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Thread: adding salt

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    adding salt

    We are newbies here. We just set up a 14,000 gallon above ground pool. It recommended that we add 9 bags of salt to start. We have added 13 bags now and are still getting low salt message on our intex swg. Should we keep adding salt? Very confused right now. Our test strips are showing no free chlorine yet. Thanks for any info.

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    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
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    Re: adding salt

    13 bags of salt would have raised your salt by 4500 ppm. How long ago did you add it?
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 2hp/¼hp SPL Power-Flo 2-speed pump. 200sqft Waterway Cartridge Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
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    Re: adding salt

    10 bags last week and 3 more yesterday.

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    XsAllOverIt's Avatar
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    Re: adding salt

    Don't trust your SWG with the readings. You need to get salt strips to determine your readings or take the water to a pool store. Don't add any more bags until you determine what the water really is, otherwise you may be taking some of the water out. Most likely, you put too much salt in your pool already.

    SWG's sometimes need to be calibrated. Read your manual to see if it can be or google it here on TFP's site. I have an Intellichlor and the first one I had did need calibrated because it always was reading low salt when in fact I had enough salt in the pool.
    18 x 36 Inground Gunnite, White Plaster 21K gallon
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    Re: adding salt

    Thank you, I will do that. Here are the latest readings if that might help.
    Copper - 0
    FC - 0
    Total Alkalinity - 240
    PH 8.5
    CA - 100
    Total hardness - 1000
    Salt - 3610

    I know some of these are not where they should be, but we can't figure out what to do to get them there. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

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    bobodaclown's Avatar
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    Re: adding salt

    Read pool school. The link is in the bottom of Bama post.
    17K Kidney Shaped Pool Concrete (Diamond Bright) Pool, 3/4 hp 2 speed 115V Sta-rite Duraglas PEA5D-180L/P2R5D-181L (Impeller C105-92PS Diffuser C1-216P), 1.5 piping, Pentair CC100 Filter , Heat Siphon 100K BTU Heat Pump Pool Heater, Flow meter Blue White Flowmeter Model No. F-30150P, Hayward Astrolight SP0581N, SWCG CalimarTitanium Edition TE45 , Dolphin Nautilus Plus with CleverClean, Lakeland Florida

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: adding salt

    Lowering PH to around 7.2 is a good place to start.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    Re: adding salt

    Thanks everyone. I'm trying to use the pool calculator. The goal box I presume is what we want our levels to be but what is the "not setup" box for. Is that where I enter the readings I have now from our water? This is probably a dumb question, but we really don't know much about pools. Trying to learn quickly. Thanks.

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    Re: adding salt

    Oops, sorry. I see it now where it says target and now.

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    frogabog's Avatar
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    Re: adding salt

    At the bottom of the calculator (yellow section I believe) change the goal field to Trouble Free Pool. The goals will then show up above the input fields (now & target).

    Also adjust the calculator for your pool surface and the type of chlorine you use.

    In the meantime, you really need to add some chlorine manually. Do you have test results for CYA? That value is essential in determining how much chlorine you'll need.
    Where kids swim in 54 degree water, turn blue, and giggle happily cuz they got a POOL!
    Year 3 BBB -15' x 48" Intex Metal Frame - Was using (2) 1000gph Intex cartridge filters (see Full time pumping Intex). 2012, converted to 1600gph and sand filter+SWG = Sand filter love affair!
    Don't waste time and energy looking for a better value on test kits, the TF100 is the best deal around. I did the looking and spent the extra money, but you don't have to make the same mistake. Just go here: TFTestkits. I use Pool Calculator for min/max, and shocking chlorine levels.

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    Re: adding salt

    Thank you. I purchased the taylor test kit. Here are the results I have.
    Fc-0
    PH 8.3
    Ta - 300 ppm
    C hardness 500 ppm
    Cy Acid 20 ppm
    If I am reading this right, to lower the ph I need to add 2 quarts of muriatic acid. Does this sound right?

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    Optica's Avatar
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    Re: adding salt

    yes, that sounds right if you are using 14.5% muratic acid to get to 7.2 PH from 8.3 for 14K gallons. verify the strength of your acid and recheck the calculator if it is different from 14.4%
    ___________________________________________________
    12,000 Gal IGP, Gunite/Plaster, Pentair DE & Pump, Heliocol Solar, K-2006, BBB'd & Borated.

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    Re: adding salt

    Ok, thanks. Do you add it anywhere in the pool or should you add it through the skimmer? Also, how long should you wait to recheck the ph?

