Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amps

Re: Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amp

Nevermind. I left everything attached, unscrewed, and popped it off. That relay definitely needed re-soldering. Thanks for the help.
 
Re: Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amp

Thanks for the info. I am having the High Salt/Amps error. Salt level with test strips is 3000+/- and the diagnostic is saying 0900 ppm. Volts are -40.62v Amps = 10.04A before it shuts down.
I don't have any burn marks on the back of the board and the fuse (Yellow 20A) is still good. Do you think I need to replace the K1 relay? Any help would be appreciated.
 
Re: Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amp

Add me to the list; spent a week fussing with the thing and had two pool guys tell me I needed a new motherboard. Finally pulled the board out and mine looked exactly like the picture. Repair done in ten minutes :party: :cheers:
 
Re: Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amp

I have the same issue removed the motherboard and the k1 joint looks burnt. Is there a wire that attaches or do I just add a drop of solder
 
Re: Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amp

Thanks! I tried looking at the mother board and sure enough, there was a burned spot at the relay connection. A little solder and I am back in business. Is there an accurate way to test the salt level? I installed a new Titanium cell replacement for the T-15 and it is reading 4000ppm. The old cell before it went out read below 3000 and the pool supply person,who has been very reliable, said that it was reading 3300. He said that his device is calibrated. I don't want to drain and dilute unless it is necessary.
 
Re: Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amp

I don't know anything about the TItanium cell, but I would get a good salt test yourself. If it aligns with your pool person, then trust that. In any event, I would never rely on my equipment's measurement of salt level to lead me to drain/refill or even add salt. I always test independently.
 
Re: Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amp

And yet another victory for soldering the K1 relay by a pool tech that knew what he was doing and fixed it without a 2nd thought. In fact, he went right to it and was surprised when I asked if that's what he was doing. My old salt cell is working again and the replacement I purchased has been stored until it's needed somewhere down the road. And I'm going to sign up for soldering lessons. Thanks for the fix info. You were right on the money on this one, and it's incredible 2 techs I had out here for the same problem had no idea it could be a relay. Lesson learned!
 

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Re: Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amp

Thank you for this post, it also resolved my exact issue. I re-soldered the board and replaced the breaker with a 15 amp and now the messages on my unit are making sense again! I really appreciate you taking the time to post.

Dan

DJConn said:
PROBLEM RESOLVED!

The issue was caused by a broken/weak solder point on the K1 relay. I learned from some other discussion boards that this is common problem with the Aqua Logic/Hayward boards. The K1 relay did not need to be replaced. It only needed to be re-soldered. I will attempt to attach a picture. To check if this might be your problem, unscrew the mother board and turn it over, if there is black smoke/burn marks at the K1 relay solder point, this is likely your problem. It was an easy soldering job to heat up the soldering joint and add a little solder. Very simple and it saved me $600+ to replace the mother board.

I am shocked at how common this problem is but did not find any info on this board, so am passing it along. I also learned a couple other things from the other boards. 1st: high amps can "blow" the solder joint and that high amps are most often caused by salt levels being too high. For me, it was my practice to add salt directly to the skimmer boxes. This would certainly cause an extremely high salinity level as the salt was being dissolved and pulled through the system. In the future, I will turn off my turbocell before adding salt. 2nd: the motherboard has a 20 amp fuse on it. Unfortunately it seems the Amp limit on the relay is 20 amps too. It has been strongly recommended to replace the 20 amp fuse with a 15 Amp fuse to thus protect the relay and the K1 solder point. I intend to do this tomorrow.

I hope others find this info useful.
 
Re: Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amp

danaugust said:
Thank you for this post, it also resolved my exact issue. I re-soldered the board and replaced the breaker with a 15 amp and now the messages on my unit are making sense again! I really appreciate you taking the time to post.

Dan
Great first post! Looks like you went straight for the search box, huh? :goodjob:

Welcome! :wave:

You need to upload your profile picture. I imagine you will look like a young BoDarville
 
Re: Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amp

Tingarra, did you ever fix your system? I have the same Volt/Amp readings before the system shuts down. Soldered the joint 5 times without success.
 
Re: Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amp

DJConn said:
PROBLEM RESOLVED!

