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Thread: Chlorine question

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    Chlorine question

    Got a question that ahs been killing me all summer. All my pool numbers have been pretty good except at begining of season my ph was high so added MA and its been right at 7.2 for a while. All numbers looks good as well. My main problem is every reading shows no free chlorine (0). I have been adding shock (it came with the pool that was built last year and no issues with pool maintance last year) till I get a reading of free chlorine. That lasts about 24 hours then back to 0. I have an automatic feeder that has been turned as high as possible. Remember this all came with the pool. The other problem is I have been fighting small amounts of green algae I assume due to no free chlorine. Please any help would be greatly appreciated. This is about 17,000 g pool.
    33x24 gunite pool, hayward4.0 LED light, vs-3050 pentair pump, clean and clear plus 520, rainbow 320 chlorinator

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    hawkeye's Avatar
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    Re: Chlorine question

    Hello the first thing you should do I get some cya in it quick bring level to 50....and you will be able to keep chlorine in it then...you have to establish a cya which is stabilizer.....you said you have swg hooked up? I don't know alot about them except I don't need one...lol

    You need to raise the Fc up with shock but without cya level right where it needs to be you're just spinning your wheels..cya protects the chlorine from being consumed by sunlight so if your level is low this is why you are getting alge...post full test results and read up on pool school here at the site ton of helpful info there.....

    18ft 52in deep doughboy 8000 gallons
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    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Re: Chlorine question

    Quote Originally Posted by tkutch
    Got a question that ahs been killing me all summer. All my pool numbers have been pretty good except at begining of season my ph was high so added MA and its been right at 7.2 for a while. All numbers looks good as well. My main problem is every reading shows no free chlorine (0). I have been adding shock (it came with the pool that was built last year and no issues with pool maintance last year) till I get a reading of free chlorine. That lasts about 24 hours then back to 0. I have an automatic feeder that has been turned as high as possible. Remember this all came with the pool. The other problem is I have been fighting small amounts of green algae I assume due to no free chlorine. Please any help would be greatly appreciated. This is about 17,000 g pool.
    It will help us if you post a full set of test results and tell us how you got them.

    Have you been using trichlor pucks/tablets in that feeder all this time?
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

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    Re: Chlorine question

    I have read a bit on the forums and know its better to use the Bleach method but when the pool was built last year they put the inline feeder and gave me a bucket of tablets. So yes I have been usisng it this whole time. My numbers are...
    TH: 360-380
    FC:0
    PH:changes from 7.2-7.5 used to be real high about a month ago and started adding MA
    TA: between 100-120
    CYA: 75-100
    33x24 gunite pool, hayward4.0 LED light, vs-3050 pentair pump, clean and clear plus 520, rainbow 320 chlorinator

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    Re: Chlorine question

    Your CyYA is about as high as you want it. You can either drain some water out and continue to use pucks or just switch to daily additions of liquid chlorine.

    With your consistent 0 chlorine level, I'd check the feeder to see if it's clogged (and that there are tabs in it ).
    Luv& Luk
    -Ted

    Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill a couple of libraries :-D

    POOL SCHOOL, TF Testkits, Jason's Pool Calculator, CYA vs. cl chart, (Just a few DARNED handy links!)

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    Re: Chlorine question

    Yeah I checked the chlorine to make sure but I atleast check that once a week. To be honest I think I plan to change to the bleach way next year. Its already late in the game for this season. This year I have gone through tons more chlorine than last year. About 1/4 more than last year. however I live in dallas and its been HOT with no rain. As for if my line is clogged. I dont think so because when I take the cap off water comes pouring out. I then turn the know to off and it turns off. Then move it back to 5 and the water comes out again like it always has.
    33x24 gunite pool, hayward4.0 LED light, vs-3050 pentair pump, clean and clear plus 520, rainbow 320 chlorinator

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    Re: Chlorine question

    I have no experience with SWG, but when I read your OP my first thought was your CYA was too high. With you being unable to keep FC in the pool and signs of algae I would change some water to get your CYA down to 50-60. I would then shock the pool to clear the algae and when all of that was done I would raise the CYA to the level recommended for your SWG. Shocking the pool with a CYA that could very well be over 100 would take a lot of bleach.
    18x36 Vinyl In-ground w/roman ends 27,400G, Hayward 3/4hp with 300# sand filter. Hayward heat pump heater

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    Re: Chlorine question

    My apologies. I must of not been clear earlier. I dont have salt water. Its an inline chlorinator for my pool. I think its called Rainbow or something.
    33x24 gunite pool, hayward4.0 LED light, vs-3050 pentair pump, clean and clear plus 520, rainbow 320 chlorinator

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    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Re: Chlorine question

    We really need to see the FC & CC numbers. You can add a bottle of bleach to the pool, circulate for 30 minutes and then test FC & CC.

