Question for crookm11 re: PVC plumbing and mods

Jun 15, 2011
22
SE Kansas
Hello:

Now that I have figured out how to keep my pool chemistry where it should be (thanks to this
forum), I would like to make a couple of modifications to my AGP.

I like crookm11's set up, but I need a little more information than I can garner from the great
pictures posted here and from all the posts...

1.) How did you connect the 4 way into the existing Intex thru wall? I took off the eyeball and screen
only to find that the 1.5" PVC is too big around to fit into the opening? Did you grind out the Intex
part and then cement in the 4 way? If so, how far in does the 4 way go? If not, what DID you do?

2.) Where did you get the eyeballs?

3.) I also have a 24'x52" Intex pool, but I'm not sure my holes are as far apart as yours...it's important
because I want to install a wide skimmer to replace the annoying over the wall that comes stock.
Assuming pictures are deceiving and both of our pools' holes are the same distance apart, did
you find the midpoint between the two ports and install your skimmer there? I assume you are
happy about the location of the skimmer? How does the location of the bottom of the skimmer
relate to the return? Or, how do I decide how far up the side of the pool to place the wide mouth
skimmer?

4.) I notice you have the regular intake and the skimmer both going into the pump and then you
have the modified return. Do you use the second intake for the vacuum or do you still use the
skimmer attachment to vacuum?

Additionally, I have the copper "gadget" in my SWG...couldn't I just remove that housing and plumb it with
PVC too? Right now, I have it disconnected.

Thank you for any assistance you can provide...
 

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I too would like to make crookm's modifications to my pool. It would be great if intex would make these features standard, especially the thru wall skimmer.

I know some people like to tinker but many people are like me and dont have the time or skill level.

On that note there is a market on this forum for Crookm. If he has the time I would imagine there is some money to be made by putting together a you tube tutorial. Personally I would be happy to pay upwards of $50 + shipping for the a pre-fabricated 4 way fountain and return if it was plug and play.
 
Hi Guys!! :wave:

Thanks for the comments.

I'm not here to make any money and would love to show everyone how I did my setup.

I have read this post and I want to put together a few pictures and post a step by step instructions and answer the questions. I have a couple of the Intex fittings left and I will modify them with pictures and descriptions. Please give me until this weekend when I can do the modification.

I hope no one is in a big hurry.

:cheers:
 
If you could include the set up showing how to correctly do the foam and pavers it would also be great. I tried setting mine up tonight and gave up on the pavers. Ended up with professionally built up and compressed dirt, covered with 2" pr so crushed rock. On that I put my foam boards, then a tarp, then the pool. Right now i have the legs on top of the tarp and foam and npt currently plannong to cut those around the feet. No water in it yet (will do that tomorrow evening), so if this is not sounding like a good system can someone let me know asap so i don't start filling it and have to drain and modify the set up. Thanks!! Pool is 18' frame Itex (blue).
 
Crookm11:

I have the electrical conduit couplers from Lowe's on order and everything else setting on the kitchen
table...I appreciate your willingness to illustrate what you did to get your fountain set up. I need the fountain
to both cool our pool water down (now 94 degrees) and to help get the total alkalinity down (never less
than 130 so far)...Thank you for your help...
 
just take the sand paper and wrap around the outlet on the 4-way and start turning, it will burn the Crud out of your hand from friction but just keep sanding an fitting in the return til it is snug after you get everything put together just press the 4 way into the return by putting pressure on both sides then i put a couple of zip ties around the rail and pipes you drill the holes in to make it sturdy, by the way i didn't glue anything from the top ball valve up so i could aim the fountain if i wanted.
 

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Depending on the fitting you may not have to do any sanding at all. I had mine with me at the store and found that out (really glad I took it.) I'm modding the intake so I can tee off it and I was able to get a 1-1/2" threaded adapter to fit extremely tight and then my threaded tee from there.
 
crek31 said:
If you could include the set up showing how to correctly do the foam and pavers it would also be great. I tried setting mine up tonight and gave up on the pavers. Ended up with professionally built up and compressed dirt, covered with 2" pr so crushed rock. On that I put my foam boards, then a tarp, then the pool. Right now i have the legs on top of the tarp and foam and npt currently plannong to cut those around the feet. No water in it yet (will do that tomorrow evening), so if this is not sounding like a good system can someone let me know asap so i don't start filling it and have to drain and modify the set up. Thanks!! Pool is 18' frame Itex (blue).


Update for anyone with similar issue: filled pool with legs on top of foam, as described above. Water has been in for ten days and the foam under the legs is not even compressing noticably. So if you have a good hard base like crushed rock, the pavers are probably still preferred, but not as necessary as if on regular soil.
 
Crek31, what was the thickness of the foam board you used. I also want to use a foam base in the future and if pavers aren't required that wood certainly make things easier. Keep us posted if you have any issues. Thanks for the update.

I saw the answers to my question in your other leveling thread. 1.5 inch yellow foam board. Thanks and keep us updated.
 
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