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Thread: Should I mess with TA/FC or not after hurricane

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    Should I mess with TA/FC or not after hurricane

    I have replaced probably 1/3 of my water and CYA is still high, maybe it was really high. Anyway test kit says TA should be between 100-120 but Pool Calculator says 80-120 for traditional pool.

    Here are my #'s

    FC 3
    CC 0
    PH 7.4
    TA 80
    CH 230 turned light blue/violet
    CYA 90

    Now Pool Calc says to add 47 oz Baking soda to get me to 100 which TF-100 reccomends. I am afraid if I do that I will mess with my PH. Should I just work on bringing the chlorine up at this time and lowering the CYA?
    15'X30'X52" AGP AquaSports Grande Buttress Free (10,620 Gallons), Hayward Dreamline S190 W Zeobrite, 1.5 HP Hayward PowerFlo LX, AquaLuminator Light+ fountain attachment, Pool Rover, Tf-100 test kit, Speed Stir.

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    frogabog's Avatar
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    Re: Should I mess with TA or not

    Change your goals in the pool calculator to Trouble Free Pool.

    I can't comment on the TF100 recommending TA at 100 but 70-90 is what is usually recommended around here. It is also what will show in the pool calculator goals when you switch from traditional pool to TFP goal settings.

    I'd leave TA alone right now. Deal with chlorine and CYA, correct.
    Where kids swim in 54 degree water, turn blue, and giggle happily cuz they got a POOL!
    Year 3 BBB -15' x 48" Intex Metal Frame - Was using (2) 1000gph Intex cartridge filters (see Full time pumping Intex). 2012, converted to 1600gph and sand filter+SWG = Sand filter love affair!
    Don't waste time and energy looking for a better value on test kits, the TF100 is the best deal around. I did the looking and spent the extra money, but you don't have to make the same mistake. Just go here: TFTestkits. I use Pool Calculator for min/max, and shocking chlorine levels.

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    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Re: Should I mess with TA or not

    Your TA is just fine at 80.

    Here's the range of Recommended Levels from Pool School:
    pool-school/recommended_levels
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

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    Puffin's Avatar
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    Re: Should I mess with TA or not

    Yea, don't mess with the TA unless you're having a problem with your pH drifting.
    19,600 gal, Vinyl, Grecian L, StaRite Dura-Glas 1 HP pump, 3/4hp booster, Pentair Clean and Clear 420 Cartridge filter
    The Pool Cleaner 4x, PoolSkim

  5. Back To Top    #5

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    My Numbers after the hurricane, should I shock more

    So I dumped about 12 -15 inches of water out after the hurricane. I shocked pretty heavy before the storm and after. Water is clear and Pool Rover cleaned the bottom really well yesterday, though his bag had a green tint. My water stayed clear, and is still clear but the slight green scares me, I also added PolyQ 60 before the storm. I am considering closing in a few weeks and don't want to lose the pool now. Today I had more **** on the bottom, I guess it was stuff just suspended.

    Here are my #'s today, don't understand why my CYA stays high if I am just on bleach and have been dumping water.

    FC 8.5
    C/C 0
    PH 7.5
    TA 80
    CH 180 it turned not blue but a violet at 18'th drop, I added 5 more drops and stayed same color so I assume violet is blue. If 18'th drop turned it blue is CH 180 or 170?

    CYA 90 (before I tested 90 as well, but pool store tested 140, up from their previous 120)

    I am going to let it run like this and just brush some more. Filter is running 18 hours up from normal 6-7 after the storm. All is well
    15'X30'X52" AGP AquaSports Grande Buttress Free (10,620 Gallons), Hayward Dreamline S190 W Zeobrite, 1.5 HP Hayward PowerFlo LX, AquaLuminator Light+ fountain attachment, Pool Rover, Tf-100 test kit, Speed Stir.

  6. Back To Top    #6
    linen's Avatar
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    Re: My Numbers after the hurricane, should I shock more

    Quote Originally Posted by rjg202
    don't understand why my CYA stays high if I am just on bleach and have been dumping water.
    Since your CYA is high, it is more difficult to get an accurate reading. Generally speaking +/- 15 ppm is the accuracy of the CYA test up to 90 ppm, above that and the accuracy goes to +/- 30 ppm ( 100 to 200 ppm). It could explain dumping water and still reading high, i.e. maybe your were higher than 90 before, and now maybe you really are at 90. Take a look at the extended directions for CYA testing if you haven't already. Maybe that will shed some light. http://www.troublefreepool.com/exten...1.html#p206397
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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