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Thread: fighting algae

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    fighting algae

    Moved post. If you even think you might be hijacking, always start your own thread!

    Not to highjack the thread but I have the same problem. Pool was sparkling, just had high FC loss and algae patches to brush every day. I was keeping my fc at or above 5 before starting shock. I'm on my 3rd day/night at or above shock level and still brushing algae off the sides. I'll continue the shock until I pass the ocl test. How long can this process go on until passing? Like I said, it was clear and still is.
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    15,000 gal Sun Fiberglass, Glass/Lexan/Aluminum Enclosed Room, 1.5 hp Pentair Whisperflow Pump, Triton 100- 600# Sand Filter, Heat Siphon Heat Pump, 3 Dbl. Seats w/8 Jets, Waterfall, 8' Interfab Slide, Pentair SAm Spectrum Amerlite Pool Light, Stenner MHP5 Chlorine Pump, Kreepy Krauly Vacuum, Bleach, 50 ppm Borates, TF 100 Test Kit

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    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Re: fighting algae

    Don't know how long it will take, but,

    Can you post a pic of the algae on the wall?

    How old is your FG pool?
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

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    Re: fighting algae

    Quote Originally Posted by Butterfly
    Moved post. If you even think you might be hijacking, always start your own thread!
    Sorry





    I'll try to get some pics tomorrow. The pool is 8 yrs old but inside a glass door/clear lexan roof room. No rain, leaves, dirt...
    Just installed a chlorine pump to ensure a stable FC level in case I miss a day (vacation in 2 weeks). I'll post tomorrows results w/ pics.
    Thanks
    15,000 gal Sun Fiberglass, Glass/Lexan/Aluminum Enclosed Room, 1.5 hp Pentair Whisperflow Pump, Triton 100- 600# Sand Filter, Heat Siphon Heat Pump, 3 Dbl. Seats w/8 Jets, Waterfall, 8' Interfab Slide, Pentair SAm Spectrum Amerlite Pool Light, Stenner MHP5 Chlorine Pump, Kreepy Krauly Vacuum, Bleach, 50 ppm Borates, TF 100 Test Kit

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    Re: fighting algae

    Quote Originally Posted by captjohn
    Moved post. If you even think you might be hijacking, always start your own thread!

    Sorry

    Hey, no worries




    I'll try to get some pics tomorrow. The pool is 8 yrs old but inside a glass door/clear lexan roof room. No rain, leaves, dirt...
    Just installed a chlorine pump to ensure a stable FC level in case I miss a day (vacation in 2 weeks). I'll post tomorrows results w/ pics.
    Thanks

    Good, the algae pics might help. What color is the algae on the wall? Does it brush off easily or do you have to scrub it? Does it make a yellow dust? Have we seen pics of your pool room? Do you have good ventilation in there? I know, sometimes I ask a lotta q's.
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

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  5. Back To Top    #5

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    Re: fighting algae

    Quote Originally Posted by Butterfly
    Good, the algae pics might help. What color is the algae on the wall? Does it brush off easily or do you have to scrub it? Does it make a yellow dust? Have we seen pics of your pool room? Do you have good ventilation in there? I know, sometimes I ask a lotta q's.

    The "stuff" is greenish/brown and brushes fairly easily. It will make a small cloud. I'm suspicious of the staining I have because of the way it streaks and bloches. Citric or ascorbic acid will take it all right off but the "whole sequertrant thing" seems to be a **** shoot since it's one thing I can't test for. I have well water and had Leslies test for metals- .2 (I guess total since they didn't know what metal) and phosphates- 400.
    All the doors on both sides of the room slide and are open with screens but it's 10 degrees hotter in the middle of the day in the room. I'm planning additional ventilation soon. I'll add pics of the entire set up tomorrow. I guess I can put pics on photobucket and copy the links in my reply?
    Thanks again
    15,000 gal Sun Fiberglass, Glass/Lexan/Aluminum Enclosed Room, 1.5 hp Pentair Whisperflow Pump, Triton 100- 600# Sand Filter, Heat Siphon Heat Pump, 3 Dbl. Seats w/8 Jets, Waterfall, 8' Interfab Slide, Pentair SAm Spectrum Amerlite Pool Light, Stenner MHP5 Chlorine Pump, Kreepy Krauly Vacuum, Bleach, 50 ppm Borates, TF 100 Test Kit

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    Re: fighting algae

    I guess I can put pics on photobucket and copy the links in my reply?
    Yep, you sure can! Just copy the IMG code and paste it the post and the image will appear when you hit preview or submit.

    Green sounds like live algae. Are you confident of the CYA level being 50ish?

    Have you added a sequesterant?
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

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    Re: fighting algae

    I've tested the cya 3 times in the last 2 weeks, 50 all 3 times. I've added sequestrants but I feel like I'm wasting money. I follow the ascorbic treatment instructions and I use the type Jason suggests but maybe the algae and chlorine levels are causing problems. That's why I'm determined to shock "to the letter" this time so when I stain treat this time, maybe I'll get some long term results.
    I'll get algae pics tomorrow if it shows and stain pics (they're there now) .
    Here's a couple of older pics before the slide was added to give you an idea on my setup. Very nice in fall, winter, spring. Hot in mid day summer. Planning a whole house attic fan set up soon to really move some air.

