PH and TA won't move

Jun 9, 2010
9
Have had new 48"x27' AG is service for a week. It was filled with deep-well water which has no issues with scale or iron. After three days to fill the 17,200 gallons or so, it was crystal clear. For startup added two 3" tabs, 1 bottle algicide and 1 pack of shock. Ever since test strips show PH and TA pegged high and total FC pegged low. In the course of the week I have added almost five quarts of muratic acid and added 1 to 2 3" chlorine tabs per day. Readings never change. I am WAY out in the country and getting a water test would require quite a drive. Any suggestions?
 
Do you have a fountain in the pool?

It would be beneficial if you had a good test kit where you could get your numbers on your own. Besides, I trust my own testing more than the 18 year old at the pool store.
 
As others have alluded to, you need to be able to accurately test your water. The fact that you are so remote in your location makes it that much more important that you make the purchase of one.

The TF-100 kit is not available in any store. It must be purchased online at www.tftestkits.net. It is the best kit and the best value out there. Delivery is rapid. Please give serious consideration to purchasing one.
 
Hi volcamp, Welcome to TFP!
Those strips your using don't have a very good reputation for being very accurate. :cry:
A $15-$20 OTO drop test kit from wally world is a lot better than strips! :wink:
I use the TF-100 kit and this kit made me the boss of my pool and now my pool does what it's told and behaves! My pool is perfect all the time now with very little time to keep it this way too!

Chuck
 
Welcome Volcamp! I can't stress enough the addition of a good test kit to add to your pool equipment. I just joined TFP this year and purchased the TF100XL. Best investment I have ever made concerning my pool. My pool looks better than ever. Nice and sparkly! I couldn't have gotten these results without my kit and it is money I would have otherwise spent at the pool store. (Bye Bye Pool Store) The ONLY thing I have went to the pool store for is a new o-ring for my pump basket. If you do decide to purchase one of the recommended kits on this site, grab up the Speedstir if you can. It's way cool and makes testing much easier and fun. I'm pretty easily entertained though.:)
 

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I agree that without precise testing it is sort of like walking in the dark.

If your TA is anything like ours (240 out of the tap, city water from a well) 5 quarts is nothing. I'm on my second gallon of MA. Water tested today at 195 and ph is 7.6.

Use the pool school calculator. For us, it was the same as the pool stores recommendation for lowering TA.

Good luck!
 
Just got my TF-100 and read through the info. My water looks GREAT, but conducted first test and boy the numbers are not good!! CH is at < 0.5, PH is > 8.2 and TA is 180. I am going to start trying to digest the info in BBB for beginners, but if anyone wants to throw a bone my way in te meantime, this newbie would apprciate it.
 
OK here's the numbers:
FC: .5
PH: 8.2
TA: 180
CH: 30
CYA: Must be 0 as dot never disappeared
(Didn't see the need to do CC as my FC nums are so low. Is that proper thinking?)

I'm guessing my first move would be to add MA to drop TA and then airate to see where my PH goes? I'm assuming I need to get some stabilizer in there right away and some bleach?
 
BR...Yeah, I thought that was backwards even as I was typing it. I added about 3/4 of a gal of MA as that was all I had. The pool calc said to add 72 oz. I have not stocked in my supplies yet, so will make a store run after work tomorrow and run another test to see where I'm at. Should I be adding a stabilizer now?
 
Checked my numbers this evening. TA had moved down slightly to 140, PH really came in well to 7.4 and TC up to 1.5. Ran the pool calc and added 1/2 gal bleach and 3 lbs of stabilizer after a good vac and backflush. Real interested to see what tomorrows numbers look like.
 
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