How to test SWG before replacing cell

[gkran]

My Ecomatic ESC 36 is not producing as much chlorine this season. It has run fine for the 7 years I lived here, and I replaced the cell 3-4 years ago.

Since the unit is at least 7 years old, I would like to verify the controller is still good before I shell out money for a replacement cell. Are there current/voltage measurements that would give me confidence in the controller?

 

[waste]

If you can get the current measurements and know what they ought be, it'd be a good indicator of the cell's condition. Failing that, you can fill a 5 gal. bucket with pool water and submerge the cell in it, and trick the flow sensor into thinking there is flow and look for hydrogen bubbles and check the cl of the bucket water after a few minutes.

 

[Strannik]

that wouldn't test the controller though, you'd still be testing the cell.

gkran, unless the unit has a self testing capability (which probably wouldn't pick up internal faults anyway) the only way to test a controller is either to have a cell which is known to be in good condition, or use test bench which an average Joe wouldn't have access to anyway

 

[Poolschoolgrad]

Here are a couple of things to check before you condemn the controller or cell.

Clean the cell per the manufacturers instructions. As calcium scales builds up inside the cell, then chlorine production decreases.

Test the Stabilizer/conditioner (CYA) level in the pool water.
If CYA is less than the recommended 60-80 ppm this will allow the sunlight to use up the chlorine faster than the salt system can produce it.



PSG