Painting, re-sealing pool

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spdas

spdas

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Jun 17, 2009
35
Aloha, it has been a little while since I last post. Too much fun in the water, year round!. Anyways, I have the pool that I made from a 20' x8'x8' deep shipping container, that needs to be refurbished. I have some minor leaks, so mostly the Poly Urea lining I used is starting to blister and the blue paint is chipping off. The container is steel and I plan to drain and tear off all the Poly Lining (RhinoLining) and repaint.
OK what is the best way to line and waterproof the steel sides? Also is there any paint recommended that is somewhat more durable? The current topping above lasted 2 years. Ideas?? thanks
Francis
 
The sides are corrugated. The floor is wood and although I sprayed the plastic "bed-liner" everywhere, I suspect the floor will have issues especially where it meets the metal on the sides. 24 months in chlorinated water is bound to take its tole. Even the steel steps that were made from years old painted steel, the paint has flaked off and starting to rust! I am not opposed to having a liner made, but looking for something or method more durable than 24 months. I guess pools are like owning a boat in this maintenance respect.

Francis
 
You read my mind but you need flat walls. I can't see a liner track following the ins and outs for the corrugated steel wall.

1/2" or 5/8" marine grade plywood and a layer of wall foam would hold the pressure, allowing a liner. That would be go for about 10 years.

Scott
 
What about using something like FRP and overlapping edges and sealing edges with clear silicon? Or some other acrylic? I can weld tubing in the corrugated to help even it out. I also have paint that they use at Pearl Harbor shipyards for underwater marks on ships, but might be real toxic with a 5000 year 1/2 life :lol:

francis
 
I don't know that the panels would resist flexing between the corrugations. If you can put marine grade pressure treated or steel studs between, it might work. How wide are the corrugations?

Welding pipe in the spaces would still leave undulations though I don't know how much would be too much for the bead track, which still needs to be attached somehow.

Scott
 
I see issues trying to line the sides and think it might be better to use some heavy duty paint after ripping off the current "bed liner". What I really would like is to find some covering for the bottom. Even a few inches of a concrete-type material. This would seal the bottom and hopefully protect the wood floor from eventually rotting with the water eventually seeping in .

What type of material would work as we do not have temp extreems here in Hawaii and the water is never drained.

thanks
Francis
 
There are companies that resurface pools with a new fiberglass liner, for instance fiberglass over gunite. I learned about this idea from a piece of junk mail from the company that does this in my area. I've got no idea how well this works or if it could be a DIY job.

Here's a link to a similar company I found by googling for "swimming pool +fiberglass liner": http://www.fiberglasspecialist.com/index.htm .

Good luck!
 

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PoolGuyNJ said:
I can guarantee F/G would delaminate and blister. It also needs periodic painting.

Scott
Click to expand...
He's got a Conex box with Rhinoliner that lasted for 2 years for a pool. F/G that delaminates, blisters, & needs to be painted sometimes? How much worse can that be?
 
Let see, $75/gallon for paint(or more due to location), $50 for painting supplies, having to scrub chalkiness between corrugations every week, F/G repairs at $100/hr for several hours plus materials every couple years, drains and refills,

vs

Get the wall paneled, add a liner bead and liner, replace every 10 years or so. Normal pool care.

Scott
 
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