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Thread: Muriatic Acid

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    Muriatic Acid

    Hi, I put MA in my pool to lower high Alk plus a stubborn PH that kept rebounding high every other day. I drizzled it undiluted into the 1" return jet (16 ft above ground pool) as one of the moderators suggested. I did not have wind blowing in my face or anything. The next day I felt chest tightness, and kept coughing. I suppose it could've been allergies, but this is unusual for me and since it was the very next day, I strongly feel it was caused by breathing the MA, although I did not smell any strong smell while drizzling it, but then again I've been stuffy lately. Are you supposed to dilute it in a bucket before drizzling it? Or drizzle at full strength? Another pool web site mentioned one should wear a respirator for acid? I found one on Home Depot's website (3M Tekk) http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1 ... ogId=10053 but out of the items it says it protects againsts (Mold, Lead, Coatings and solvents, Chlorine, hydrogen chloride, sulfur dioxide, hydrogen fluoride or hydrogen sulfide.) I don't see MA (hydrochloric acid). Or does it fall under one of the ones they mention? (I'm no chemist) If this one won't do, can someone advise me on a good respirator?
    Intex Sequoia Spirit above ground 16' round pool, 5,000 gals. ,vinyl liner.
    Intex Saltwater Chlorine generator/pump/filter combo system
    Test kit: TF-100

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    Mod Squad JohnT's Avatar
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    Re: Muriatic Acid

    You will know it if you inhale MA fumes. Even if you got a whiff, the main issue with minor exposure is irritiation in the throat and lungs.

    Look for a respirator that handles hydrogen chloride. I know 3M makes a cartridge.
    TFP Moderator
    20K Gallon 20X36 Vinyl Inground
    Hayward S244T Sand Filter with 1HP Whisperflo Pump. Liquidator C-201 and Solar Heat

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    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Re: Muriatic Acid

    filb, make sure to wear eye protection when using MA.
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    Re: Muriatic Acid

    Yikes, I've been adding about a quart of MA every other day to my pool for the last 5 months--and more before that (pool is still new). I inhaled the fumes once or twice and it produces an immediate cough, but no lasting effects that I noticed. But if the fumes that I don't notice are dangerous then I'm a goner.
    9,200 gal. Gunite Luna Quartz French Grey pool with spill over spa, two fountains on tanning ledge (rarely used)
    Pentair Whisperflo 2HP, Pentair CCP Cartridge 420 Sq. Ft., Polaris 280 with booster pump
    Pentair EasyTouch 4, RayPak LoNox 266k Natural Gas heater, Aqua Rite SWCG T Cell 9, Borates, TF-100 test kit

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    Melt In The Sun's Avatar
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    Re: Muriatic Acid

    It's an acute effect, not cumulative or long-lasting. If you aren't hacking and gagging, you're doing just fine
    11,200 gal, Pebble-Tec; Tristar 2-speed 1hp - Swimclear 325 ft2 cart - SWG - A & A in-floor cleaner - Heat pump. For the poolside cooking, a Yoder Wichita and a Big Steel Keg!
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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Muriatic Acid

    Yeah, you will know when you have breathed some in...right away! (not that I have any experience ) You feel it (coughing, etc.) more than smell it. You will have the same problem even if you put it in a bucket first (I put direct like you did), it is probably better to handle it only once. However, a respirator is never a bad idea.
    By the way, my allergies have been kicking in lately (Minnesota).
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: Muriatic Acid

    I quickly discovered how powerful MA fumes are when adding it the first time, so now I always note wind direction when adding it and I act accordingly. Pouring it out into the measuring container tends to lead to the highest inhalation risk, so I always arrange things so that I'm upwind for this. I can't always stay upwind when pouring it into the pool, but knowing wind direction still allows me to reduce the risk, and I sometimes briefly hold my breath if needed.

    There are a few other things I do when adding MA in order to avoid problems:

    - Before pouring into the measuring container, I fill a second container with water and have it standing by right next to where I'm pouring. If any acid spills or splashes out of the measuring container, I can immediately dilute it with this water. A drop of acid on my cement will quickly turn that spot white (I found that out the hard way), but if I get water on the spot right away, it can reduce the discoloration.

    - When pouring into the pool, it's surprising how much it can splash, and how far the little splashed drops can go. I therefore keep the cup at arm's length, and I lower the cup all the way to the surface of the pool before pouring. I actually touch the bottom of the cup to the water so that the the acid only falls a couple inches before it hits the surface.