The issue was caused by a broken/weak solder point on the K1 relay. I learned from some other discussion boards that this is common problem with the Aqua Logic/Hayward boards. The K1 relay did not need to be replaced. It only needed to be re-soldered. I will attempt to attach a picture. To check if this might be your problem, unscrew the mother board and turn it over, if there is black smoke/burn marks at the K1 relay solder point, this is likely your problem. It was an easy soldering job to heat up the soldering joint and add a little solder. Very simple and it saved me $600+ to replace the mother board.

I am shocked at how common this problem is but did not find any info on this board, so am passing it along. I also learned a couple other things from the other boards. 1st: high amps can "blow" the solder joint and that high amps are most often caused by salt levels being too high. For me, it was my practice to add salt directly to the skimmer boxes. This would certainly cause an extremely high salinity level as the salt was being dissolved and pulled through the system. In the future, I will turn off my turbocell before adding salt. 2nd: the motherboard has a 20 amp fuse on it. Unfortunately it seems the Amp limit on the relay is 20 amps too. It has been strongly recommended to replace the 20 amp fuse with a 15 Amp fuse to thus protect the relay and the K1 solder point. I intend to do this tomorrow.

I hope others find this info useful.



I was so excited to see this post and I was sure this was my problem. However I don't see the burn/smoky look on the K1 relay. Could the entire relay be bad? Or do I need to replace the fuse? or both?
 
Re: Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amp

I am having this error message now; I replaced my Hayward Cell with a compu pools generic cell; I did the solder fix which worked for a few days but no the error message is back again. HELP?!
 
Re: Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amp

I got the error back after the tech soldered the K1 relay a few weeks ago. I'll check the fuse before calling the pool co back out. This is really frustrating!
 
Re: Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amp

I had the same issue with the K1 relay. I fixed it today and switched the 20 amp fuse for a 15 amp. So far so good, keeping my fingers crossed.
 
Re: Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amp

I live in SWFlorida and it has been raining like cats and dogs for weeks.
We were away for 10 days and came home to the low salt , reading was in the 2500 range.
I added salt like usual but cannot get it to run again.

Salt was 3100 shortly after adding it and I got the high amps error.

That was a few days ago and it's been raining hard again so now it's reading 2700 once again .



Today I removed board and checked the solder joints , they looked like new. Should I just solder it anyways , I checked fuse and its ok.

Today it reads .
Reading is 2700, +7.92a, 25.65v, temp 113
Salt is on low side but I continue to get high amps.
I just added salt , help.

Today the temp reads 132 degrees, would replacing that sensor help ? Would that have anything to do with the false reading on the High Amps?
 
Re: Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amp

DJConn said:
PROBLEM RESOLVED!

The issue was caused by a broken/weak solder point on the K1 relay. I learned from some other discussion boards that this is common problem with the Aqua Logic/Hayward boards. The K1 relay did not need to be replaced. It only needed to be re-soldered. I will attempt to attach a picture. To check if this might be your problem, unscrew the mother board and turn it over, if there is black smoke/burn marks at the K1 relay solder point, this is likely your problem. It was an easy soldering job to heat up the soldering joint and add a little solder. Very simple and it saved me $600+ to replace the mother board.

I am shocked at how common this problem is but did not find any info on this board, so am passing it along. I also learned a couple other things from the other boards. 1st: high amps can "blow" the solder joint and that high amps are most often caused by salt levels being too high. For me, it was my practice to add salt directly to the skimmer boxes. This would certainly cause an extremely high salinity level as the salt was being dissolved and pulled through the system. In the future, I will turn off my turbocell before adding salt. 2nd: the motherboard has a 20 amp fuse on it. Unfortunately it seems the Amp limit on the relay is 20 amps too. It has been strongly recommended to replace the 20 amp fuse with a 15 Amp fuse to thus protect the relay and the K1 solder point. I intend to do this tomorrow.

I hope others find this info useful.
 
I had the same issue with the K1 relay. Been battling this issue for 4 months, quotes of $900-$1200 to fix from local pool services. Spent 15 minutes and some solder and issue resolved....

Thank you so much for passing on this information.
 

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