Become a TFP Supporter Pool Math Forum Rules Pool School
Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: How to test SWG before replacing cell

  1. Back To Top    #1

    How to test SWG before replacing cell

    My Ecomatic ESC 36 is not producing as much chlorine this season. It has run fine for the 7 years I lived here, and I replaced the cell 3-4 years ago.

    Since the unit is at least 7 years old, I would like to verify the controller is still good before I shell out money for a replacement cell. Are there current/voltage measurements that would give me confidence in the controller?

  2. Back To Top    #2

    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Coastalish 'down easter'

    Re: How to test SWG before replacing cell

    If you can get the current measurements and know what they ought be, it'd be a good indicator of the cell's condition. Failing that, you can fill a 5 gal. bucket with pool water and submerge the cell in it, and trick the flow sensor into thinking there is flow and look for hydrogen bubbles and check the cl of the bucket water after a few minutes.
    Luv& Luk

    Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill a couple of libraries :-D

    POOL SCHOOL, TF Testkits, Jason's Pool Calculator, CYA vs. cl chart, (Just a few DARNED handy links!)

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Brisbane, Australia

    Re: How to test SWG before replacing cell

    that wouldn't test the controller though, you'd still be testing the cell.

    gkran, unless the unit has a self testing capability (which probably wouldn't pick up internal faults anyway) the only way to test a controller is either to have a cell which is known to be in good condition, or use test bench which an average Joe wouldn't have access to anyway

  4. Back To Top    #4

    Join Date
    Oct 2010

    Re: How to test SWG before replacing cell

    Here are a couple of things to check before you condemn the controller or cell.

    Clean the cell per the manufacturers instructions. As calcium scales builds up inside the cell, then chlorine production decreases.

    Test the Stabilizer/conditioner (CYA) level in the pool water.
    If CYA is less than the recommended 60-80 ppm this will allow the sunlight to use up the chlorine faster than the salt system can produce it.


    20x40 free-form IG vinyl, 1hp Hayward superpump, Hayward pro grid DE filter, Raypak heatpump, Goldline Aquarite SWCG, Polaris 280 with booster, and tested using a Taylor K2006.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts