Lowering TA, dry acid OK, or MA better?

chiefwej

LifeTime Supporter
TFP Guide
Jun 12, 2011
3,761
Tucson, AZ
Pool Size
19500
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
I have been trying to get my TA down. I started around 240 and got it down to 100. But now that I have added borates its setting at around 120 or so and acid and aeration are bringing it down but oh so very very slooowly. I found some left over dry acid in my pool shed. Would it work as well or better than this weak 14.7 MA I've been using? Is the best method just drop pH to 7.0, then aerate to raise it back to 7.5, then repeat ad nausium? This is going to take a lot of acid and a lot of patience.

My CH runs very high here and from what I understand it is important to keep my TA at or below 100 to help prevent scaling.
 
We don't recommend dry acid typically because it is expensive when compared to muriatic acid and it adds sulfates to the pool water. With muriatic acid being more "pure" by only adding a hydrogen ion and a chloride molecule, there is less mystery behind what it does. If you just want to get rid of your dry acid stock though, I see no problem with it. I would stick to using MA though once your dry acid supply runs out.

Lowering the TA can be a long process for some people. It may takes several weeks to get it down where you want it to be so just be patient. You get it there. :goodjob:
 
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