    I have a feeling that your CYA is a lot higher than posted because of using the chlorinator w/trichlor tabs since last year. You can do a dilution test by using one part tap water with one part pool water and then do the CYA test. Double the results. This will give us an idea if you are closer to 100 or 200.
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

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    Re: Chlorine question

    At the start of this pool season I dumped about 25% of the pool water and replaced it. This was due to a high CYA reading but not by too much. If I remember correctly it was 125. Then due to the hot weather in dallas I am losing water each day and having to refill about once a day to every other day of about 1.5-2 inches of water.
    33x24 gunite pool, hayward4.0 LED light, vs-3050 pentair pump, clean and clear plus 520, rainbow 320 chlorinator

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Chlorine question

    Quote Originally Posted by tkutch
    At the start of this pool season I dumped about 25% of the pool water and replaced it. This was due to a high CYA reading but not by too much. If I remember correctly it was 125. Then due to the hot weather in dallas I am losing water each day and having to refill about once a day to every other day of about 1.5-2 inches of water.
    I would not be too confident in your CYA being at a manageable level (typically 30-50 ppm for a non swg chlorine pool). Evaporation then refilling to original level does not change your CYA concentration. Using trichlor tablets raises CYA fast. I agree with the fly, I see no evidence that your CYA isn't sky high or heading there...your test numbers are not convincing...you reported a big range for your CYA...how are you getting your test results?
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: Chlorine question

    tkutch,

    I understand your dilemma about your pool as the season gets closer to the end. It would be a good idea to take one of two paths.....

    1. maintain the status quo and limp along as best you can and plan on completely fixing the pool next season. That "limping along" will result in using A LOT of bleach and pulling the pucks from your chlorinator.

    2. Fixing it now. That will involve just as much chlorine but will require a LOT more involvement from your standpoint as far as getting a good test kit and beginning to learn and understand pool water chemistry.

    Either way is just fine but you need to make that decision first and then we'll help you whichever way you decide.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Re: Chlorine question

    Now I am more confused...I double check my numbers and was wrong. And then I checked my water again this number and it says what my numbers have said...
    PH8.0
    CYA-45-50
    FC1.5 I think this is due to the shock added last night 4 cups to 17000 gallon pool
    TA-120
    CH-340
    Phospates- 300
    33x24 gunite pool, hayward4.0 LED light, vs-3050 pentair pump, clean and clear plus 520, rainbow 320 chlorinator

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    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
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    Re: Chlorine question

    What test kit are you using to get those numbers?
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
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    Re: Chlorine question

    Leslie's Chlorine FAS-DPD Service Test Kit
    33x24 gunite pool, hayward4.0 LED light, vs-3050 pentair pump, clean and clear plus 520, rainbow 320 chlorinator

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    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
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    Re: Chlorine question

    Just checking so we'd know whether to believe the CYA test or not.
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 2hp/¼hp SPL Power-Flo 2-speed pump. 200sqft Waterway Cartridge Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
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    ivyleager's Avatar
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    Re: Chlorine question

    You need to decrease that pH, but you probably know that.

    That CYA level is good. I'd stop using any more pucks or "shock" products. Those will raise your CYA level, which will require you to maintain chlorine at higher levels. BTW, what "shock" product did you add last night, do you still have the container? Please list the ingredients. Since you've been fighting a bit of algae, you do need to raise your chlorine to shock level to kill it, but do so using bleach.

    Next, try believing in the use of bleach. To maintain your FC between 4-8, which is what you need to do with your CYA level, all you need to do is add a gallon of bleach every other day or so. (Of course, this depends on several other factors.) For what it's worth, my pool is 25Kgallons, CYA 55, and I maintain my FC between 4-8 by adding a large jug of bleach (182oz) every other night.

    There's a Pool Calculator link in Butterfly, Waste, Duraleigh, and linen's signature. Click on it and play around with the settings, you'll see what needs to be added and in what amounts for balancing your water.

    Hope this helps.
    CaryB
    36 x 18 IG vinyl, 25K, 1 HP pump, sand filter
    1 skimmer, 2 returns, no main drain
    Old school: PoolSolutions test kit

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    Re: Chlorine question

    Thanks for the advice IVY. Yeah I went and bought a bunch of bleach today from walmart. I am going that way now. The shock used last night was ALL CLEAR (give by builders last year) never used till this year. Ing 68% Calcium Hypo other 32%. Now I need to see how much bleach to add to get to shock level.
    33x24 gunite pool, hayward4.0 LED light, vs-3050 pentair pump, clean and clear plus 520, rainbow 320 chlorinator

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    ivyleager's Avatar
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    Re: Chlorine question

    Calcium hypo is not too bad. I use it from time to time. But watch that CH level.
    CaryB
    36 x 18 IG vinyl, 25K, 1 HP pump, sand filter
    1 skimmer, 2 returns, no main drain
    Old school: PoolSolutions test kit

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Chlorine question

    Quote Originally Posted by ivyleager
    Calcium hypo is not too bad. I use it from time to time. But watch that CH level.
    And watch your Calcite Saturation Index (CSI)...poolcalculator will calculate it for you. I wouldn't use the cal-hypo anymore especially with your current higher CH level.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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