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Thread: Raypak C-R265-EN Question

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    apwelb's Avatar
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    May 2011
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    Raypak C-R265-EN Question

    Hi.

    I have finally won pool wars. Chlorine has held overnight and CC is 0.

    Time to turn on the heater, right? Not so fast. We live in MN, the home be bought was a short sale. The pump and filter were new but the heater is old.

    When I popped the top the heat exchanger tubes were covered with debris and the baffles are rusted to the point they need to be replaced. I vacuumed everything out, including 2 mouse nests, and then moved to the burners.

    The burners are all in good shape (SST) but the burner spacer is trashed. There was significant rusted material in the bottom of the unit.

    So, right now I am at about $100 in replacement parts (baffle kit and spacer) which I am OK with. I pressurized the unit and it is not leaking.

    Can anybody else give me some ideas, given the corrosion problem I clearly had, of what else to check before I commit to these parts? I would like this thing to get me through this season, will likely replace in Spring. Clearing up my swamp was an expensive endeavor (I would term it brutal until I found this site), kids are in camp and jetting all over the country ($$$) so I would love to hold this expense off until early Spring.

    I guess what I am asking for is some insight from guys who have been down this path, pitfalls, etc. The voice of experience, ya know?

    I have some HVAC background, but don't know specifically what I should be concerned with on a heater like this. BTW, it is a RP2100 with electronic ignition.
    30,000 gallons, Hayward S244T Sand Filter; 160 lpm, WhisperFlo; 1HP, IG, vinyl

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    Melt In The Sun's Avatar
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    Re: Raypak C-R265-EN Question


    Sorry; can't help.
    11,200 gal, Pebble-Tec; Tristar 2-speed 1hp - Swimclear 325 ft2 cart - SWG - A & A in-floor cleaner - Heat pump. For the poolside cooking, a Yoder Wichita and a Big Steel Keg!
    TF Test Kits -- PoolMath -- Pool School
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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: Raypak C-R265-EN Question

    It is always difficult to tell with a heater. Some rust and debris in there is normal. What really matters is how the metal inside the heat exchanger is holding up, which is almost impossible to examine.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    Re: Raypak C-R265-EN Question

    Welcome to TFP!!

    You should get a prize for pressure testing the heat exchanger

    As long as it held, you should be fine to use the heater this season.

    *Just because it held, doesn't mean that the tubes are 100%, they may be weakened by chemical abuse and fail at any time - keep an eye out for water puddling under the heater, but I think you'll be fine for this season
    Luv& Luk
    -Ted

    Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill a couple of libraries :-D

    POOL SCHOOL, TF Testkits, Jason's Pool Calculator, CYA vs. cl chart, (Just a few DARNED handy links!)

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    apwelb's Avatar
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    Re: Raypak C-R265-EN Question

    Thanks, guys. I stopped checking this thread because I figured I hit the ball too far into the outfield so I appreciate the replies.

    I ordered the burner spacer and am going to have to do a little fabrication to get it in there right because I am not spending >$200 on a complete burner tray. I bought angle iron that matched the specs of the baffles and will cut and install them when the spacer shows up.

    It's finally warming up here in MN, and it is dry enough I have had the cover on it the last 2 days so I am hoping this brought the temp a little, as well. The only one complaining about the temp is my wife.........but you know how that goes.
    30,000 gallons, Hayward S244T Sand Filter; 160 lpm, WhisperFlo; 1HP, IG, vinyl

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