The acid (31.45%) was 9.83 for 2gal and 14.23 for 4 182oz of 6% chlorox. Yes, I’m getting pretty familiar with the pool calculator.

Okay…put the acid in around 12noon…and added the bleach around 1 hour ago…and couldn’t stand it…went to the pool supply and had it tested…she doesn’t like me much (might be wrong) since I am getting this tested so much…sure hope my kit comes in tomorrow’s mail…it’s in NC now…just a state away…fingers crossed (then how to read the dang thing).

9/16/11 RESULTS (4:15PM)
TOTAL CHLORINE 10.0
FREE CHLORINE 10.0
PH 7.7
TOTAL ALKALINITY 160.0
CALCIUM HARDNESS 300.0
STABILIZER (CYA) 0.0
SHOCK TREATMENT NA
SALT 1600-1800
Note 3


3 - 9/16/11 - 12noon added 140oz muriatic acid…3 hours later added 3.5gal liquid bleach (brushing pool occasionally) and took for test at 4:15pm

The Shock Treatment of .4 is and entry they use to recommend Sanitizer...3lbs of Ultima TKO...notice that now...they don't recommend it. I'm going to let this run for the rest of the night and test in the a.m...I could be wrong but the pool already appears to be clearing up. I never added anything for CYA...never have...I'll stock up on bleach and shock again every so often...pool store closes at 6:30pm...so any recommendation? I could shock again at 8pm and again at 12midnight...thoughts?

Based on readings...any cautions right now?
 
Re: MY INGROUND SALTWATER POOL IS LOOKING LIKE A LAKE -- GRE

At 10ppm either their test is maxed, or you aren't anywhere near shock level. If their test is maxed, forget going back for tests. They can't help you in any way.


I asked about the CYA added, due to this comment you made earlier:
-- Comments…
- I have added stabilizer, pH down before...but no pucks...I just followed their recommendation based on a sample reading...

So have you added stabilizer (CYA) or no? If so, when was it, and how did you add it? How much?

I think if I were in your shoes for tonight, I'd put in somewhere around 3-4ppm each hour till I went to bed, and then for the last dose I'd probably dump somewhere around 8ppm in for overnight. If you're one state from NC... you should have the kit very soon.

If someone who has recently had a decently green bloom could verify this is a good guestimation value/hour for the first night of shocking that'd be great.
 
Re: MY INGROUND SALTWATER POOL IS LOOKING LIKE A LAKE -- GRE

Randy, I just got home. Like Leebo I do most of my reading and posting on a cell phone. Which explains why I may have some ridiculous misspellings from time to time from the auto-correct on the phone.

I an looking at the spread sheet and the first thing I see is almost no FC and the CYA is rising. Did you add stabilizer? I didn't see in your notes where you did. If so, don't add any more. The CYA is high enough and any higher is just making it harder to shock. If not I would love to hear the pool store's explanation as to why it is rising.

Like the others are saying, you need a lot of chlorine in the pool. If the CYA of 45 is correct, the shock level is now about 16. You can run it all the way to 25 and be safe. The algae is eating it so fast it won't be that high for long anyway. This is a bar room brawl, you have to start throwing some punches. it is going to take 5.5 182 oz jugs of 6% bleach to get you to 16ppm and 8.5 182oz jugs to 25.

If you have no other way to test over the weekend go with the dilution method testing the total CL with the color comparator test kit. Or if you know it's 0 and you add enough to get to 20ppm test it the regular way and look at how orange it is. That way if you test later and it's only yellow, you dump in a jug or two and retest after 15 min or so and if it's still just yellow dump in more. you will quickly get a feel for how much your pool takes. Your pool is more than twice the size of mine so it may take more than 1 jug to get any movement in the fc level.

Lowes and H/D by me both carry full 31% MA in the pool section 2 for $10.?? so I guess you just have to look. Lowering the PH to 7.2 would be a good thing while the FC is under 10. After that forget about it till you finish. Then re-adjust the PH and salt to over 3000 before starting the SWG but forget about salt till then.

So sum it up:
1 Let us know if you added CYA and if so enough to raise it to what level? That way we know how good or bad your pool store is at testing.
2 Stock up on bleach or CL. If you go bleach I'd get 20 jugs, that's a good size pool.
 
Re: MY INGROUND SALTWATER POOL IS LOOKING LIKE A LAKE -- GRE

I'm sure the test is skewed because the bleach was not in the water for more than 1 hour before I went to the store...it was probably still in the general vacinity of my sample. Ah, yes, the CYA, etc...that must have been back in April or June time frame...I just did what they said...and added it...about 50lbs of Alkalinity up and about 40lbs of balancer...just did what they told me...I know better now...just looked outside...holy cow...the pool is changing colors...from dark green to acqua...ish...lol. I'd send photos but the files are too big...much better already...

3-4ppm equals? Pool calculator, right?! And 8ppm for overnight. Got it...anyone else?

Gonna go stock up.
 
Re: MY INGROUND SALTWATER POOL IS LOOKING LIKE A LAKE -- GRE

An hour should be plenty of time for the bleach to mix up as long as the pump is running. If you dosed it to shock level (16ppm) an hour earlier and the pool store's test does go higher than 10ppm then you lost 6ppm in one hour. Replace that 6ppm now.

And then up your hourly additions a couple of ppm for tonight because you did lose quite a bit in one hour. So say do 4-5ppm per hour all night and 10-12ppm at bedtime.

And yes! Of course.. 1ppm for you pool equals... http://poolcalculator.com :~}
 
Re: MY INGROUND SALTWATER POOL IS LOOKING LIKE A LAKE -- GRE

So just to be clear you have added NO Stabilizer since coming to TFP and they test 0,20,45 and 0! Do I have that right? If so throw out the 45 I guess. It will be great when you get your kit.
 

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