Overwhelmed

[gtkamo]

Great Site...Bless you all at TFP

Okay, I give in and will ask...
Have looked at the pool calculator and it looks like I need to add a lot of stuff. What order do I add this stuff?
Have only added salt so far
FC 4 (after adding 2 drops)
CC 2 (after adding 1 drop)
PH 8 (2 drops = 7.4)
TA 180 (Manual says 100-140 which differs from TFP)
CH 150 (Manual states 200-400)
CYA 0? (Water stays clear, dot never disappears)

Second question...I have MS and am scared to death to use the wobbly ladder that came with the pool. Does anyone have an idea of an inexpensive way to strengthen it or replace it with something else?

Would appreciate any help.
Thank You.


Intex Metal Frame 24' X 52"
2500 gph filter
Krystal Clear SWG
Taylor K-2006

 

[JasonLion]

Can you explain what "after adding 2 drops" means? Which chlorine test were you using and you added 2 drops of what? Likewise, I don't understand your PH result, what does "2 drops = 7.4" mean? There are a couple of different chlorine tests and I'm not sure which one you are using so I have no context to try and interpret that statement. But on the PH test, you always add five drops and then compare the color to the color chart, so it doesn't make any sense to say anything about 2 drops.

You need to add some CYA, often called stabilizer/conditioner/cyanuric acid (lots of different names). I recommend raising the CYA level to around 40.

Above ground pools have no need for calcium, despite what the manual says.

The TA level is fairly flexible as long as you don't have a fountain or SWG. It the PH goes up annoyingly quickly you will want to lower TA, but otherwise you don't need to worry about it unless it gets higher or drifts too low.

If your PH test result is correct, you need to lower PH down to somewhere around 7.2 to 7.5.

You want CC to be zero. If your test result is correct (which seems unlikely) you will need to shock the pool.

 

[BadOleRoss]

I am confused with the results you posted using the K-2006 test kit. I think you need to revisit the testing instruction and make sure you are doing the test correctly. The taylor web site has videos that show you how to test if it isnt clear reading the instractions.
FC, going from red/pink to clear after 2 drops will either give you a FC level of 1 or .4ppm
CC, going from red/pink to clear after a single drop is either .5 or .2, again depending on the amount of water in he tube.
PH, you need to add 5 drops and compare the color.

 

[gtkamo]

Sorry I will try to explain further...I also forgot to tell you I live in Northern Michigan
Using Taylor k-2006
This is what I did step by step...hope it's not to confusing. Appreciate any help.

Chlorine (Free, Combined) Test
1. Rinse and fill large comparator tube to desired mark with water to be tested. NOTE: For 1 drop = 0.2 ppm,
Add 2 dippers R-0870. Swirl until dissolved. If free chlorine is present, sample will turn pink.
Add R-0871 dropwise, swirling and counting after each drop, until color changes from pink to colorless. Multiply drops by drop equivalence 0.2

2 Drops of 871 Record as parts per million (ppm) free chlorine (FC).
This is were I came up with 4
Add 5 drops R-0003. Swirl to mix. If combined chlorine is present, sample will turn pink.
Sample never turned pink so I thought the CC would be 0

pH Test
1. Rinse and fill large comparator tube to 44 mL mark with water to be tested.
2. Add 5 drops R-0004. Cap and invert to mix.
3. Match color with color standard. Record as pH units and save sample if pH needs adjustment. If sample color is between two
values, pH is average of the two.
This is were I got PH of 8 To LOWER pH: See acid demand test. Acid Demand Test

1. Use treated sample from pH test.
2. Add R-0005 dropwise. After each drop, count, mix, and compare with color standards until desired pH is matched.
See treatment tables to continue.
After 2 drops of 005 I got 7.4

Total Alkalinity Test
1. Rinse and fill large comparator tube to 25 mL mark with
water to be tested.*
2. Add 2 drops R-0007. Swirl to mix.
3. Add 5 drops R-0008. Swirl to mix. Sample should turn green.
4. Add R-0009 dropwise. After each drop, count and swirl to mix until color changes from green to red.
5. Multiply drops in Step 4 by 10. Record as parts per million (ppm) total alkalinity as calcium carbonate.

TA ResultsThis is were I got a reading of 180 (18 drops of R0009X10)

Calcium Hardness Test
1. Rinse and fill large comparator tube to 25 mL mark with water to be tested.*
2. Add 20 drops R-0010. Swirl to mix.
3. Add 5 drops R-0011L. Swirl to mix. If calcium hardness is present, sample will turn red.
4. Add R-0012 dropwise. After each drop, count and swirl to mix until color changes from red to blue.
5. Multiply drops in Step 4 by 10. Record as parts per million (ppm) calcium hardness as calcium carbonate.
This is how I got 150 (15 drops R0012 X 10)

Cyanuric Acid Test

1. Rinse and fill CYA dispensing bottle (#9191) to 7 mL mark with water to be tested.
2. Add R-0013 to 14 mL mark. Cap and mix for 30 seconds.
3. Slowly transfer cloudy solution to small comparator tube until black dot on bottom just disappears when viewed from top.
4. Read tube at liquid level on back of comparator block. Record reading as parts per million (ppm) cyanuric acid.
Water never turned cloudy and dot never disappeared


Thank you for any assistance. I'm about to tear the pool down.

