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Thread: Bonding Wire Question

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    Bonding Wire Question

    When changing out my pump, I realized the booster motor did not have a bonding wire.

    There is a solid wire bonded to the pump motor, but the casing has so much paint and is so old it will not fit through the fitting to continue on to the booster. Can I connect another piece of wire to finish the run to the booster? If so, would I use a wire nut and some liquid electrical tape? As an alternative, since the wire is long enough, can I strip the existing wire about 2'? This would cause it to be exposed from about an inch before the pump motor all the way to the booster.
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    21,000 gallon Diamond Brite Blue, Hayward Star Clear Plus 1200 Cartridge filter, Polaris 280, TF-100 Test Kit.

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: Bonding Wire Question

    Bonding wire is supposed to be bare copper wire, no insulation. If your current bonding wire has insulation you can certainly remove some of that insulation (ideally replace the wire, but that isn't always practical).

    There are special connectors rated for connecting two bonding wires together. Don't use standard wire nuts. The special connectors are widely available. Some of them require sealing against corrosion, but they do not get insulated in the sense that AC wiring gets insulated.
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    Re: Bonding Wire Question

    Just curious, is it ok braze two pieces of bonding wire together basically forming a "y" so there can be an end for each motor? The way mine is it's a pita to work on the booster pump as well.
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    Re: Bonding Wire Question

    Quote Originally Posted by JasonLion
    Bonding wire is supposed to be bare copper wire, no insulation. If your current bonding wire has insulation you can certainly remove some of that insulation (ideally replace the wire, but that isn't always practical).

    There are special connectors rated for connecting two bonding wires together. Don't use standard wire nuts. The special connectors are widely available. Some of them require sealing against corrosion, but they do not get insulated in the sense that AC wiring gets insulated.
    So no problem for the entire run from the new pump motor to the booster to be bare?
    21,000 gallon Diamond Brite Blue, Hayward Star Clear Plus 1200 Cartridge filter, Polaris 280, TF-100 Test Kit.

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    Re: Bonding Wire Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Sprocket
    Quote Originally Posted by JasonLion
    Bonding wire is supposed to be bare copper wire, no insulation. If your current bonding wire has insulation you can certainly remove some of that insulation (ideally replace the wire, but that isn't always practical).

    There are special connectors rated for connecting two bonding wires together. Don't use standard wire nuts. The special connectors are widely available. Some of them require sealing against corrosion, but they do not get insulated in the sense that AC wiring gets insulated.
    So no problem for the entire run from the new pump motor to the booster to be bare?
    They are always bare, in the picture it looks like someone painted yours. There is no problem with that run being bare.
    10,800 gallons Gunite/Plaster
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    Digital Pool Pilot DIG-220 SC-48
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    Re: Bonding Wire Question

    It's pretty brittle so it will be a pain to strip. The pool is probably 25 years old. The wire has the insulation plus at least a couple of coats of paint.
    21,000 gallon Diamond Brite Blue, Hayward Star Clear Plus 1200 Cartridge filter, Polaris 280, TF-100 Test Kit.

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    Ohm_Boy's Avatar
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    Re: Bonding Wire Question

    You can use a split-bolt connector to extend your bonding wire with a new piece of bare copper wire. Here's an image...

    [attachment=064zbwzx]split-bolt_connector.jpg[/attachment64zbwzx]
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    Re: Bonding Wire Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Ohm_Boy
    You can use a split-bolt connector to extend your bonding wire with a new piece of bare copper wire. Here's an image...

    [attachment=0:1g71tybu]split-bolt_connector.jpg[/attachment:1g71tybu]
    Now we're talking! By the way - I'm in Maitland.
    21,000 gallon Diamond Brite Blue, Hayward Star Clear Plus 1200 Cartridge filter, Polaris 280, TF-100 Test Kit.

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    Ohm_Boy's Avatar
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    Re: Bonding Wire Question

    By the way - I'm in Maitland.
    Then you should be able to get everything you need at the Home Depot on Lee Rd., or the Lowe's or Home Depot over on 434.

    I used to work in Maitland, before the company packed up and moved to Boston and tossed everyone out. I do still have a client there with an occasional job.
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    Ohm_Boy's Avatar
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    Re: Bonding Wire Question

    is it ok braze two pieces of bonding wire together basically forming a "y" so there can be an end for each motor?
    Just to lay this to rest, this is not an approved method of connecting bonding conductors, and I would expect an inspector to fail it.
    Exothermic welding is approved, but brazing is endothermic.
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    Re: Bonding Wire Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Ohm_Boy
    is it ok braze two pieces of bonding wire together basically forming a "y" so there can be an end for each motor?
    Just to lay this to rest, this is not an approved method of connecting bonding conductors, and I would expect an inspector to fail it.
    Exothermic welding is approved, but brazing is endothermic.
    Since you might as well be talking Greek to me, what would be exothermic welding? I have never seen anything but one continuous wire so I was thinking any kind of welding or connector might not be approved. Thanks
    10,800 gallons Gunite/Plaster
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    1 1/2 HP Challenger
    Digital Pool Pilot DIG-220 SC-48
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    Lershac's Avatar
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    Re: Bonding Wire Question

    In my area the split nut connector would pass. I specifically asked this of the head of electrical.
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    Ohm_Boy's Avatar
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    Re: Bonding Wire Question

    It's essentially a casting-in-place-by-explosives method. See: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_BnAbqq5BE

    The split nut passes because it is a listed connector/listed compression fastener. 'listed' means UL listed for the purpose.
    Code:
    250.8 Connection of Grounding and Bonding Equipment.
    (A)Permitted Methods.Grounding conductors and bonding jumpers shall be connected by one of the following means:
    (1) listed pressure connectors
    (2) terminal bars
    (3) pressure connectors listed as grounding and bonding equipment
    (4) the exothermic welding process
    (5) machine screw-type fasteners that engage not less than two threads or are secured with a nut
    (6) thread-forming machine screws that engage not less than two threads in the enclosure
    (7) Connections that are part of a listed assembly
    (8) Other listed means
    (B)Methods Not Permitted.Connection devices or fittings that depend solely on solder shall not be used.
    I've seen relay racks failed because there was no label indicating that they were listed equipment. Not the panels in the rack, but the actual racks themselves. The contractor had to provide documentation (and affix it to the installation) or remove it all and replace it with equipment which 'prominently' displayed that the equipment was approved and who the listing authority was (UL). The AHJ was very strict on that particular contract, but he was well within his rights and responsibilities.
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    Re: Bonding Wire Question

    Thanks for the split post connector tip. Made it very easy.
    21,000 gallon Diamond Brite Blue, Hayward Star Clear Plus 1200 Cartridge filter, Polaris 280, TF-100 Test Kit.

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