Please evaluate my new build

[beels]

Hi all,
What do you think of this build? This is in the Dallas, TX area.

Construction:
In-ground gunite pool and attached spa, 425 sq. ft with 90 ft. perimeter.
Depth of 3 ½’ to 6’
Estimated volume 12,500 gal.
Tie steel reinforcing on 8” centers all ½” 4 bar beam with all alternates
5- Pool Returns
2- Skimmers
2- VGB Main Drains for Pool
2- VGB Main Drains for Spa
6- Spa Jets
3- LED lights, 2 in pool, 1 in spa


Equipment:
DE filter, 60 sq. ft. FNS Plus
Pentair IntelliFlo Pump
406,000 BTU Pentair Master Temp Heater
1hp Silencer Blower
Polaris 280 Black Max Cleaner
Pentair IC-40 Salt System
IntelliTouch Controller
Automatic chlorinator

The contractor initially wanted to use a Cartridge Filter and a Delzone Ozinator, but based on feedback here, I nixed those items.

One last thing, the contractor wants to put the pool LED light where it is facing the house. I've read it is unsafe to point the light at the house, but the contractor says that glare won't be a problem since it is an LED light; it will be diffused. Does this sound right?

Please feel free to make any suggestions. Thanks!

 

[MajorDIYer]

Looks like a nice pool, congrats. The light thing is mostly subjective. LED's aren't the same as a 500W incandescent blasting at you. IMO it would be better to have it pointing at the house than not have it at all. It does have an off switch, after all. It depends on what is on that side of the house, how you'll use the lights, etc. But if you think it will really be a problem then address it now because it's the last chance you get.

 

[Melt In The Sun]

Looks like a pretty solid package to me; what kind of plaster finish are you getting?

I assume the Polaris includes the booster pump, but it isn't listed separately. If I were building, I would get a cleaner that doesn't need a booster pump, since the pumps aren't terribly efficient. The Pool Cleaner is highly recommended around here, and comes in both a suction-side and pressure-side version (neither of which require a booster).

I'd make sure they use at least 2" pipe, especially on the spa suction/jets.

 

[beels]

Thanks for the responses! Gives me some piece of mind on this build.

Any comments on the filter size? The contractor first said 48 sq ft, however, when I asked if such a strong pump would overdrive that size filter, for example when you are running at high flow rates for the water feature or spa, he said he'd put in a 60 for no additional charge.

Heater capacity OK?

The plaster finish is called Diamond Brite. Is there anything I should know about that?

Yes, he spec'ed the Polaris 280 Black Max with a booster pump. I'll look into the Pool Cleaner. This is something I haven't given a thought to since I had a Polaris w/ booster on a pool 13 years ago and thought it was OK.

Regarding the light, I can move the LED light, but the deepest point will be near the wall farthest from, and facing, the main backyard windows of the house. There will be some scuppers on that wall as well, so it is a logical place to put the light, but if there is a glare, it might be dangerous, because maybe you couldn't see someone in trouble if you are looking from the house into a glare.

Thanks for the feedback and tips!

 

[JasonLion]

A larger filter is always a good idea. 400K heaters are about as large as they come. Getting a large heater is good as the pool or spa gets up to temperature more quickly. The Polaris is fine, TPC is just better, though the difference isn't all that large. If is better if the light fixture is not directly visible from the house.

 

[beels]

Well, construction is underway, but I have tons of questions.

They excavated, ran the rebar, and then the plumbing. Inspection and gunite are next. However, I'm freaked out about a few things:

1) Steel: What does this mean: "Tie steel reinforcing on 8” centers all ½” 4 bar beam with all alternates." I ask, because what I see is this: 1/2" rebar for the top beam and 3/8" rebar for the walls and floor at 10 - 10 1/2 inch centers. However, most of the floor, starting on the ramp down to 5.5 feet, does go into a rectangular pattern of about 5 x 10 inch. Does this sound OK?

2) This will be a salt pool. Are there any considerations with respect to corrosion that I need to take prior to gunite? I read on another forum where a guy was saying that you needed to waterproof the shell and also rust proof the rebar (mine is already developing surface rust.)

3) Should the builder add a layer of gravel underneath prior to gunite?

4) Is it OK that the vertical line to my main drains will be encased in the side of the pool? I would have thought it better to have this outside the shell in case it has to be dug out for service.

5) Would it be better to have a large LED pool light or 2 small spa lights in the pool? Builder is recommending 2 spa lights for more even light coverage.

Thanks!

 

[Lershac]

#1- should be fine unless your have difficult soil conditions
#2 - you are waterproofing the inside of your shell, with the plaster. I have never seen a way to waterproof the outside of the shell. in some areas they use coated rebar which keeps the rust down, however they dont in my area, and pools seem to do ok. mine is surface rusted too, and every engineer I talk to says thats ok.
#4 - depends on your soil conditions, a layer of gravel allows expansive soils (high clay) a place to expand into when it expands. Seen pools done with and without it and they both seem to do fine. I put a 6-8" layer in mine with a perforated pipe I can attach a pump to to draw out water from under the shell if I ever have to drain to prevent "popping".
#5 - it doesnt make a lot of difference, he probably has a truckload of smaller spa leds or saves some inventory headache by standardizing on a particular size.

 

[beels]

Thanks for the response, Lershac.

I questioned the builder this morning on the steel schedule. He said it's not a problem and already over-designed for the pool size, but to ease my mind, he will double the whole pool by adding steel to the tanning ledge, shallow end, and some in the walls, essentially making the whole pool a 5" x 10" pattern throughout. Will this be better? Don't want too much steel.

This area is known for clay, but there really isn't much in this hole. Mostly clay near the surface plus a little at about 2 feet down, then the rest looks like is good soil.

He is recommending the 2x 250 watt lights instead of a single 500 watt one for even coverage since they are LED lights. I guess that sounds OK.

 

[PoolGuyNJ]

#3 rebar 9 to 12" alternate is fine. More doesn't mean much more than a bigger bill. The 2x2 beam with #4 is standard stuff.

A single LED for the pool should suffice. It's not that big a pool.

Do not point it at the house. The glare will annoy the heck out of everyone.

Any floor over 6" thick can house the drain line. Don't use flex though. Hard PVC pipe only. Pressure rated, solid core schedule 40.

The plumber can heat bend hard pipe if he has any real skill. Flex for the spa's air and water loops is OK if it's encased in concrete. Not for Suction lines though.

Scott

 

[beels]

Looks like I'm going to end up with #3 rebar on a 5 x 10 inch pattern. In this picture, you can see the 10 x 10 on the tanning ledge and the 5 x 10 on the majority of the floor. The shallow end in the foreground (to the left, not shown) also currently has 10 x 10 inch pattern.

Builder will string some more steel in the shallow end, tanning ledge, and walls to make it 5 x 10 throughout. Can you get too much steel? Is it strange (or bad) to have the rectangular pattern instead of square shaped?

Thanks.

 

[Nightmare]

That looks like a lot of steel. The bottom of my pool is about 10x10, I think the walls are about 5x10.

 

[Lershac]

dont take this the wrong way, no criticism or concern implied about the integrity of your pool.

That said, having just finished personally laying every stick of rebar in my pool... dear god thats alot of rebar.

 

[Patrick_B]

I think...more steel is more gooder :lol: