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Thread: Tips and reminders for new Liquidator users

  1. Back To Top    #1
    Water_man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Brookline, MA

    Tips and reminders for new Liquidator users

    You are a third or fourth generation of Liquidator users here and many of the problems and issues which you may be facing now have been already addressed, discussed, and solved here.

    Here are a few tips that may save you a lot of time and aggravation:

    1. Hasa’s (the manufacturer) flow indicators leak. Unscrew the two black tube fittings.
    Wind on them (counter clockwise when looking from the tubing side) two layers of Teflon tape.
    Apply on it liquid Teflon. (Hardware stores carry them under different names).
    Screw them back and let them dry for a day. Do not install until they got dry or semi dry.
    Make sure that the top cover is screwed tight. You don’t need Teflon there - there’s an O-ring

    2. Toss away the original check valves and get new ones from the vendors mentioned in the posts. One of them is American Plastic.
    You may need only one check valve – the “In” – coming from the pipe between the filter and the heater.

    3. If you have a low flow problem you may want to convert the tubing to 3/8”. Check Rabbit’s post about it. It gives you a list of all the parts you need to get.

    4. Hasa’s saddle fitting may be a pain to install and it may leak. Get instead Hayward’s saddle fitting for a chlorinator. It works great.

    5. The easiest way to connect the “out” line to the pump is into the pump’s drain plug opening.
    Unscrew the plug and replace it with a barb (plastics, not brass!) fitting.

    6. Use 12% chlorine instead of 6%. It’s less work!.

    7. Paint the Liquidator sides which are exposed to sunlight by spray paint. You’d minimize chlorine decomp in the tank.

    8. Be careful not to lose the flow indicator’s ball . If you need any part call Hasa and ask for Frankie (it’s a she) : 661-259-5848 ,

    9. As the level of chlorine in the tank goes down you may need to increase the flow rate because consequently the chlorine concentration in the top solution may also go down.

    10. Last but not the least, the “White Stuff” issue.
    If you have it and if it slows down the flow, make sure the pH is 7.2. If it doesn’t help add 50 ppm borates as mentioned in the borates posts (look at chem geek’s numbers, I think it’s in the “deep end”.) You may also get extra benefits from the borates.
    Some of them are subjective - it's not exact science.
    This is my ticket for Heaven (when all's working..) :
    22k Gal gunite IGP, 38 SF Anthony DE filter, 1 HP Hayward Super Pump
    380k BTU Raypak Natural Gas Heater (Model RP405A) and solar cover
    8 gal Liquidator w/ 12% bleach, Dolphin Diagnostic Advantage robotic cleaner. 3800 ppm salt, 50 ppm borates.

  2. Back To Top    #2

    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Dallas, TX

    Re: Tips and reminders for new Liquidator users

    I just wanted to second the borates clearing up the scaling issue. 100% success for me. It was a real pain at first, I regretted purchasing the Liquidator after about a week of fighting scaling, tried borates and it has been working great for months now.
    Built in 1957 44,000 gallon in-ground, Wet Edge Primera Stone in Sky Blue, Intelliflo VF Pump, 600 lb. Pentair Triton II TR-100 Sand Filter, CircuPool RG 60 Plus SWG, TF-100 test kit
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  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Riverside, CA

    Re: Tips and reminders for new Liquidator users

    Can we get a thread like this Sticky at the top?
    It would be cool to have all the links embedded too.

    I'm about 4 days into my LQ startup.

    #1 - The instructions don't say anything about the amount of chlorine in the tank changing the dosage (although that makes total sense)
    #2 - The 3/8" Upgrade kit is not the best fittings. I had an air leak in one before the pump. A nice compression fitting would be better
    #3 - I don't know hot long the clear plastic tubing is going to last in the sun. Do you paint that too, or just replce it every once in a while?
    #4 - I wish I would have put water into the LQ 1 Gallon at a time and marked the outside of the tank.
    40x20 Free Form IG Pool (aprox 29,000 Gal, 140 Perimeter, depth 3'6"-7', Baja Shelf, 8x8 Free Form Spa) - Gunite Shell, Pebble Plaster Finish, Poured Concrete Coping - 3 Deep Heat Returns - Jandy LXi400 Gas Heater (400,000 Btu) - Jandy Variable Speed Pump JEP 2.0 - Jandy CL 600 Filter - HASA Liquidator - Jandy PDA 6 w/ Remote - 4x Jandy WaterColors Pool LEDs - 48" Gas Fire Pit - 6x Gas Tiki Torches - 12'x15' U-shaped BBQ Island (Firemagic Equipment)

  4. Back To Top    #4

    Join Date
    May 2013
    Dallas, TX

    Re: Tips and reminders for new Liquidator users

    Water_man, can you update this post if you're still following. Hasa has updated to 3/8" fittings now. What about replacing the current check valves and other advice? What are the specs required on the check valves (max psi?)? And, where does one find the pump drain plug replacement with the correct fitting?
    In-ground plaster pool, ~18,500 gal, Hayward single-speed pump, Pentair 60 sq. ft. DE filter, Polaris 280 robotic cleaner, SPA, heater (seldom used), use Taylor K2006 series test kit

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