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    frogabog's Avatar
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    Re: adding salt

    Adjust ph down to 7.2 with acid. Test to verify. Verify acid strength as well.

    You also need to lower TA. Aim for 70-90ppm TA. This will take more than one acid addition. Which as you know will lower pH. So, you'll do it in steps. Lower to 7.2... aerate to raise pH. When it's high enough, add acid again, and aerate. Repeat till TA is adjusted.

    The main thing your pool needs is chlorine. NOW. Use the pool calculator and raise it to 5ppm. Wait half an hour with pump running and re-test with a full chlorine test to get values for FC, TC and CC. Report back here with the results.

    Leave CYA where it is for now. You may need to shock. We'll find out after you get some chlorine into the pool.
    Where kids swim in 54 degree water, turn blue, and giggle happily cuz they got a POOL!
    Year 3 BBB -15' x 48" Intex Metal Frame - Was using (2) 1000gph Intex cartridge filters (see Full time pumping Intex). 2012, converted to 1600gph and sand filter+SWG = Sand filter love affair!
    Don't waste time and energy looking for a better value on test kits, the TF100 is the best deal around. I did the looking and spent the extra money, but you don't have to make the same mistake. Just go here: TFTestkits. I use Pool Calculator for min/max, and shocking chlorine levels.

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    frogabog's Avatar
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    Re: adding salt

    Do NOT put acid into the skimmer.

    Some add it directly to the pool in front of the return (like adding bleach).

    Some mix it with pool water first. 3parts pool water, 1 part acid.

    The acid is hazardous. Wear personal protection when handling it. Don't use your good steak knife to open the bottle. :~}
    Where kids swim in 54 degree water, turn blue, and giggle happily cuz they got a POOL!
    Year 3 BBB -15' x 48" Intex Metal Frame - Was using (2) 1000gph Intex cartridge filters (see Full time pumping Intex). 2012, converted to 1600gph and sand filter+SWG = Sand filter love affair!
    Don't waste time and energy looking for a better value on test kits, the TF100 is the best deal around. I did the looking and spent the extra money, but you don't have to make the same mistake. Just go here: TFTestkits. I use Pool Calculator for min/max, and shocking chlorine levels.

  16. Back To Top    #16

    Re: adding salt

    Yay! After adding the bleach and acid we have chlorine for the first time. Here are the new readings.

    FC - 0.6 CC 0.8
    PH 7.8
    TA 280
    CH 440
    CA 25
    Thanks for all the help. Is it better to run the swg at night or in the daytime?

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    Re: adding salt

    Also, I guess my test kit doesn't come with the Borate test. Is it really important to test for that, and if so, do you have to buy a separate kit?

  18. Back To Top    #18
    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
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    Re: adding salt

    According to your tests you need to shock. I'd lower the ph down to 7.2 using acid first and then begin shocking.

    Your TA is high but that'll just take a lot of acid to bring ti down.
    Your CH is high but managable.
    Your CYA (not CA) is low but that's a good thing since you're going to be shocking.

    Don't worry about borates unless you've purposefully added them.
    It doesn't matter what time of day you run it. Whatever works for you.
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 2hp/¼hp SPL Power-Flo 2-speed pump. 200sqft Waterway Cartridge Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
    Pool School ----- Pool Math ----- TF-Test Kit

  19. Back To Top    #19

    Re: adding salt

    Well today the ph is down to 7.4 and now we have no free chlorine. How did we go from 0.6 free chlorine to nothing. I added the acid and bleach amount the pool calculator said yesterday and shocked. Help! Feeling very lost!! TA is 270 CYA is 32

  20. Back To Top    #20

    Re: adding salt

    The chlorine is being used up disinfecting whatever is growing in your pool water (algae, bacteria, whatever). 0.6 FC is next to nothing anyways, and isn't enough to help your pool.

    Shocking is a process. To shock, you add enough chlorine to bring the FC up to shock level, then you keep testing and adding chlorine to keep the pool at shock level until CC is below 0.5 and you can pass the overnight chlorine loss test. Initially you may need to test and add chlorine every hour. Later you may be able to test less frequently, depending on how quickly the FC level is dropping. Shocking can take a couple days or weeks or more depending on what condition your pool is in (barely cloudy versus green soup).

    The process is laid out in Pool School.
    Maryland
    18000 gallon plaster pool, Pentair Triton II sand filter, Purex Triton Minimax Plus 300 gas heater, 1.0 HP two-speed Pentair Superflo, Polaris 380
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