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Thread: Looking for a Type of PVC Fitting

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    les_garten's Avatar
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    Looking for a Type of PVC Fitting

    I'm looking for a "stub" of PVC

    Let me explain. I'll use an example. I need to cut out a 2-way valve in a manifold of other 2-ways, T's etc. But in reality, I've been thinking about the need for this for a long time.

    So, normally you cut out the fixture on both sides enough to put in Female-Female couplers and build back with pipe to get to your fitting. Well, what if you don't have room to do this, and you may have to through out a bunch of valves and rebuild everything from scratch?

    I've always thought there should be a PVC stub-out coupler. This is a slip fit Female-Male that is real short. You cut out your valve and it gives you back the pipe you lost in the valve slip joint. Only about 3" long or so and you don't loose a ton of pipe.

    Anybody seen anything like this. I can't believe it doesn't exist!
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    Re: Looking for a Type of PVC Fitting

    I think I cut the female end off of exactly what you're looking for to couple a Summer Escapes hose to an Intex hose about two weeks ago.

    Pretty sure H got it at either walmart or home depot. I might even have another in the garage. I needed it to work like a nipple and the larger end was too big.
    Where kids swim in 54 degree water, turn blue, and giggle happily cuz they got a POOL!
    Year 3 BBB -15' x 48" Intex Metal Frame - Was using (2) 1000gph Intex cartridge filters (see Full time pumping Intex). 2012, converted to 1600gph and sand filter+SWG = Sand filter love affair!
    Don't waste time and energy looking for a better value on test kits, the TF100 is the best deal around. I did the looking and spent the extra money, but you don't have to make the same mistake. Just go here: TFTestkits. I use Pool Calculator for min/max, and shocking chlorine levels.

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    les_garten's Avatar
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    Re: Looking for a Type of PVC Fitting

    Quote Originally Posted by frogabog
    I think I cut the female end off of exactly what you're looking for to couple a Summer Escapes hose to an Intex hose about two weeks ago.

    Pretty sure H got it at either walmart or home depot. I might even have another in the garage. I needed it to work like a nipple and the larger end was too big.
    I'll go over to HD and think hacksaw.

    I called a Pro Plumbing supply and they had nothing to suggest.
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    frogabog's Avatar
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    Re: Looking for a Type of PVC Fitting

    It should be sold under something like:

    x size by x size pvc adapter but the label on mine only has a number.

    Where kids swim in 54 degree water, turn blue, and giggle happily cuz they got a POOL!
    Year 3 BBB -15' x 48" Intex Metal Frame - Was using (2) 1000gph Intex cartridge filters (see Full time pumping Intex). 2012, converted to 1600gph and sand filter+SWG = Sand filter love affair!
    Don't waste time and energy looking for a better value on test kits, the TF100 is the best deal around. I did the looking and spent the extra money, but you don't have to make the same mistake. Just go here: TFTestkits. I use Pool Calculator for min/max, and shocking chlorine levels.

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Looking for a Type of PVC Fitting

    I think they are called repair couplings:

    http://www.amazon.com/Genova-70122-R...390719&sr=1-21

    I have not used one, but basically they do not have the internal stop and you have to prime with the coupling pulled onto one side.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    les_garten's Avatar
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    Re: Looking for a Type of PVC Fitting

    Thanx, both of those look interesting.
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    Re: Looking for a Type of PVC Fitting

    It's called a slip reducer. There is also a compression type reducer. Reducers with threads are usually called bell reducers.
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    les_garten's Avatar
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    Re: Looking for a Type of PVC Fitting

    This pic is an example of what I'm looking at.

    I have to replace the center valve, but the other two would be worse.

    http://www.turbonet.biz/misc/Pool/P1010789.JPG
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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Looking for a Type of PVC Fitting

    So the center valve was you culprit? Did you find that out using Bama method?

    That center valve is going to be tricky. You have very little room to T and to the ground for that matter. The quick way (but I am not sure if it willwork) is to cut right at the top of that valve, then put a valve extendedEDIT: oops mean a pipe extender on what is left of the upper pipe. Below the valve dig out the pipe a little and make a cut on the lower pipe long enough that you can put a short pipe stub in the lower inlet to the new valve and use the coupling I pointed to above, having that coupling all the way down on the pipe in ground and slidding it up over the stubby pipe on the valve to make the joint. That is the easy way, though I might consider a more drastic approach where you use some unions, etc.