 

[anonapersona]

Hey, you are doing fine. Relax, we are here to help. Just for reassurance, I think that the pool is not in bad shape at all based on what you say.

You did the testing perfectly, just a tiny typo, FC is 0.4, not 4. All the rest is correct.

Now, how does the pool look? Clear, cloudy, greenish, pea soup? If it is clear, are there any bits of algae anywhere that you see; ladder, seams, any little niche? Does the side feel slimy? Chlorine level is very low, so any of those things are possible.

Next, what is the recommended salt level for that SWG? If you have the manual, that will be there. Also, does it tell you a level for stabilizer or CYA or conditioner? We will use the TFP suggestion if it does not say.

It appears that with some stabilizer the SWG will be able to make enough chlorine to keep up with what burns off by the sun. You may even need to adjust the SWG to a lower setting, thus extending the life of the unit. I am not familiar with this unit so we will need some help there. The Pool Calculator will tell you how much to add. I find the HTH brand at Walmart dissolves easily, may be available other places, I don't know.

And you will need to adjust and monitor the pH. 8.0 is a bit too high. Based on your (very good) testing we know what to do. I will let you try to do the calculations on the Pool Calculator, then we will check them for you. For this you will want pH Down product or Muriatic Acid.

So, based on the Pool Calculator, what does it say to add? (just checking your data) Let us know before you actually add anything.

Just for info; the rest will go like this..... CYA, then pH, then some chlorine, then monitor FC to see if it needs to be turned down.

CYA first. In a stocking hung so the return water hits it. When most of that has dissolved, you can squish it to help, retest pH and TA.

Recalculate the acid needed to adjust pH to 7.3 based on new pH and TA which probably won't have changed but good to know for sure.

Then adjust the pH to 7.3. After the acid circulates for 30 minutes to an hour you can swim. If you brush the pool the time required will be less.

Next, I would suggest adding a bit of bleach just to help the SWG out for now. Add enough regular Clorox bleach to get to 2.0 ppm FC. I think your SWG is going to be putting out a lot of chlorine that will hold now, so although we could go to 3.0 ppm I don't think it necessary.

You can let the TA be for now, it will adjust slowly on its own. Just test pH daily until you see how it rises. I will guess that your tap water has high TA and that may be the source of the TA you have. Although, if you have been pool stored, no telling what was added to the pool. If it is the tap water, TA will rise with water additions, so you will keep an eye on that as rain and fill water will push it up or down.

You will still need to adjust the salt if needed.

Finally, testing FC and pH daily, adjust as needed. You may need to turn the SWG down. You will need to add muriatic acid frequently, and that amount will slow and be less in volume as TA drops.

 

[gtkamo]

Re: Overwhelmed HELP FROM ANONAPERSONA...PRICELESS

Sorry it took a while to get back to you...
Pool is very clear and according to teens no slimy spots in pool. I do not see any signs of algae.
Intex SWG Manual recommends salt level of 3000ppm. I do not have a test for salt or copper but I guess I should get one?
Metal Frame Pool 24'X52" = 12481 gal water and call for 310lbs of salt which I did. We have well water, actually the Fire Dept. came and filled it for us. I have not added any stabilizer or conditioner. I have not added anything other than salt at this point. To nervous I'll screw it up. Also, target amounts are differ from Intex and TFP, which one should I use. Should I use Pool Shock instead of bleach to help raise the raise CYA and lower Ph.

Now Target
FC .4 2 Add 41oz. bleach
PH 8.0 7.3 Add 43oz. muraitic acid
TA 180 Intex recom. 100-180
TFP recom. 60-80
CH 150 Intex Recom. 200-400
TFP Recom. 50-300
CYA 0 Intex Recom. 30-50 67 oz Stabilizer - Can I use a liquid stabilizer?
TFP Recom. 70-80 117oz. Stabilizer

Soooo, it looks like I first add stabilizer, then muraitic acid, then bleach. Am I getting close?

Thank you again for the help. The help you have given me so far is priceless. I am definitely joining the lifetime membership.

 

[anonapersona]

I'd adjust pH first to 7.3, that will help stabilizer dissolve. Give it an hour to mix in well, then add stabilizer. I prefer the HTH brand after using some other type that did not dissolve well. Then when stabilizer is maybe halfway dissolved or better, add the bleach.

The difference in TA or CH is not vital.

The TA is what drives pH up, if your pH is stable at TA of over 100, fine let it be. If you get a lot of aeration, splashing, cooling fountains, whatever, pH will tend to rise and a lower TA will mute that effect. You can go down to as low as 60, just keep an eye on pH and if you need to adjust it, test TA just to be sure how much acid to use. TA controls how acid changes pH. TA tends to go down with rainwater, up if your fill water is high TA, so test that.

CH is only important if it is high enough to cause scaling, which is more likely at high pH and TA levels. So you watch all of them, maybe monthly is enough for CH, depends on your tap water somewhat.