New to pools daddy needs some help

Jul 19, 2011
33
Hello,
First of all let me say that I have read all over these forums and many other resources attempting to learn pool chemistry. My situation is as follows:
Intex 16x48" pool. 1500 gph filter/ pump. Intex salt system.
I filled the pool over 3 days with my well. When it was all said and done, I had a bowl of tea.
I wrapped a cotton towel around my filter, put cotton sock over pool return, added 125 lbs of salt and 16oz of shock. I then ran just the filter and pump for 24 hours. I ended up with blue / light green, slightly cloudy water. Barely anything on my towel or sock. I was thinking it was iron (we don't have any iron issues in the house) but I think it was just sediment and perhaps algae.
So I went ahead and scheduled and ran salt system for 5 hours with filtering. That left me with blue water with a slight cloud to it. I boosted the salt so it ran 10 hours with pump and filter. I had the cover over the pool this time due to mowing. Water is blue with slight cloud.
By the time that cycle finished I acquired a test kit. The water is blue, slight cloudy. It tested out high on chlorine and high on ph. Total alkalinity was high. Pulled cover and swam in it for an hour or so. Nothing irritating. Water felt fine. Still blue, slight cloud.
Today blue, slight cloud. Swam in it then tested it. Chlorine levels way down. Ph still high.
I have ph increased, algaecide, and clarifier now but haven't added anything. The system is doing it's 5 hour run now on the salt.
So that is the history . . Now my questions.
I am unsure where to start. . .I assume ph first. Get it right, then chlorine.
I don't know if when I add the ph increaser if I should turn off the salt and make sure it doesn't run, or it won't hurt if it does. I don't know if I can do multiple things at once . . Add ph increaser and clarifier or shock, etc.
I am working on a pool vac so I don't have one yet. Been skimming, nothing really on the bottom or walls.
My other questions are how did I go so quickly from high chlorine to barely registering? Does the sun really do that? Finally, it is best to do my pool processing at night, morning, or day? I am trying to get a schedule going but want to leave time for the kiddo to be able to swim.
Also, in pretty much filter continuously and make sure it is clean. I have noticed small collections of lint or algae in the filter but overall it always looks pretty good.

I welcome any advice or instruction.

Phil
 
Welcome to TFP!

Without CYA (stabilizer) you will lose all of your FC to the sun in an hour or so, thereby leaving you with no chlorine and a pool water environment that is right for algae growth and pathogen growth.

You need to read Pool School so that you can learn why pool water behaves the way that it does. In the meantime, we can start helping you if you post a set of test results for us. We need to see FC, CC, pH, CYA, TA, and CH. IF your kit cannot test for all of these things, please take a sample of water to the pool store and have them test it for you. The pool store can also test for the presence of metals, something that is always suspect when well water is the source for filling the pool.

Please consider getting a high quality test kit. The TF-100 is a great one and can only be purchase online from www.tftestkits.net.
 
Thanks for taking the time. My current kit does chlorine, ph, and total alkalinity. It is a color match system and not very accurate compared to the one you mention. I will look at getting that one but wondering what to do in the mean time.
I live in a small town and the "pool" store is iffy but I'll see what I can do.
I have read pool school but will go back through it.
Thanks for your time.
Phil



257WbyMag said:
Welcome to TFP!

Without CYA (stabilizer) you will lose all of your FC to the sun in an hour or so, thereby leaving you with no chlorine and a pool water environment that is right for algae growth and pathogen growth.

You need to read Pool School so that you can learn why pool water behaves the way that it does. In the meantime, we can start helping you if you post a set of test results for us. We need to see FC, CC, pH, CYA, TA, and CH. IF your kit cannot test for all of these things, please take a sample of water to the pool store and have them test it for you. The pool store can also test for the presence of metals, something that is always suspect when well water is the source for filling the pool.

Please consider getting a high quality test kit. The TF-100 is a great one and can only be purchase online from http://www.tftestkits.net.
 
Yep....you need cya..............60 -80 ppm. Also may need to increase your run time with the generator to 8 hours. I'd move it to 1o hours maybe untill your cya is added. I think most folks here do the testing at early evening............works for me.
 
Thnx for the help
Phil


woodyp said:
Yep....you need cya..............60 -80 ppm. Also may need to increase your run time with the generator to 8 hours. I'd move it to 1o hours maybe untill your cya is added. I think most folks here do the testing at early evening............works for me.
 
Do you mean pH Minus or Decreaser, not pH Increaser? I assume so, but you had it twice in your original question so just double checking you don't add the wrong one.
 
crek31 said:
Do you mean pH Minus or Decreaser, not pH Increaser? I assume so, but you had it twice in your original question so just double checking you don't add the wrong one.

Sorry . .brain dead from all the reading and learning. I bought ph reducer. My ph levels are high right now.
 
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