I am new to pool care, we have a 16x42 quick set pool. Thanks to the info on this site all is well, the water is clean and clear, the numbers are in the normal range (oh, and 3800 gallons). My question is this, how much borax needs to be added in a pool my size in order to change the feel? The ph is in the normal range (7.4) it would be really only for feel. Then how will it affect the ph?
Borax just for the feel
- Thread starter merritt11
- Start date
Use http://www.poolcalculator.com
Enter the size of your pool, put 0 on the left and 50 on the right for the Borates figure, it will tell you how much to add
You'll need Muriatic Acid also, if you are doing borax, you won't if you do boric acid. It will tell you how much MA you need as well.
Enter the size of your pool, put 0 on the left and 50 on the right for the Borates figure, it will tell you how much to add
You'll need Muriatic Acid also, if you are doing borax, you won't if you do boric acid. It will tell you how much MA you need as well.
Here is the how to add borates information: so-you-want-to-add-borates-to-your-pool-why-and-how-t4921.html
You will have to counteract the ph rise w/muriatic acid, it's part of the adding borates process anyway unless you use boric acid (vs 20/20 mule team-Borax). The pool calculator will tell you exactly how much to add, just enter 50 into the target column and 0 in the now column.
For the feel, it is kinda silky.
For the look, it's kinda glinty.
It also seems to repel bugs. Or attracts them and kills the whole gang. I haven't decided which, but I do know we had a stink bug issue here over the winter of 09 and during the summer of '10 a ton of stink bugs committed suicide in the pool one week. Winter '10 no stink bug was seen in the house, spring '11 I've only found one stink bug in the skimmer and nothing since (about a month). I think he was the lone survivor...
You will have to counteract the ph rise w/muriatic acid, it's part of the adding borates process anyway unless you use boric acid (vs 20/20 mule team-Borax). The pool calculator will tell you exactly how much to add, just enter 50 into the target column and 0 in the now column.
For the feel, it is kinda silky.
For the look, it's kinda glinty.
It also seems to repel bugs. Or attracts them and kills the whole gang. I haven't decided which, but I do know we had a stink bug issue here over the winter of 09 and during the summer of '10 a ton of stink bugs committed suicide in the pool one week. Winter '10 no stink bug was seen in the house, spring '11 I've only found one stink bug in the skimmer and nothing since (about a month). I think he was the lone survivor...
Thanks. I have used the pool cal several times for bleach but had no idea what numbers to put in for borates. One more question if anyone is still here, is the TA all that important? I only have a pretty cheap drop test kit for ch and ph and strips for the rest (I know these arent too accurate but cant afford to do more now).
For TA it depends on the type of pool.
from pool school:
"TA - Total Alkalinity
Total alkalinity indicates the water's ability to buffer pH changes. Buffering means you need to use a larger quantity of a chemical to change the pH. At low TA levels, the pH tends to swing around wildly. At high TA levels, the pH tends to drift up. TA contributes to the CSI which indicates the tendency for plaster damage or calcium scaling.
The ideal TA level depends on several factors. If you are using acidic chlorine sources, such as trichlor or dichlor, keep TA on the high side, perhaps between 100 and 120. If you have a SWG, or if you commonly run water features such as a spa, waterfall, or fountain, keep TA on the low side, between 60 and 80. Otherwise levels between 70 and 90 are good. Pools with plaster surfaces should factor their CSI into the preferred TA level decision. Pools with vinyl liners can tolerate high TA levels reasonably well.
You can raise TA with baking soda. It is often best to make large TA adjustments in a couple of steps, testing the water after each one, as adding baking soda will also affect the pH and you don't want the pH going out of range. If you need to lower your TA level, see How To Lower Total Alkalinity."
from pool school:
"TA - Total Alkalinity
Total alkalinity indicates the water's ability to buffer pH changes. Buffering means you need to use a larger quantity of a chemical to change the pH. At low TA levels, the pH tends to swing around wildly. At high TA levels, the pH tends to drift up. TA contributes to the CSI which indicates the tendency for plaster damage or calcium scaling.
The ideal TA level depends on several factors. If you are using acidic chlorine sources, such as trichlor or dichlor, keep TA on the high side, perhaps between 100 and 120. If you have a SWG, or if you commonly run water features such as a spa, waterfall, or fountain, keep TA on the low side, between 60 and 80. Otherwise levels between 70 and 90 are good. Pools with plaster surfaces should factor their CSI into the preferred TA level decision. Pools with vinyl liners can tolerate high TA levels reasonably well.
You can raise TA with baking soda. It is often best to make large TA adjustments in a couple of steps, testing the water after each one, as adding baking soda will also affect the pH and you don't want the pH going out of range. If you need to lower your TA level, see How To Lower Total Alkalinity."
Agreed water is nicer feeling, but the bug killer effect is awesome....except when they die in the pool. We are finding dead bugs all over the place.
The glinty part is cool if you have a lot of movement and sun. We get prisms all over the pool.
The glinty part is cool if you have a lot of movement and sun. We get prisms all over the pool.
I would not do borates w/o a good test kit. Alkalinity is affected when adding borates, it's part of the process. Walmart carries the HTH 6 (5) Way kit for $20 that works for everything except TC. If you add the DPD test from TFTestkits and a CYA test (HTH only has two CYA tests in it) it becomes a decent full kit. You might consider that route.
Right now I cant spend anymore on test kits, I just have to sort of make due with what I have. Still, I test the TC and PH everyday and use the strips just to get an idea of the rest about twice a week. I check the water a couple times a day for any signs of trouble and of course we are in it often (seven of us,soon to be eight). The TA according to the strips if fine and the PH is very stable so as a guess I would say it is ok. The water is clear and clean (especially for the tiny little filter that came with the pool). So no borates huh? I was really wanting to do that, what might happen?? I dont want to take any risks, its already an investment for us.
If you can test PH and TA reasonably well adding borates shouldn't pose a risk. Just dont over do-it with your small pool. Maybe shoot for 30ppm and see how you like it.
If the pool is going to be a permanent fixture a good test kit is an investment - not really an expense. A tF-100 is about $70 and should last 2 seasons - perhaps next season will be a good time to do it rather than re-up the test strips.
If the pool is going to be a permanent fixture a good test kit is an investment - not really an expense. A tF-100 is about $70 and should last 2 seasons - perhaps next season will be a good time to do it rather than re-up the test strips.
Thanks everyone. I love this site. I laughed with my husband after telling him I think I could be a TFP junkie. I stopped at a local pool store (just to look at the toys) and waited until this poor confused guy came out to tell him about your site, the pool guys in there were scaring the bejeebers out of him and his pool was smaller than mine!! Lightingguy, that was my plan, work with what I have now and buy up next season. Thanks for everyones help.