I'm looking at wiring a T101 to a single speed pump. It is current turned off and on at the breaker. I believe it is 110v. I just replaced it 2 months ago and I'm going to double check to ensure it is 110v.
Wiring T101
- Thread starter 94SupraTT
- Start date
I think the T104 is a 240V timer, but you could run the pump off just the black and white for 120V. The timer motor itself is 240V
Wow! Glad I just checked the pump. It is set to 230. I for some reason thought I had it on 110 when I installed. I pulled the cover plate off the back of the pump and the jumper is set to 230.
The T104 is not only a 208V - 277V timer it's also a DPST, meaning it has 2 switches. You can hook the pump up as shown in the graphic above or you can utilize the second set of contacts to switch both leads of the pump.
On a 220V, you want to be sure that you switch both legs of the power.
Here's the PDF from Intermatic on the T104
http://www.intermatic.com/~/media/files ... glish.ashx
Wire it like shown in the PDF.
Here's the PDF from Intermatic on the T104
http://www.intermatic.com/~/media/files ... glish.ashx
Wire it like shown in the PDF.
Yes, the timer simply gets inserted into the line which already feeds your pump.
Given your questions, though, I have to ask - are you sure you're up to this task? Electricity at 220v can be dangerous. Trust me, the price of an electrician is nothing compared to your life or the safety of your loved ones.
Given your questions, though, I have to ask - are you sure you're up to this task? Electricity at 220v can be dangerous. Trust me, the price of an electrician is nothing compared to your life or the safety of your loved ones.
I'm sure I am. I changed out the pump and that was 220. I killed the power at the main breaker and I have a voltage meter to make sure there is no power at the breaker at the pool breaker.Ohm_Boy said:
I don't see a GFCI there - you really should get one on your pump circuit. And any other that goes out to your equipment.
Looking at the picture of the breaker, I am curious about something that doesn't look right. This appears to be a main lug sub-panel, and yet the ground and neutrals are all tied into the grounding bar. AFAIK, the NEC says that sub-panels are to not have the ground tied to neutral. If the sub-panel exists on a separate structure (like a pool house), then the ground itself should be derived from separate grounding rods. But, I don't understand why they have the neutrals and grounds connected, especially since it appears that the feed from the main panel (black, red, white and bare copper) has both a neutral and bare copper ground wires.
Any electricians here who can comment on this? How might this affect the GFCI breaker that appears to be feeding the lighting circuit. Also, shouldn't the two 2P breakers also be GFCIs (if the main panel breaker is not)?
Any electricians here who can comment on this? How might this affect the GFCI breaker that appears to be feeding the lighting circuit. Also, shouldn't the two 2P breakers also be GFCIs (if the main panel breaker is not)?
That appears to be a 'double pole only' panel. It doesn't have a neutral bar. It's been rigged to hold the one single pole breaker by ganging the neutral and ground wires. A definite NEC no-no.
You are right about the neutral & grounds not being connected in a sub panel.
You are right about the neutral & grounds not being connected in a sub panel.
The tie between ground and neutral in this subpanel is extremely dangerous. See here:
http://www.electricalknowledge.com/foru ... s/1098.asp
The reason that the NEC lists this as a no-no is explained. Since pools have equipotential bonding grids that are sometimes tied to equipment grounds (e.g. at pump motors, pool light junction boxes, etc), an equipment failure somewhere along that line could lead to considerable stray voltage in the water. I think you need to get this fixed immediately.
http://www.electricalknowledge.com/foru ... s/1098.asp
The reason that the NEC lists this as a no-no is explained. Since pools have equipotential bonding grids that are sometimes tied to equipment grounds (e.g. at pump motors, pool light junction boxes, etc), an equipment failure somewhere along that line could lead to considerable stray voltage in the water. I think you need to get this fixed immediately.
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