Can anybody identiy this pool light??????
- Thread starter waterman74
- Start date
I'm pretty sure that one of the following is the current replacement for that light.
http://www.pentairpool.com/pool-owner/p ... te-154.htm
http://www.pentairpool.com/pool-owner/p ... ight-7.htm
I am pretty sure that the original manufacturer was American Products, which was acquired by PacFab, which is now owned by Pentair. I think that the original model was called the AquaLight or SpaBright.
http://www.pentairpool.com/pool-owner/p ... te-154.htm
http://www.pentairpool.com/pool-owner/p ... ight-7.htm
I am pretty sure that the original manufacturer was American Products, which was acquired by PacFab, which is now owned by Pentair. I think that the original model was called the AquaLight or SpaBright.
Not necessarily a 100w spa bright. If it is in a pool it may very well be a 250w bulb.
Some retailers no longer carry the old style bulbs and have moved to the new LED style.
Some retailers no longer carry the old style bulbs and have moved to the new LED style.
Cool thanks for the fast replies...it is a 100W r-20 12v bulb.... need the gasket for the lens (white) and niche bracket/ring for a lack of better term, it has 6 screws and the lock-in screw threads are on the bottom with the clip on top if was installed right. Looking to maybe up grade to LED.
To clarify it is a small inground pool with jets...sort of an oversized spa from the mid 80's ...fiberglass.
I think that the AquaLight and the SpaBright are essentially the same light except that the AquaLight is available with a brighter bulb for pool use.
I think that if you want LED, you could change to the IntelliBrite Spa Light.
I think that if you want LED, you could change to the IntelliBrite Spa Light.
My cord is a little worn, is there a way to repair this or does the whole thing half to be replaced?
A little history. When I bought the house there was a pretty good leak in the niche. After investigating it, it looked like someone had already put 2 part epoxy around the conduit and the back of the niche effectively sealing the cord to the conduit. I added more epoxy to this mess. I'm not sure what is behind the niche after the conduit where the cord goes through. I assume there was some sort of gasket or o-ring. I found the box for the cord it is about 12' away. Does the niche come out from the water side of the pool or from the backside under ground? Maybe I should drain the pool and pull the whole niche. Or am I getting into a super major job here?
Thanks
A little history. When I bought the house there was a pretty good leak in the niche. After investigating it, it looked like someone had already put 2 part epoxy around the conduit and the back of the niche effectively sealing the cord to the conduit. I added more epoxy to this mess. I'm not sure what is behind the niche after the conduit where the cord goes through. I assume there was some sort of gasket or o-ring. I found the box for the cord it is about 12' away. Does the niche come out from the water side of the pool or from the backside under ground? Maybe I should drain the pool and pull the whole niche. Or am I getting into a super major job here?
Thanks
The cord is an integral part of the fixture. If it's deteriorated, replace the fixture. Your fixture appears to be quite old and has quite a bit of corrosion. A new one will look so much nicer.
If the niche is compromised at the conduit leading to the deck box, I typically use butyl tape wrapped around the cord to plug the junction there and seal the opening. This eliminates the need for epoxy, which is a real beast to get off when changing the fixture. The cord is still able to be removed from the conduit by peeling away the butyl tape. Wear nitrile gloves as the tape is a bit on the sticky/gooey side.
Changing the niche is not an easily accomplished task. Lots of digging and concrete breaking/chipping on a concrete pool. Liner pools will likely lose the liner.
Scott
If the niche is compromised at the conduit leading to the deck box, I typically use butyl tape wrapped around the cord to plug the junction there and seal the opening. This eliminates the need for epoxy, which is a real beast to get off when changing the fixture. The cord is still able to be removed from the conduit by peeling away the butyl tape. Wear nitrile gloves as the tape is a bit on the sticky/gooey side.
Changing the niche is not an easily accomplished task. Lots of digging and concrete breaking/chipping on a concrete pool. Liner pools will likely lose the liner.
Scott
ok, just to clarify. The conduit is just basically a pvc pipe attached to the niche that the cord is run through, so the conduit runs all the way to the box, right? So as long as the conduit is not broken and leaking then the cord and conduit do not need a gasket...in other words the conduit would have pool water in it up unto the level of the pool? Is that how it is supposed to work? So if there is a leak where the cord goes into the conduit, then the conduit is broken somewhere between the back of the niche and where the conduit comes above ground and goes to box. Am I thinking right?
Yes, that is correct. The conduit should be watertight and the water level in the conduit should be the same level as the pool water level. The junction box is above the water level and has a rubber stopper around the cord and bonding wire to prevent water surges due to water pressure changes in the pool due to people jumping in and so forth.
