Had a bout with white water mold. Visible evidence is clear, but I can not keep chlorine in pool now. Help...............
White water mold and no chlorine
- Thread starter Pool boy1
- Start date
Welcome to TFP!
Sounds like you need to shock your pool. Before that though, we need you to post a set of test results for us. Need to know your FC, CC, CYA, CH, TA, and pH.
Sounds like you need to shock your pool. Before that though, we need you to post a set of test results for us. Need to know your FC, CC, CYA, CH, TA, and pH.
Fc =0
tc= 0.5
ph= 7.2
cya= 30
Ch, ta ?
Have shocked but it won't hold. I have done bucket test, but even at 80 ppm, the chlorine is consumed in 24 hours
tc= 0.5
ph= 7.2
cya= 30
Ch, ta ?
Have shocked but it won't hold. I have done bucket test, but even at 80 ppm, the chlorine is consumed in 24 hours
Raise your FC to 12 ppm and hold it there until your FC loss is no more than 1 ppm overnight, your CC is 0.5 ppm or less, and you water is clear. Your FC must stay at 12 or higher until you meet all of these aforementioned things.
Looks like you need a good test kit too. You need a test kit that can test for all of the items that I have listed above, as well as being able to test FC levels > 5 ppm. I suggest the TF-100 kit that is available from www.tftestkits.net.
Looks like you need a good test kit too. You need a test kit that can test for all of the items that I have listed above, as well as being able to test FC levels > 5 ppm. I suggest the TF-100 kit that is available from www.tftestkits.net.
If the bucket was kept out of the sun and 80 ppm FC (that you are sure was actually added) was gone in 24 hours (and you are sure it isn't just bleaching out the chlorine test), then if your pool size isn't large you might consider a water replacement since that could be less expensive. However, I'd make sure the alternate explanations regarding chlorine strength and test kit error (bleaching out) aren't what really happened in the bucket test.Pool boy1 said:
Pool is 27,000 gallons. No bleach out. Readings were initially fine and lowered in intervals overnight.
What is your Combined Chlorine (CC) reading? Also, if you have (or can get) an ammonia test kit from the pet/fish/aquarium store, what does it read? I don't think white water mold would generate that kind of chlorine demand, but if the FC level had dropped to zero and if your CYA level had dropped (did it drop from its level in the past?), then bacteria might have converted some or all of the CYA into ammonia and that can have a HUGE chlorine demand. If 50 ppm CYA got converted, for example, then that could require over 120 ppm FC to get rid of.
Do you have a Taylor K-2006 or TFTestkits TF-100 in order to measure such high FC levels? Or were you adding 10 ppm FC at a time or something like that?
Do you have a Taylor K-2006 or TFTestkits TF-100 in order to measure such high FC levels? Or were you adding 10 ppm FC at a time or something like that?
Pool boy1 said:
Thanks for checking that. This explains a lot. You will need to continue shocking to clear your ammonia from the pool. Ammonia is a big consumer of FC in swimming pools. It can also deplete CYA as some have discovered.
It takes about 10 ppm of chlorine to eliminate 1 ppm of ammonia, so you are getting close.