    - Since I prefer to add MA in little "strips" to different spots around the perimeter of the pool rather than adding it at a single inlet spot, there is always a risk of drips running down the outside of the cup and falling when I move from one spot to the next. I therefore always keep the cup held at arms length out over the pool when moving between spots.

    - After adding the last bit from the cup, I walk to either the spa or the skimmer and dunk the entire measuring cup a few times. I don't specifically add any MA to those spots, so I know that they'll have the lowest acid concentrations.

    Those are just few things that I've learned to do through trial and error.

    Larry
    Los Angeles, CA -- 22K gallon in-ground plaster pool with spa, built around 1980, replastered around 2009-2010.
    Pentair Intelliflo VS (variable speed) pump and Quad 100 DE filter. Older "MiniMax" gas heater. Pentair Rebel cleaner.
    NO SWG - Liquid Cl only. Taylor K-2006 test kit.

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    Re: Muriatic Acid

    Thanks for all the advice guys!
    Intex Sequoia Spirit above ground 16' round pool, 5,000 gals. ,vinyl liner.
    Intex Saltwater Chlorine generator/pump/filter combo system
    Test kit: TF-100

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    In the Industry

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    Re: Muriatic Acid

    I use MA to remove the cement film on tiles etc, I wear a charcoal mask (disposable) and that seems to work fine against the fumes and that is indoors!

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    Muriatic Acid

    I caught a good whiff of it once when I was a kid pouring it into a 2 liter bottle...

    You'll know it. Instantly.

    Ive been pretty paranoid since ugly my pool a few months back. So far no problems. And I use a lot to keep things in line.
    14,000 gallon IG plaster pool, Cartridge Filter

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    Re: Muriatic Acid

    Quote Originally Posted by jlentz32
    I caught a good whiff of it once when I was a kid pouring it into a 2 liter bottle...
    Heh, heh, I can tell where this is going
    12,800 gallon IG plaster kidney-shaped pool, waterslide, 800 gallon spa.
    1HP 2 speed Sta-Rite pool pump, 1.5 HP Sta-Rite spa jet pump. 2 skimmers, 1 main drain
    Purex-Triton TR-60 325 lb.sand filter. 2" Plumbing, Intex SWCG, TF-100 test kit.
    Link to pics of my pool! http://www.troublefreepool.com/my-oasis-t26558.html

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    TimS's Avatar
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    Re: Muriatic Acid

    When I add MA, I usually add it either a pint or a quart at a time. I have a 1 gallon container marked off in 1qt and 1/2qt (1pt) increments. (I can easily eyeball a 1 cup measurement if I have to.) I'll put 2 quarts of water in the container, then pour the required amount of MA into that water. This dilutes it enough that fumes aren't too much of an issue, and I can still get a fairly accurate measurement. I then lower the whole container into the pool, and let the water flow wash it out of the container. Works well for me.
    24' AG Round (vinyl replaced 0909) - 13500 gal - Sand Dollar Filter (150lb) - Dynamo DYNII-N1-1 1HP - Hayward HP380 Heat Pump - TF-100.
    Central Missouri

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    Re: Muriatic Acid

    I've been dosing with acid for for at least 30 years. I never measure. I use the Taylor Acid Demand system. One drop Acid Demand Reagent means I need to add one-third of a gallon of MA. I can can eyeball that closely enough that measuring is unnecessary, just to get me between 7.4 and 7.5. I can always make a small correction the next time if I'm short. I make darn sure I know where the wind is from and split the the one-third gallon pouring above whatever returns are downwind. No need to over-complicate this.
    Current: 28,000G 18'x36' I/G AnthonySylvan Plaster; Waterway 60 sq.ft. DE Filter; 1.0hp x 1.65 SF Two-Speed (B2982) WhisperFlo; 2004-Present
    Previous: 40,000G 20'x40' I/G Koven unlined WWII salvage 5/8" marine steel; Lomart Stainless Sand Filter; 3/4hp Hayward SuperPump; 1946-2003 (managed by me from about 1964)
    Ancient Taylor K-2000, upgraded with Taylor CH, TA, and FAS-DPD, and TFT CYA tests.

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    Muriatic Acid

    Quote Originally Posted by guamguy
    Quote Originally Posted by jlentz32
    I caught a good whiff of it once when I was a kid pouring it into a 2 liter bottle...
    Heh, heh, I can tell where this is going
    Yeah, you had to do it in a hurry too...



    Anyway, now that I've been dosing my pool all summer I've taken to eyeballing it a cup or two at a time right out of the jug.

    I really want something that will dose it automatically. I didn't realize how much I'd need with the swg and spillover.
    14,000 gallon IG plaster pool, Cartridge Filter

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