The cord and conduit do not need a gasket.
The cord and conduit do not need a gasket.
ok, thank you, that explains a lot, gonna see how much epoxy I can remove and I'll use some die to make sure no leaks and replace the fixture.... I'm guessing I'll have to pull the new wire through by cutting the old fixture off and taping the new cord to the old and just pulling it through.
Correct. Turn off breaker, Cut the cord at the light. There will be 3 wires and a nylon string. I strip back about 10 inches and cut the nylon string and 2 of the 3 wires. I do the same on the new light, tie the two wires together with s square knot. "right over left, left over right" then tape real good with electrical tape. If you have a helper it is a lot easier for them to gently push the wire while you are pulling from the junction box.
Per most electrical code the junction box should be 18" above water level.
I place the new fixture on the pool deck and remove the slack in the wire. Then before I cut the cord at the junction box I wrap the new cord around the light tightly and install back in the pool wall. If you just install the light in the niche and then pull all the excess cord out and cut it, you'll have to a) drain the pool to change the bulb or b) tie s string to the end of the wire in the junction box and pull the light out onto the deck.
When you go to buy the new light check on a light cord stopper. They come in different sizes depending upon the size of your conduit. Well worth the $2-3 just in case the electrician missed a glue joint in conduit during install.
Per most electrical code the junction box should be 18" above water level.
I place the new fixture on the pool deck and remove the slack in the wire. Then before I cut the cord at the junction box I wrap the new cord around the light tightly and install back in the pool wall. If you just install the light in the niche and then pull all the excess cord out and cut it, you'll have to a) drain the pool to change the bulb or b) tie s string to the end of the wire in the junction box and pull the light out onto the deck.
When you go to buy the new light check on a light cord stopper. They come in different sizes depending upon the size of your conduit. Well worth the $2-3 just in case the electrician missed a glue joint in conduit during install.
After more work today, I noticed that the grounding screw in the niche is almost covered in 2 part epoxy... will this effect the safety of the light? Also, I need the niche sealing ring, when I go with LED will I need another ring, or will the replacement ring that I buy now work with it?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DS ... Version*=1
Thanks again for all the help!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DS ... Version*=1
Thanks again for all the help!
Hopefully the screw is there. The AB Epoxy shouldn't hurt anything. As long as the screw is tight you should be ok. Why do you need a replacement ring? The existing niche should be ok. If just the bottom tab that holds the light in place is gone, you can use a light wedge http://cgi.ebay.com/POOL-TOOL-LIGHT...904?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eb2d93ca8 and save a few bucks.
The fixtures themselves, either LED or Halogen are the same size so the ring will work with either one.
The fixtures themselves, either LED or Halogen are the same size so the ring will work with either one.
The ground screw is there and tight. The thread in the locking ring screw hole is corroded away. I guess I could just tap it, but then I would need a new screw, it is my understanding this screw works with the niche as part of the grounding system. I guess as long as the metal is the same it shouldn't matter?
When tight the light should be touching the ring anyway. The screw holes ar notorious for corroding and breaking. In the past I have used a bigger screw, your local Lowes or Home Depot should have a nice selection of stainless steel screws that would work fine. Or use the light wedge. Replacing the ring is just too much trouble. Wait until you replaster the pool to do that 
.
You'll like the LED. 1) says power and 2) the 30-40,000 hour bulb life vs the 3,000 hour halogen means MAYBE you kids will have to replace it. LOL
. You'll like the LED. 1) says power and 2) the 30-40,000 hour bulb life vs the 3,000 hour halogen means MAYBE you kids will have to replace it. LOL
Roger that. Any opinions on this...obviously you toss it when it burns out.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... K:MEWAX:IT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... K:MEWAX:IT
waterman74 said:
1st of all it's 12v DC so it won't work on your pool, unless you install a transformer.
If you want to go the colored LED route, get a regular R20 fixture and order this Color Splash 3G http://cgi.ebay.com/COLOR-SPLASH-LE...ultDomain_0&hash=item3eff680f48#ht_2975wt_905
Last years version is the 2G http://cgi.ebay.com/Color-Splash-LE...ultDomain_0&hash=item56440d3bfa#ht_1293wt_905 A little cheaper but if you have multiple lights, pool, spa etc, they 3G & 2G won't "talk to each other" if you will. They won't sync together. But if I recall you only have the one light in your pool, so save $70 and order the 2G
Or just buy this SAL light brand new http://cgi.ebay.com/Pentair-Spectru...502?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a67f3b30e