    Looking at bath and pump rooms


    Attached to house
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    Re: fighting algae

    WOW, that is fabulous!
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

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    Re: fighting algae

    Thanks!
    Naturally, since I was going to take pics of the algae, there was very little. May have missed it brushing last night. That's a good thing! It brushed off very easily with my hand. My fc loss is still disappointing. Started shock Sun night- 1ppm loss- cc 1, Mon- night 4ppm loss- cc1, last night 5ppm loss- cc1. I'm going backwards! Brought back to 20ppm this morn from 16ppm.





    Here's the stains. They aren't bad on the ridges of the seats and the safety ledge. Also worse at the deep end. Notice the streaking pattern of the stains. Normal???


    The seat doesn't show well but you can see it on the safety ledge on right.


    The sequestrant I use is Aqua Chem Scale, Metal and Stain Control, a blend of polymaleic and phosphonic acids. Dosage is 32oz per 10K gal. I plan to add 96oz after citric treatment which I hope is soon. (after FCL test passes). It says no more than 96oz per 10k gal.
    Any suggestions?
    15,000 gal Sun Fiberglass, Glass/Lexan/Aluminum Enclosed Room, 1.5 hp Pentair Whisperflow Pump, Triton 100- 600# Sand Filter, Heat Siphon Heat Pump, 3 Dbl. Seats w/8 Jets, Waterfall, 8' Interfab Slide, Pentair SAm Spectrum Amerlite Pool Light, Stenner MHP5 Chlorine Pump, Kreepy Krauly Vacuum, Bleach, 50 ppm Borates, TF 100 Test Kit

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    Re: fighting algae

    Something is eating your chlorine and apparently it is very chlorine resistant.

    I suggest you try doing a mustard algae shock. Directions in Pool School; however,

    let's see what others think first. You got a lotta factors to consider.
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

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    Re: fighting algae

    Last month I completely removed my pool light and cord. Had nasty black/dark green algae behind and on it and the cord. My mistake was not completing the FCL test. Chem geek thinks my fc usage should be low since the roof blocks some UV. This indoor pool is definitely a different animal.

    Here's a reply to an earlier users post with some pool history:

    I've had a similar problem with high chlorine usage but had sparkling water. I looked at my pool light since I've occasionally seen sediment come from that area when brushing. I prepared myself with my vacuum hose in 1 hand, screw driver in the other and my wife at the pump/filter control. Vacuuming to waste, I removed the light to find unbelievable, nasty, black, slimy (getting the picture?) stuff, I'm guessing algae. Chem Geek suspects black or heavy yellow mustard. I got 90% of it out to waste but the rest got in the pool. I had to go to filter since I was almost below the skimmer and picked up 90% of that. I backwashed a couple of times until the water was low again. I've raised the FC to 24 (actually landed closer to 30), Mustard Algae level for CYA of 40, and removed the light and all wire and it's in a bucket of 10% bleach/90% water. I think I'll change that water in about an hour and retreat over night, if not all day tomorrow too! I'll throw all the brushes, toys, etc. into the pool tomorrow.

    OK, now to how it got in there. I wouldn't think it would occur in a balanced pool, would it?? Although reading this thread, I guess it can, BUT.......
    6 years ago I was flooded by Hurricane Katrina and my pool was 12' under water. After cleaning potted plants, mud, furniture, shrimp, fish, crabs and salt water from the pool, the water cleared up enough for me to remove the light, clean all the jets, filter, etc... Thinking back, I don't think I cleaned the conduit to the light. The wire was also black and slimy as I pulled it out. I've poured aprox. 96 oz. if bleach into it and plan to pull a rag through it and treat again.
    Hopefully, I've found the cause and can cure it. If you have any suggestions for me, I'm all ears.
    Ping, I hope you have yours under control also but consider checking the light.
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    Re: fighting algae

    Just to add:
    I've started using Poly quat 60 since the last citric treatment almost 3 weeks ago. I think FC oxidizes poly quat but I wonder how long it takes and at what levels. My LAST addition was 16 oz 10 days ago. May account for the FC loss and CC??? Won't be using any more except when doing citric acid treatments.
    15,000 gal Sun Fiberglass, Glass/Lexan/Aluminum Enclosed Room, 1.5 hp Pentair Whisperflow Pump, Triton 100- 600# Sand Filter, Heat Siphon Heat Pump, 3 Dbl. Seats w/8 Jets, Waterfall, 8' Interfab Slide, Pentair SAm Spectrum Amerlite Pool Light, Stenner MHP5 Chlorine Pump, Kreepy Krauly Vacuum, Bleach, 50 ppm Borates, TF 100 Test Kit

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    Re: fighting algae

    I raised the fc level to 30ppm (PC says 29 for a cya of 50) this evening in case I have mustard algae. I've looked at a lot of other threads trying to figure this out. Time will tell.
    Thanks Butterfly for your help
    15,000 gal Sun Fiberglass, Glass/Lexan/Aluminum Enclosed Room, 1.5 hp Pentair Whisperflow Pump, Triton 100- 600# Sand Filter, Heat Siphon Heat Pump, 3 Dbl. Seats w/8 Jets, Waterfall, 8' Interfab Slide, Pentair SAm Spectrum Amerlite Pool Light, Stenner MHP5 Chlorine Pump, Kreepy Krauly Vacuum, Bleach, 50 ppm Borates, TF 100 Test Kit

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    Re: fighting algae

    This is an enigma and a whirlwind. There are so many factors involved.

