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Thread: Lowering TA, dry acid OK, or MA better?

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    chiefwej's Avatar
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    Jun 2011
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    Tucson
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    Lowering TA, dry acid OK, or MA better?

    I have been trying to get my TA down. I started around 240 and got it down to 100. But now that I have added borates its setting at around 120 or so and acid and aeration are bringing it down but oh so very very slooowly. I found some left over dry acid in my pool shed. Would it work as well or better than this weak 14.7 MA I've been using? Is the best method just drop pH to 7.0, then aerate to raise it back to 7.5, then repeat ad nausium? This is going to take a lot of acid and a lot of patience.

    My CH runs very high here and from what I understand it is important to keep my TA at or below 100 to help prevent scaling.
    chiefwej
    Tucson, AZ
    16x36 rectangular (19k) Pebble Tec play pool/spa, Pentair Intelliflo VS 011018, Super II 2hp (spa), Aqua Rite T-15 SWG, Pro Grid 60 DE, Hayward H400 & Heliocol Solar heating, A&A infloor system, fill water w/high CH and TA, 50 ppm borates,TF-100 test kit

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    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Denton, TX
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    5,061

    Re: Lowering TA, dry acid OK, or MA better?

    We don't recommend dry acid typically because it is expensive when compared to muriatic acid and it adds sulfates to the pool water. With muriatic acid being more "pure" by only adding a hydrogen ion and a chloride molecule, there is less mystery behind what it does. If you just want to get rid of your dry acid stock though, I see no problem with it. I would stick to using MA though once your dry acid supply runs out.

    Lowering the TA can be a long process for some people. It may takes several weeks to get it down where you want it to be so just be patient. You get it there.

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