Newbie with a cloudy pool

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Tanya Marie

0
Aug 4, 2011
15
Valparaiso, IN
I started out with a green pool due to a broken filter. I got the filter fixed and with the advice found on your wonderful website, I know have a beautiful blue pool. However, it is still cloudy and I cannot see the bottom. Its been blue but cloudy now for at least a week.
Test results from 2 hours ago are as follow:

FC: 1.9
CC: 1.9
PH: 7.4
TA: 133
CYA: 24
CH: 270

I have a 6 way HTH test kit from Walmart, I intend to get the recommended test kit as soon as I can. These results are from my local pool store.

I believe I am on the right track, but I'm still not clear on why it remains cloudy.
 
You need to maintain shock levels of 40 % of the cyanuric acid level until

1) You pass the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (less than 1 ppm loss of FC overnight)
2) Your CC is 0.5 ppm, or less.
3) And, your water is clear.

What is happening with the filter pressure? How often are you backwashing?
 
Filter pressure is fine.....I've been backwashing when the filter pressure rises. When it was greener, I had to do so more often but now I'd say every other day. Btw....I've been running the filter 24/7.

One more question....how much does the sun burn off? I've been told before to only add chlorine overnight. Am I correct(ed) that I should add as often as it takes to maintain shock level, even during the day when the sun is blazing?
 
Tanya Marie said:
Filter pressure is fine.....I've been backwashing when the filter pressure rises. When it was greener, I had to do so more often but now I'd say every other day. Btw....I've been running the filter 24/7.

One more question....how much does the sun burn off? I've been told before to only add chlorine overnight. Am I correct(ed) that I should add as often as it takes to maintain shock level, even during the day when the sun is blazing?
Click to expand...

Yes, correct. Maintain shock level consistently until you pass the three criteria listed above.
 
With a 6-way from walmart you don't know what your CC is. Where did you get that number?

6-way is a great stop gap for regular maintenance while waiting on a DPD test but it won't help much with shocking.

Edit by duraleigh: I'm fairly certain poster meant FAS/DPD test to test the higher FC levels used on this forum
 
Sportsman said:
With a 6-way from walmart you don't know what your CC is. Where did you get that number?

6-way is a great stop gap for regular maintenance while waiting on a DPD test but it won't help much with shocking.

Edit by duraleigh: I'm fairly certain poster meant FAS/DPD test to test the higher FC levels used on this forum
Click to expand...


thanks! and sorry.
 
Even "guessing" with my inadequate testing means, I am making progress. Had a good rain this evening and my chlorine is still holding. Dark orange on the inadequate WMart 6 way OTO test. I am hoping and praying it holds overnight and I see an improvement.
 
I should have my Taylor test kit in a few days.....just trying to keep the chlorine at a safe level now so the kids can swim. Going to add some CYA also, as all testing methods used so far (Walmart & pool store) indicate it is low (less than 20). Of course, the pool store told me not to worry about it. What a joke.
 

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If you can't see the bottom, then you can't see (and therefore rescue) a child on the bottom. Unless you can see the bottom clearly, nobody should be in the pool. Certainly not children. Sorry, but it's just not safe, regardless of chlorine level.
 
I don't think you're done shocking, so be careful with that CYA addition because higher CYA means higher shock levels needed (more expensive). If you're under 20 but over 10, great. Add 10ppm worth (use http://poolcalculator.com to determine how much to add) and you won't be over 30ppm. When you're done shocking, then you can add a little more to get to 40 or so.

What have you added to the pool so far in the form of solid chlorine (granular or tablets)? If you can quantify what's been added to the pool already you might be able to calculate CYA under 20 so you have a better idea of how much to add right now.
 
The only solid I have added is two 1 lb bags of granular shock, as I had run out of liquid chlorine and wanted to keep shocking it. Here is where I am confused: higher CYA means higher shock levels and more expense, I get that. So should I just keep shocking it and once I pass the overnight test, THEN worry about raising the CYA for maintenance? I'm learning lots but soooo much more to learn!
 
It is a bit confusing...If you believe you 24 ppm CYA results from the HTH kit, then continue to use that for your shock level. What was the granular shock you used? You may be continuing to add CYA to your pool with that. I would stop using that stuff!

If you have the ability to check every hour, do that and add enough chlorine to always keep above you shock level (what is your target?). If you have to longer between checking, then go higher on your chlorine additions to stay above the minimum shock level.

You may want to check CYA again in a day or two, to make sure you have your shock levels right.

I would not adjust CYA until you are completely finished with the shocking process. You are done when:
1. CC is 0.5 or lower;
2. An overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less;
3. And the water is clear.
 
Ah, but that is my problem. I am waiting for a good Taylor test kit, the one I have doesn't measure over 5 and my target shock level is 12. Without being able to know for sure my FC number, I am afraid I am just wasting my money and chlorine trying to "guess". But I also don't want to quit adding chlorine and set myself back further.
 
Tanya Marie said:
Ah, but that is my problem. I am waiting for a good Taylor test kit, the one I have doesn't measure over 5 and my target shock level is 12. Without being able to know for sure my FC number, I am afraid I am just wasting my money and chlorine trying to "guess". But I also don't want to quit adding chlorine and set myself back further.
Click to expand...
You can do a dilution and use your current test kit until the better one comes. Since you target shock is ~12 ppm FC (for CYA of 24 ppm), I would do a 3:1 dilution, where that is 1 part pool water and 3 parts chlorine free water (distilled, DI, etc.), then you results will be what your current test indicates X4. So if you test reads ~3 ppm, your actual level will be 12 ppm. Be careful of using your tap water for dilution, it may be chlorinated. This is not a good long term testing method.
 
Tanya Marie said:
I don't think I made my thoughts clear. If I have low CYA, my shock level is lower. But if the sun keeps burning the chlorine off quickly, I'll have to keep adding more to keep it at shock level. So which is better? Or am I totally missing something? :|
Click to expand...

You are understanding perfectly.

Yes, you are trying to catch the best midpoint here, CYA low enough that shock level is not astronomical, but CYA high enough that you don't lose it all to the sun.

That is why we suggest something like 30 pm CYA. At 0 - 10 CYA it is easy to get chlorine to shock level but the sun takes all the chlorine in a matter of hours as the algae grows all day long. Not making progress that way.

At CYA 50+ you have good protection from the sun, losing only maybe 25% or less, but, whew, 25% of those big numbers is still a lot of bleach.

So the midpoint is around 30 ppm CYA. You still lose maybe 50% to the sun in a day, but the total values are low enough that you still are fighting algae all day as well as all night.
 

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