Light Sealant?

[les_garten]

In April I bought a new house with Pool, Yippee!

So I soon discovered that the Pentair SAM Light was partially filled with water.

I changed it out with a LED Pentair Intellibrite 5G.

When I pulled the old light out for change out, I noticed a silicone type Filler sealant around the cable. I dug it out with a screwdriver, removed the old light and installed the new one.

I have not replaced the sealant. I am not losing any water at this time.

But, Imay want to do a partial water change to get my CYA down. That would be a good time to replace that sealant.

What would I use?

Shoyuld I replace it?

Thanx!

 

[PoolGuyNJ]

If you're not loosing water, skip it. The conduit was connected correctly.

Scott

 

[les_garten]

If you're not loosing water, skip it. The conduit was connected correctly.

Scott

If I'm loosing water, it's slow.

The light cord was 50' long.

When I started pulling it I notice within about 5' or so that it was wet.

I was pulling from the Transformer end.

If I were to be in a position to put it in, what sealant would you guys use? Like if I do a partial drain, I may just drain it to there and do the sealant at the same time.

 

[PoolGuyNJ]

The conduit is always full, it's below the water line. This is why there is a junction box at least 12" above the water line where the light fixture cable meets the line power. With the light cord and fixture in place, the elevation prevents and water from rising up and meeting the connections.

If it's suspect, a dye syringe can be used to squirt some dye near it's opening in the niche. If it gets sucked in, it's leaking and should be sealed. When I can find it, I use butyl tape, a thich, gooey, tar like tape that can be pressed in place. When it isn't available, I use either Anderson's or AB epoxy putty, which can cure under water..

Scott

 

[les_garten]

The conduit is always full, it's below the water line. This is why there is a junction box at least 12" above the water line where the light fixture cable meets the line power. With the light cord and fixture in place, the elevation prevents and water from rising up and meeting the connections.

If it's suspect, a dye syringe can be used to squirt some dye near it's opening in the niche. If it gets sucked in, it's leaking and should be sealed. When I can find it, I use butyl tape, a thich, gooey, tar like tape that can be pressed in place. When it isn't available, I use either Anderson's or AB epoxy putty, which can cure under water..

Scott

Thanx!

There was something like silicon in there originally that I gouged out with an array of screwdrivers.

 

[les_garten]

I just looked up the Butyl tape. I think I have some of this. It is aluminized and used to seal duct work. I could peel the tar off of the aluminum.

 

[PoolGuyNJ]

Just use AB putty. It isn't expensive and is readily available.

Scott

 

[les_garten]

Just use AB putty. It isn't expensive and is readily available.

Scott

How hard does it get? I would want something removable obviously.

 

[PoolGuyNJ]

It gets hard like a rock but can be chipped off without too much of a problem. The only time you would need to chip it would be to change the fixture.

Normally fixtures are left with enough cord slack so it can be brought up to the deck for bulb and gasket changes.

Scott