does anyone know where I can get unstabilized tabs? I have an offline chlorine feeder which I have used but now battle the high CYA levels. I am working the CYA down (currently at 100) but want to keep using the chlorinator I have.
unstabilized tabs
- Thread starter kingbink
- Start date
No such animal exists that you can use in that feeder.
There are rumors of slow dissolving Cal-Hypo tablets but they have their own problems and can't be used in a feeder where trichlor was ever used.
There are rumors of slow dissolving Cal-Hypo tablets but they have their own problems and can't be used in a feeder where trichlor was ever used.
ok thanks... Everytime I use liquid chlorine the pool is cloudy for several days and I have to run the pump 24 hr/day. Is there something I am missing. All other levels are in check.
That's probably not the case. liquid chlorine doesn't cloud in a pool wherein all the parameters are normal. What is you CH and pH and TA
Tell us more about the specifics when you add the chlorine. What type is it? How soon does it cloud up? How long does it last? How many times has this happened to you?
The chlorine is liquid that I buy from the pool store. This is the 2nd time it has happened. It clouds up instantly. The first time it happened was last Tuesday. I just got it 95% clear. I just put in approx. 2.5 gallons from a new 5 gallon container and it is cloudy again.
I am not using tabs because my CYA level was 100
I am not using tabs because my CYA level was 100
was at 7.3 over the weekend from the shock treament last week. I also have been putting in an algecide for 1 month.
Yea... I am thinking algae too.
At 100 CYA, you would want to be shooting for a 12 FC... ALL the time. That's kind of tough.
So, when you add in 2.5 gallons of liquid chlorine from the pool store, that very well may be 12.5%, and depending on the size of your pool, may be taking you up high enough to kill the algae that has gotten a hold.
And, the clouding you are seeing is algae corpses.
I would suggest doing a proper shock, holding it at shock levels until you do not see any loss over night. Then maintain at 12 FC.
If you are still seeing clouding under those conditions then the mystery will have deepened.
At 100 CYA, you would want to be shooting for a 12 FC... ALL the time. That's kind of tough.
So, when you add in 2.5 gallons of liquid chlorine from the pool store, that very well may be 12.5%, and depending on the size of your pool, may be taking you up high enough to kill the algae that has gotten a hold.
And, the clouding you are seeing is algae corpses.
I would suggest doing a proper shock, holding it at shock levels until you do not see any loss over night. Then maintain at 12 FC.
If you are still seeing clouding under those conditions then the mystery will have deepened.
Could it be calcium cloudiness? Your pH seems high to me, and would go up even more when you add the liquid chlorine, which tends to raise pH for a while before settling back down. If your pool is very warm then this is more likely. My pool recently went white and cloudy as the water warmed up, but returned to normal when the pH came down with acid addition. I am guessing this is a white cloudiness not green, because green would not be much of a mystery.
it is a white cloudiness. I did add 15 lbs of calcium 2 weeks ago as it was low. Maybe I should use a calcium based powder vs. liquid ? Not sure if it is algea or calcium at this point. I have a new bottle of algicide should I dmp that in the pool?
The best way to find out if this is an algae problem or not is to do an OCLT (overnight free chlorine loss test), see this article in Pool School. If you are losing a significant amount of chlorine overnight it is algae, and if you lose none, or a minimal amount of chlorine, overnight it is something else like calcium clouding.
A quicker way to check for calcium clouding would be to lower the PH to 7.2. If it is calcium clouding the clouding should go away as soon as the PH gets down around there. Lowering the PH won't hurt anything, but it won't help if the problem is algae.
A quicker way to check for calcium clouding would be to lower the PH to 7.2. If it is calcium clouding the clouding should go away as soon as the PH gets down around there. Lowering the PH won't hurt anything, but it won't help if the problem is algae.
ok.. I will lower the PH since I do not have the test kit suggested. Thanks for the tip
Please dilute your water sample 50% with distilled water. Your CYA level may be higher than 100, which is the max it can be tested to.
You really don't have a choice but to dilute unless a reverse osmosis service is in in your area.
Scott
You really don't have a choice but to dilute unless a reverse osmosis service is in in your area.
Scott
kingbink said:
In the vast majority of pool situations algaecide isn't necessary.
What kind of pool is this?
Now would be a good time to create a signature with your pool/equipment specs. Go to User Control Panel, then Profile, then Edit Signature.
I will update my signature.. great suggestion.
I added 2 gallons of acid and the pool immediately cleared up. I will test it tonight and adjust accordingly. Thanks for all of the help
I added 2 gallons of acid and the pool immediately cleared up. I will test it tonight and adjust accordingly. Thanks for all of the help
