General Cost of the BBB Method

Jun 7, 2011
90
Columbus, GA
I have been thinking about switching to the BBB method but I am concerned about the cost. Currently, I just use Xtra Blue Shock ($4.99) once every two weeks and a chlorine puck in a floating chlorinator(sp?) and change it every two weeks ($2.99) and that keeps my pool crystal clear. So on average, I spend around $16 per month on supplies. I need to know how expensive is a testing kit and how many uses I would get out of it. Also how much baking soda, bleach, or borax would I need for a month and the estimated cost. My pool holds 5,061 gallons of water and is an 16' X 48" Intex Metal Frame Pool with a 14" Intex Sand Filter. thanks.
 
The best test kits run around $70 and usually last a couple of years. You have done well, so day to day costs for BBB will be very similar. The big advantage of the better test kit is preventing things from going wrong. You haven't mentioned having any problems yet, but the approach you are using doesn't always work and when it has problems the differences will be much larger.

Most of the time you won't need to add anything except bleach, somewhere around 2 1/2 cups a day.
 
JasonLion said:
The best test kits run around $70 and usually last a couple of years. You have done well, so day to day costs for BBB will be very similar. The big advantage of the better test kit is preventing things from going wrong. You haven't mentioned having any problems yet, but the approach you are using doesn't always work and when it has problems the differences will be much larger.

Most of the time you won't need to add anything except bleach, somewhere around 2 1/2 cups a day.
Thanks! I going to give it some thought but I'm trying to justify changing but I've been using the same method for 4 seasons now and have never had any problems except for a few broken Intex pumps but those are an easy fix.
 
Be aware that the Xtra Blue Shock contains copper and cyanuric acid. Over time, both of those chemicals can build up to problem levels. For the BBB method, you won't need much baking soda or Borax. You should only need minor amounts of bleach or liquid chlorine. You should be able to match or beat your current cost.
 
JamesW said:
Be aware that the Xtra Blue Shock contains copper and cyanuric acid. Over time, both of those chemicals can build up to problem levels. For the BBB method, you won't need much baking soda or Borax. You should only need minor amounts of bleach or liquid chlorine. You should be able to match or beat your current cost.
I've been doing the same thing for 4 years and haven't had any problems. What problems do you speak of?
 
carterj92 said:
JamesW said:
Be aware that the Xtra Blue Shock contains copper and cyanuric acid. Over time, both of those chemicals can build up to problem levels. For the BBB method, you won't need much baking soda or Borax. You should only need minor amounts of bleach or liquid chlorine. You should be able to match or beat your current cost.
I've been doing the same thing for 4 years and haven't had any problems. What problems do you speak of?
Copper gets into people's hair and causes it to contain some green. It might not be noticeable for a while, especially if swimmers have dark hair. However, it is unpredictable when it will cause a noticeable reaction. Light colored hair, such as blonde, will show the green much better.

Cyanuric acid slows down the reaction of chlorine and if the FC levels are not kept at 7.5 % of the cyanuric acid level, you will be at risk for developing algae.
 
anonapersona said:
How is fresh water added to that pool? Do you get snow that dilutes what is in the pool, or do you empty and refill it in the spring?
I fill the pool up every spring with purified city water. My city, Columbus, has one of the most advanced water treatment facilities in the US. just as a side note lol. Oh and it doesn't snow in GA very often.
 
JamesW said:
carterj92 said:
JamesW said:
Be aware that the Xtra Blue Shock contains copper and cyanuric acid. Over time, both of those chemicals can build up to problem levels. For the BBB method, you won't need much baking soda or Borax. You should only need minor amounts of bleach or liquid chlorine. You should be able to match or beat your current cost.
I've been doing the same thing for 4 years and haven't had any problems. What problems do you speak of?
Copper gets into people's hair and causes it to contain some green. It might not be noticeable for a while, especially if swimmers have dark hair. However, it is unpredictable when it will cause a noticeable reaction. Light colored hair, such as blonde, will show the green much better.