    By the way, what is that blacked cupped thingy with electrical running to it?
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    les_garten's Avatar
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    Re: Looking for a Type of PVC Fitting

    Quote Originally Posted by linen
    So the center valve was you culprit? Did you find that out using Bama method?

    That center valve is going to be tricky. You have very little room to T and to the ground for that matter. The quick way (but I am not sure if it willwork) is to cut right at the top of that valve, then put a valve extended on what is left of the upper pipe. Below the valve dig out the pipe a little and make a cut on the lower pipe long enough that you can put a short pipe stub in the lower inlet to the new valve and use the coupling I pointed to above, having that coupling all the way down on the pipe in ground and slidding it up over the stubby pipe on the valve to make the joint. That is the easy way, though I might consider a more drastic approach where you use some unions, etc.

    By the way, what is that blacked cupped thingy with electrical running to it?

    Haven't found out for sure yet, going to do that water test tomorrow when the wife can help with the hose and what not. But as you can see, I'm getting ready for it.

    The cupped thing you are referring to is the electrical junction for the Transformer to the pool light.
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    Re: Looking for a Type of PVC Fitting

    Time to visit the "gee thanks mr pool builder/plumber" thread and add your pic. That's just silly to leave that little of pipe between joints to work with.

    Is the leak at the weld or in the body? One of the reasons to go with relatively expensive valves like that is the ability to rebuild them in place, if the welds and valve body are ok, you should look at replacing just the valve internals if that would fix for you.
    (DIY):16K Gal 20X30 rectangular IG Gunite, w/spa, CCP 520 filter,2 Pentair VS pumps, 400KBTU Pentair gas heater, Heat Pump for cooling, **update5.25.2013** added an intellichem with acid pump that will control existing SWG. My Build Thread Here

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    Re: Looking for a Type of PVC Fitting

    how about a coupling.
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    Re: Looking for a Type of PVC Fitting

    Quote Originally Posted by linen
    valve extendedEDIT: oops mean a pipe extender
    Sorry about my poor flow of consciousness in my post above, I meant a "pipe extender" not a "valve extended"...not sure what that would be

    Lershac has a good point, it the leak is in the valve, fix it in place.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: Looking for a Type of PVC Fitting

    Quote Originally Posted by Lershac
    Time to visit the "gee thanks mr pool builder/plumber" thread and add your pic. That's just silly to leave that little of pipe between joints to work with.

    Is the leak at the weld or in the body? One of the reasons to go with relatively expensive valves like that is the ability to rebuild them in place, if the welds and valve body are ok, you should look at replacing just the valve internals if that would fix for you.
    I'm going to investigate that today. I rebuilt the valve. I heard a leak around the lower pipe juncture. Tried sealing it with epoxy and not sure it got sealed there. Also seems like I hear a leak possibly in the body. Looks like the valve is gonna go away, perhaps. I still have some more troubleshooting to do.

    The Pool builders obviously want to save every freakin' penny. The thing is, most people don't ever see them again, so there is no incentive to make an easy to repair and maintain system. Pretty sad, an extra $150 or so on a $40-$50,000 would save a lot of grief in the long run.

    If I replace the valve, what would you guys suggest I use. The current valve is a Pentair.
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    Re: Looking for a Type of PVC Fitting

    Quote Originally Posted by bobodaclown
    how about a coupling.
    Yeah, I looked at the repair coupling mentioned above.
    14x30 PebbleTec(Caribbean Blue) 12,000 Gals BORAX
    Pentair IntelliFlo <<>> Pentair FNS Plus DE
    Pentair 5G Intellibrite w/Intellibrite Controller
    ROME Solarium 125 Heat Pump
    Kreepy Krauly Classic <<>> Pentair 320 Feeder

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    les_garten's Avatar
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    Re: Looking for a Type of PVC Fitting