    Even tho today has been a very hectic one for me, my thoughts kept going back to your pool issues.
    No, I did not solve anything! But, as usual, I am full of more questions and my .02 )

    First priority is getting your water sanitary and it wouldn't hurt one bit if it was easier to manage.

    Is there a possibility of replacing a lot, if not all (water dance), of the water and having metal-free water trucked in? I don't know if that would be cost prohibitive or not, only you know that.

    I understand you have well water and that would be used for top off, but if water replacement could happen, then you should be able to fill, add sequesterant, and shock. Shock level would be low w/zero or low CYA in new/partially new water. Based on PoolCalculator.com shock level with zero CYA is 10 and Mustard Algae shock level is 12.

    About those dad burn stains. Well, you can enjoy the pool and swim with stains, but the pool has to be properly chlorinated to be sanitary. So, forget the stains until after the algae issue is completely gone and the water temp is a little lower. You should not have to be doing AA or citric acid treatments often. Also, doing an AA or citric acid treatment immediately following a shock is not a good idea. When you read the instruction in Pool School for the AA treatment, one of the biggies is trying to s l o w l y raise chlorine, which is dang near impossible in the middle of summer in Mississippi!

    So, I guess what I am thinking is that if you could possibly start off with metal free water and get everything shocked to absolute perfection, add start-up sequesterant dose (& maintain weekly doses religiously), balance and maintain chemistry, then, when weather cools off some, do the stain removal.

    My thinking may be off cuz I am pretty tired, but you gotta get off this merry-go-round and this is the only thing I can think of. I sure hope that this post makes sense to me when I read it later.

    Okay, now I have given you something to think about and I hope it helps.

    p.s. It makes me suspicious that you know way too much about citric acid and that you order 50# at a time! I got my eye on you
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
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    Re: fighting algae

    Quote Originally Posted by captjohn
    I raised the fc level to 30ppm (PC says 29 for a cya of 50) this evening in case I have mustard algae. I've looked at a lot of other threads trying to figure this out. Time will tell.
    Thanks Butterfly for your help
    You're welcome!

    You posted this while I was writing my book in the above post.

    Good for you doing the mustard shock! Don't forget all the little pieces and parts of the directions - like you could.
    You prob know these by heart, but here's a link anyhow. pool-school/mustard_algae
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

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    Re: fighting algae

    Thanks again. I already read it AGAIN an hour ago! LOL
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    Re: fighting algae

    Morning test results disappointing but no visible algae. Lost 5ppm ? FC overnight and cc still 1ppm. Brought FC back up to Mustard level and ALL pool toys and tools are in the pool. I checked my testing skills with high FC level last night. 4 tests, 4 different results. 3 from the same sample, 32.5- 35.5- 31.5. Has to be the powder measurement because I can count, i think. I've done it before at lower levels with no trouble. It was disappointing.

    The only way I know of to truck in water here is to have a fire truck bring it in. I think I have connections to connections that with a little donation I may could get some city water brought in. I'll have to find the test report on the city source to see what kind of goodies it contains. The best I could expect would be a 50-60% drain. We're in a drought but still afraid to lower the level too much.

    I think I'm going to continue my course for a few more days since I am seeing less/no algae. If I can whip the algae/FC loss issues, I'll be more diligent on the sequestrant use in the future since now I know Butterfly is watching
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    Re: fighting algae

    I think I'm going to continue my course for a few more days since I am seeing less/no algae. If I can whip the algae/FC loss issues, I'll be more diligent on the sequestrant use in the future since now I know Butterfly is watching
    Yep, I'm watching!

    Hope you stay the course and shock this mustard algae into submission!

    I know you can do it, but when you finish killing it, [s:3m4e7wsw]I suggest you[/s:3m4e7wsw] do NOT do another stain removal treatment for a while. Because, you know, if you drop your FC for the treatment, the mustard algae will just come right back and......don't even think about it!

    Keep up the hard work {sigh} and keep us posted.
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

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  19. Back To Top    #19

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    Re: fighting algae

    Just an update:
    Started shock last Sun on clear water w/high fc usage and some small daily algae patches. Raised to mustard shock level Wed nite thru Sun morning. No algae on any pool surface since Thurs morning. Water was and is still crystal clear. Haven't passed an OCLT (2-4 ppm losses) yet and CC is still 1ppm but still keeping at shock level.
    How unusual is it for a shock session to last this long when starting with clear water.
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    Re: fighting algae

    Things go more quickly when the pool is getting direct sunlight at least part of the day. Some forms of CC are very difficult to break down without sunlight.
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