Cyanuric acid slows down the reaction of chlorine and if the FC levels are not kept at 7.5 % of the cyanuric acid level, you will be at risk for developing algae.
Didn't think about that lol but my wife is a blondie and hasn't had any issues. Bet she would be upset to come out with green hair though :hammer:
 

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For the reasonable cost ($70) of a good test kit, spread over two seasons (if you swim year round, cost is even cheaper), and some $0.99 Aldi's bleach, and maybe some Borax from time to time, I can assure you that you'll come in under that $16 / month budget AND have less issues with your pool. I too had no issues using almost same method you were (except for type of shock), until one day we went swimming and we had pink "floaties" (algae) all over the place!! What a letdown! I decided to "school" myself on taking care of my pool the right way and then I found TFP and the BBB Method and have never looked back. Now, taking care of the pool is easier and not a puck floater in sight!
 
carterj92 said:
I fill the pool up every spring with purified city water. My city, Columbus, has one of the most advanced water treatment facilities in the US. just as a side note lol. Oh and it doesn't snow in GA very often.

If you dump and refill each spring, you may find that your parameters do not get out of whack by the end of the season. It takes time to build up to problematic levels if you start with fresh water and then add CYA and copper containing products slowly. Were you to start by bringing CYA up to target levels right away with Stabilizer, then using the trichlor puck, you might find that CYA levels were out of range before the season was done. That would depend on how much water was lost to splash out along the way. Refill after splash out dilutes CYA but refill after evaporation does not.
 
I disagree on the cost savings aspect. I am currently using a gallon a day in my pool, and while it is keeping things crystal clear and my test numbers look good, it is coming in at around $7-10 a week in bleach. I am wondering if I shouldn't raise my CYA to reduce the amount of bleach I am using. I do live in a hot climate (past 7 days have been over 100) and the pool sits in the sun all day until evening.
 
ROTJob said:
I disagree on the cost savings aspect. I am currently using a gallon a day in my pool, and while it is keeping things crystal clear and my test numbers look good, it is coming in at around $7-10 a week in bleach. I am wondering if I shouldn't raise my CYA to reduce the amount of bleach I am using. I do live in a hot climate (past 7 days have been over 100) and the pool sits in the sun all day until evening.
Jacking CYA from 60 to 100 won't reduce the chlorine loss by much. Last summer I was up to 150+ on CYA, and I still lost 2 ppm FC/day. All it will do for sure is make your minimum FC level much higher, out of range for the color-matching test block, so it will be FAS-DPD every day. And should you get lazy and miss a day or two and get an algae outbreak, you'll be buying bleach by the barrel, not the jug, to shock.

I'd stay at 60ish, which is I think the last number you posted. 70 wouldn't be outrageous, but I'd keep that 10 ppm to spare, in case I wanted to leave town some weekend and use a floater with pucks.
 
Jacking CYA from 60 to 100 won't reduce the chlorine loss by much. Last summer I was up to 150+ on CYA, and I still lost 2 ppm FC/day. All it will do for sure is make your minimum FC level much higher, out of range for the color-matching test block, so it will be FAS-DPD every day. And should you get lazy and miss a day or two and get an algae outbreak, you'll be buying bleach by the barrel, not the jug, to shock.

I'd stay at 60ish, which is I think the last number you posted. 70 wouldn't be outrageous, but I'd keep that 10 ppm to spare, in case I wanted to leave town some weekend and use a floater with pucks.



OK point taken. Does it sound out of line for me to be using a gallon a day though? That is quite a bit higher than I was expecting to use, and really isn't nearly as cheap as I had expected. I am being use to use 6% bleach too, although it is usually walmarts great value brand.
 
carterj92 said:
I have been thinking about switching to the BBB method but I am concerned about the cost. Currently, I just use Xtra Blue Shock ($4.99) once every two weeks and a chlorine puck in a floating chlorinator(sp?) and change it every two weeks ($2.99) and that keeps my pool crystal clear. So on average, I spend around $16 per month on supplies. I need to know how expensive is a testing kit and how many uses I would get out of it. Also how much baking soda, bleach, or borax would I need for a month and the estimated cost. My pool holds 5,061 gallons of water and is an 16' X 48" Intex Metal Frame Pool with a 14" Intex Sand Filter. thanks.

My pool is just a bit larger than yours. I estimate I have 5400 gallons in it. I went with the Taylor K-2006 and it was around $60 with shipping.
I average 2 cups of bleach per day. Occasionally 20 ounces. Great Value bleach at my walmart is 1.3 cents per ounce. For a nice even number, I round up to 25 cents per day in chlorine. This comes out to be about $7.50 per month in bleach. You are only addressing the chlorine component, so that is the number to compare.

I do not use any baking soda or borax. I do have a high TA, and my pH rises pretty fast, so I am using some muriatic acid to control that. Are you testing your pH? How is it? If it is at a good number and staying constant, you probably will have no need for MA.
 

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