    Quote Originally Posted by linen
    Quote Originally Posted by linen
    valve extendedEDIT: oops mean a pipe extender
    Sorry about my poor flow of consciousness in my post above, I meant a "pipe extender" not a "valve extended"...not sure what that would be

    Lershac has a good point, it the leak is in the valve, fix it in place.
    I just found a pool builder supply this morning and he had these! He would only sell to pool builders, but soldme 3 anyhow. So I just snagged a few of these.
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    Lershac's Avatar
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    Re: Looking for a Type of PVC Fitting

    If you are hearing a leak and not seeing water or feeling wetness, it ain't leakin. Water flow through a valve makes noise.
    (DIY):16K Gal 20X30 rectangular IG Gunite, w/spa, CCP 520 filter,2 Pentair VS pumps, 400KBTU Pentair gas heater, Heat Pump for cooling, **update5.25.2013** added an intellichem with acid pump that will control existing SWG. My Build Thread Here

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    les_garten's Avatar
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    Re: Looking for a Type of PVC Fitting

    Quote Originally Posted by Lershac
    If you are hearing a leak and not seeing water or feeling wetness, it ain't leakin. Water flow through a valve makes noise.
    OK,

    But as I mentioned in my tests above. I have 3 valves as shown in the picture above. That valve is the only one that sounds like a vacuum leak and blows a ton of air into the basket when you crack it partially closed. The other two are quiet at any setting up to closed and flow no air bubbles into the basket.

    Riddle me that?

    I have about 30 years of using a stethoscope everyday all day in the medical field, so I kinda have a trained ear in that respect.

    I want the problem to be above ground I might add. I really do. But I can't imagine a problem below ground that would get worse as the valve was cracked close. The flow and venturi effect would decrease as the valve was closed if you were a little gay in the line taking pressures I would think.
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    Re: Looking for a Type of PVC Fitting

    If I were you I'd replace the plumbing on all three valves at the same time and it would be so much easier. The valves look like 2 inch/2.5 inch valves. Cut the three off and cap the three pipes coming out of the ground with schedule 80 male threaded adapters. you can use threaded pvc niples between the valves and then they can be reused by cutting the threaded niples and replacing the niples which costs very little.
    Northeast PA (Mt Cobb) 16,000 gallon in ground salt pool with all Pentair automation and Intelliflo VS pump. Also part of the pool is a two 5-horsepower 3-jet Badujet swim system. For heating we use a 384 sq-ft Heliocol solar pool heating system and additional solar from the 160 sq-ft house solar heating system.

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    Lershac's Avatar
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    Re: Looking for a Type of PVC Fitting

    Quote Originally Posted by les_garten
    Quote Originally Posted by Lershac
    If you are hearing a leak and not seeing water or feeling wetness, it ain't leakin. Water flow through a valve makes noise.
    OK,

    But as I mentioned in my tests above. I have 3 valves as shown in the picture above. That valve is the only one that sounds like a vacuum leak and blows a ton of air into the basket when you crack it partially closed. The other two are quiet at any setting up to closed and flow no air bubbles into the basket.

    Riddle me that?

    I have about 30 years of using a stethoscope everyday all day in the medical field, so I kinda have a trained ear in that respect.

    I want the problem to be above ground I might add. I really do. But I can't imagine a problem below ground that would get worse as the valve was cracked close. The flow and venturi effect would decrease as the valve was closed if you were a little gay in the line taking pressures I would think.
    Yeah there's a leak there then. If you run a heavy flow of water over the valve when it's gushing air does the air decrease or stop? Another trick is to tape plastic around the valve in question to let it suck out all the air and let the plastic seal up the leak. If that works it's def the valve.

    If the welds are good and the body isn't cracked I would def rebuild. They are good valves. Try taking it apart and seeing if any mating surfaces look nicked or cut? Some petro gel might help there.
    (DIY):16K Gal 20X30 rectangular IG Gunite, w/spa, CCP 520 filter,2 Pentair VS pumps, 400KBTU Pentair gas heater, Heat Pump for cooling, **update5.25.2013** added an intellichem with acid pump that will control existing SWG. My Build Thread Here

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