Three Years In…still confused

[abcfire54]

This is our third year and I feel like I am still barely surviving with balancing the chemistry of our pool. I have a few questions for you experts

current test results: using Taylor Test Kit K-2005
TA: 160
PH: 8+
FC: 1
Salt: 2500 (from PDA readout)

1. so far in the past month we have added 7-9 gallons of Muratic Acid to lower the TA. I balanced today and according to the scale we have been/are following, I show we need to add another 2.5 gallons. am I on the right track
2. I typically test TA first, it is usually high, which means we add MA and if I am lucky(and TA balances) I check PH. It seems if TA is in acceptable range usually PH is acceptable as well.
3. We have a PDA which is where I look at chlorine or salt level
4. I absolutely CAN NOT do the CYA test, dont know if its the water or me….but the black dot never disappears
5. one month of abnormally high TA has led to calcium scaling on our tile line. How do I get rid of it?

these are the only things I typically test, sometimes chlorine if I think there may be a problem is that horrible?

Can someone help with ideal levels for my pool…also, should I add CYA or boost or shock it. We have done that in the past which has helped. I dont feel like the water looks the perfect blue that it has in the past…sometimes it seems to have a green tint…??

Help!!! I appreciate all you can offer. TIA

 

[JohnT]

Chlorine is the #1, #2 and #3 thing to test for. Chlorine makes your pool safe to swim in, and keeps the water clear. Along with chlorine, CYA is important to the sanitization of your pool. If the dot doesn't disappear, you need more. Mix the reagent with the pool water, wait 30 seconds, mix it again and test. Empty the tube and fill it again until you have a good feel for it. TFTestkits.net used to have standard CYA solutions so you can practice your testing method. That might be worth a try.

Your TA is at a "don't worry about it" level. The only real effect of TA at that level is a little upward pressure on the pH. Keep pushing your pH down to 7.1-7.4 faithfully (2 or 3 times a week) and the TA will come down. Maintaining a low pH is the only way to lower TA, and the more time the pH spends around 7.1, the more quickly the TA will go down. Since you mention salt, I assume you have a SWCG, and that will drive pH up on its own. 2500ppm for salt is low for many SWCGs.

Scaling isn't a TA problem, although high TA can increase the likelihood of scaling. Scaling is a calcium hardness issue, and with a Pebble Tech pool, you should keep a close eye on your calcium level to protect the pool surface.

 

[dmanb2b]

Excellent advice from John

On the CYA, unless you have added any stabilizer or use Trichlor or Dichlor for chlorination, you may have non. As far as the PDA readings, I would still double check FC and PH with your k2005.

Do you have high PH/TA fill water? Any chance the pool has a leak with an autofill device masking it?

 

[Butterfly]

Welcome to the forum

The first thing you need to do is lower the pH to around 7.2 ish, and never let it get over 7.8.

The Taylor 2005 kit is incomplete. You need to get an FAS/DPD test so you can test up to 50 ppm FC & CC.
You can order one from Dave @ http://www.TFTestKits.Net

Here's a visual from Taylor Technologies on the CYA test that has helped many of use learn how to read the test.
Scroll to the bottom to see pics:
http://www.taylortechnologies.com/Chemi ... ntentID=44

Have you seen our Water Balance for SWG's?
Great info for SWG users!

What is your CH test #?

Until you know your pool's personality, you should test FC/CC & pH daily!

I don't know your CYA level, but I do know your FC of 1ppm is too low!

 

[heatmisr]

Not to mention that most SWG's require a CYA level of 70-90. It is very important that you know that number. If you don't feel comfortable doing the test yourself, take your water to the pool store to be tested. It won't be a wasted trip because I suspect your CYA is 0-20 and you will need to get some stabilizer to bring that number up.

 

[waskydiver]

Your scaling is caused primarly by four factors:

Calcium Hardness
pH
TA
and Temperature

Lowering any one of them lowers your CSI, and reduces your scaling.

If your CH is high you likely have a high calcium content in your source water (unless you have had a long run of using cal-hypo), so that's going to be difficult to lower... Think... reverse osmosis... Yea.

Don't think you want to add ice to lower your temperature.

Lowering your TA is somewhat time consuming.

pH... You already have very high pH, so add some acid, and you have reduced your CSI.

Keep on maintaining your pH at a level of about 7.2. High TA will drive up your pH. Keep pushing it down with acid. Acid will reduce your TA. Reduced TA will stabalize your acid demand and further lower your CSI. Problem starts to take care of itself just by maintaining your pH.

I try to keep things simple, and I do not like to chase numbers. I am boarder line OCD, and if I get into my "perfectionist" mode, I will drive myself and everyone around me crazy.

Instead of running to the pool calculator, and trying to get the numbers 100% exactly right all the time, I just test my chlorine and my pH daily, and make minor adjustments just in order to make things better... Not perfect... pH a little high... that's about 3 "glugs" of acid. Next day, things will be better... Not perfect but better. Then I make things a little bit better based on those results.

Once ever other week or two weeks, depending on usage and conditions, I'll run a full set of numbers for a sanity check. If those numbers suggest anything out of wack, I make adjustments to make my numbers better... Again... better... not perfect.