some of the things I've read here and various places indicates that I may need to use more washing soda to get the same result using less soda ash since there may be a little more water molecules than there are in soda ash .. assuming i can get soda ash cheaper than i can get washing soda .. what kind do I get .. soda ash lite or dense?
soda ash
- Thread starter SHADEZ
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As described in this post, Arm & Hammer® Super Washing Soda® is 100% pure sodium carbonate. I don't know where you are getting the idea that washing soda is any less pure than pH Up pool store products.
I think you are thinking of borate products such as ProTeam® Supreme, which is sodium tetraborate pentahydrate, vs. 20 Mule Team Borax, which is sodium tetraborate decahydrate, since that is a situation where the latter has more water content where you would need to use more.
I think you are thinking of borate products such as ProTeam® Supreme, which is sodium tetraborate pentahydrate, vs. 20 Mule Team Borax, which is sodium tetraborate decahydrate, since that is a situation where the latter has more water content where you would need to use more.
Washing Soda is still significantly less expensive unless you buy soda ash in very large quantities.
I was wrong (thanks to JamesW for correcting me). Apparently according to this MSDS (and this info as well), Arm & Hammer® Super Washing Soda® is actually 85% sodium carbonate and 15% water so relative to most pH Up products one would need to use 17.6% more Super Washing Soda by weight than a pH Up product that is pure sodium carbonate with no water content. I did write about this earlier in this post but forgot about it.
assuming I'm buying in bulk to save overall cost in the future ... which should I buy .. lite or dense?
If by "lite" you mean Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda and by "dense" you mean a pH Up product, just compare prices per pound and multiply the Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda price/pound by 1.176 for an equivalent comparison. Odds are, the Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda will be cheaper.
Note, however, that unless you are using Trichlor, you probably don't need soda ash. When using chlorinating liquid or bleach as your primary source of chlorine, you usually only need some Muriatic Acid and perhaps some baking soda -- rarely would you ever need pH Up or Super Washing Soda.
Note, however, that unless you are using Trichlor, you probably don't need soda ash. When using chlorinating liquid or bleach as your primary source of chlorine, you usually only need some Muriatic Acid and perhaps some baking soda -- rarely would you ever need pH Up or Super Washing Soda.
The primary differences between the light and dense form of sodium carbonate are the bulk density and the particle size and shape. Other than measuring by volume, there is no difference.
Light is about 35 to 47 lbs/ft^3 and dense is 65 to 76 lbs/ft^3.
Washing soda is sodium carbonate monohydrate, which contains 85.48 % sodium carbonate (and 14.52 % water) and a bulk density of about 69 to 75 lbs/ft^3.
If you're thinking about getting a 50 pound bag of sodium carbonate, I would recommend against it. You should not need that much, even over a few years. As long as your TA is right, your pH will stay stable.
Get a box or two of either washing soda and/or Borax if you want, but I don't think that you should be buying in large quantities.
Light is about 35 to 47 lbs/ft^3 and dense is 65 to 76 lbs/ft^3.
Washing soda is sodium carbonate monohydrate, which contains 85.48 % sodium carbonate (and 14.52 % water) and a bulk density of about 69 to 75 lbs/ft^3.
If you're thinking about getting a 50 pound bag of sodium carbonate, I would recommend against it. You should not need that much, even over a few years. As long as your TA is right, your pH will stay stable.
Get a box or two of either washing soda and/or Borax if you want, but I don't think that you should be buying in large quantities.