New pool owner need help for the filter

[duanrt]

I bought the house several months ago and it has a 30-year old swimming pool. The filter is Anthony Apollo VA-26. The heater is broken. There is additional pump for Polaris 380.

The pool service company came to open the pool 4 days ago, and the filter looked working fine. Today I tried to use Polaris 380 to clean the pool. There are a lot of leaves and debris in the pool. After about 3 houses, I took the Polaris out of the pool. However, when I came to the filter, there was water flow coming out the joint between the basket and the motor (see the picture). I am not sure if this is because I used buster pump of Polaris 380.

The filter pressure is about 10, and the pool service told me I should do backwash if it reaches 13. I thought the water flow might because the pressure is too high. So I tried the backwash. There is a note (please see the picture too) from the previous owner about how to do backwash. So I shut off the pump, open the basket and clean the leaves out, turn the silver valve and pull up, then turned on the pump. There is clear water come out of the waste pipe, and there is still water coming out from the joint between basket and motor. So I shut off the pump, pushed down the silver valve and turn to lock it. But the water still came out of the waste pipe. I do not know what is going wrong. Now I have to turn off the pump to avoid the water come out of both the joint and the waste pipe.

Can any one help me to figure out why there is water flow from the joint? In addition, why the clear water keeps coming out of the waste pipe after I shut off the silver valve?

The pool service company does not work until next Monday. When I tested the pool yesterday using TF-100 test kit, every number looks fine except the FC which is 25 and that is normal since the pool service was trying to shock the pool when they opened it. I am not sure how the pool will turn to if I keep the pump shutting off until next Monday. Hopefully someone here can help me to find the problem.

I do not know if I did back wash correctly. I could not find “cote value”and“separator tank” as the previous owner mentioned, so I just skipped them when I tried the backwash. Can anyone help me to figure out what they are from the picture?

Thanks!

 

[257WbyMag]

It sounds as though this "joint" area is no longer intact and it makes me wonder if you need to replace the gasket in this location. Hard to tell from the picture.

 

[PoolGuyNJ]

This appears to be an old Anthony pool system!

I call your pump an acorn grinder. The pump lid may say ANTHONY, Aqua-Flo, or nothing.

The Pump:
The leak may be from worn seals (Super-Pro series 1000), an O-ring between the main shaft and it's extension, or the volute gasket (Super-Pro G-44-9). Parts for this old pump are pretty hard to come by.

The Filter:
This is an Anthony Apollo series filter with a brass, push/pull valve. You need new O-rings for the plunger. Aladdin makes a GO-KIT with both 1-1/2" and 2" in it. GO-KIT37-9 is their part number. In the mean time, put a winter plug in the waste port to stop this leak. When the grids start letting DE get past or the fabric has stretched, the only part number I can find is for a new grid assembly.

The Heater:
This is based on Hayward's old Fire Tile series. It should be replaced with a new unit. Long in the tooth is an understatement.

Actually, the entire equipment pad except the Polaris Booster, is pretty much obsolete and has been for quite some time.

Scott

 

[duanrt]

Thanks.

I will ask a pool contractor come to take a look tomorrow. Now I just shut down the pump and hope the FC, TA, etc will not turn worse soon.

I assume the filter system is about 30 years old. Not sure if I am ready to replace the whole system yet. That will cost some money.

This appears to be an old Anthony pool system!

I call your pump an acorn grinder. The pump lid may say ANTHONY, Aqua-Flo, or nothing.

The Pump:
The leak may be from worn seals (Super-Pro series 1000), an O-ring between the main shaft and it's extension, or the volute gasket (Super-Pro G-44-9). Parts for this old pump are pretty hard to come by.

The Filter:
This is an Anthony Apollo series filter with a brass, push/pull valve. You need new O-rings for the plunger. Aladdin makes a GO-KIT with both 1-1/2" and 2" in it. GO-KIT37-9 is their part number. In the mean time, put a winter plug in the waste port to stop this leak. When the grids start letting DE get past or the fabric has stretched, the only part number I can find is for a new grid assembly.

The Heater:
This is based on Hayward's old Fire Tile series. It should be replaced with a new unit. Long in the tooth is an understatement.

Actually, the entire equipment pad except the Polaris Booster, is pretty much obsolete and has been for quite some time.

Scott

 

[mynewpool]

I thought my stuff looked old.

 

[JasonLion]

A separator tank is a secondary filter for filtering the backwash water. I don't see one in your pictures.

I can't quite see in the pictures, but it looks like there is a valve between the main valve and the backwash outlet pipe with a handle that turns, it is labeled switch in your photo. I believe that is the cote valve (actually gate valve) described in the note. Assuming I am interpreting this all correctly, you need to close that valve to get water to stop coming out of the backwash pipe.

All of that equipment is way past the time you would expect it to wear out. Repair parts are going to be very difficult, if not impossible, to obtain. The main valves leaks internally and I suspect that even replacing the o-rings will not completely fix it. Likewise the pump shaft seal is shot and needs replacing, if you can find a replacement part that is compatible. It will cost some money, but I would replace everything on the equipment pad as soon as practical.

 

[hoosierrun]

I have this exact system and have had it for 30+ years. I do my own repairs because every pool guy I've asked won't work on it and insists on upgrading everything at over $1000!!. The pump to motor seals do go bad and when I disassemble them and remove the brass stub shaft from the bronze impeller, I am always having to replace the stub shaft (threads are gone) and end up tapping out the threads on the bronze impeller. Other than that, these things go forever. I replace the motor bearings about every 8 to 10 years and the filter grids about the same time. Most parts are still available online, but becomming increasingly hard to find.