Easy Set pools are shaped like half a hershey's kiss so the water volume calculator doesn't quite work but if you look at the Intex site it will tell you the exact capacity of your pool.
Given that I just stuck in 18x48 into the pool calculator without checking the Intex site it says your pool holds roughly 7600 gallons.
With no CYA it will be difficult to hold the chlorine by day so you'll want to go to Walmart if you have one near and purchase some stabilizer (or a pool store). Add about a pound (the canister is 4 pounds) for now which should get you up or around 25-30ppm of CYA which is plenty for now while you wait for the SWG (you'll need more CYA later, so buy the CYA now and expect to use about 3/4 of it by the time you start the SWG). Then you'll want to use bleach to shock, and maintain it at shock level (10 without CYA, 12 with CYA) until you can hold chlorine overnight and no chloramines are present.
Calculator says to add 1 gallon 1 quart, or 1.2 (128 oz) jugs of 6% bleach to reach 10ppm, for 12ppm (after CYA is in the pool) add 1 gallon 2 quarts or 1.5 (128 oz) jugs of 6% bleach.
Now, armed with that to begin with you'll need a good test kit and you also need to go to Pool School (link in upper right of this page) and read read read so you know why everyone here will ask you to supply accurate test results. The strips are notoriously inaccurate and they can not give the people here enough information to help you much with the pool, especially with water issues.
But, even without them you can use the pool calculator to give you a start which is basically what I did by entering your estimated volume and suggested levels. So, if you can do the CYA first thing tomorrow, wait on the bleach for now till you get the CYA sock into the pool (fill a sock with CYA, put into skimmer or hang from the ladder and squish it after soaking for a while, it'll disperse faster that way) and then aim for 10-12ppm chlorine to begin the shock process. While at Walmart, buy 3-4 gallons (actually they are more than a gallon) of 6% bleach. You will need it all.
If you can get a Taylor k-6000 test kit at one of the pool stores nearby, do that or just order the TFP-100 which is the same but has more reagents and less or rather none of what you don't need. These two kits include reagents to test for total chlorine and free chlorine which will tell you if you have chloramines. If you have chloramines (combined chlorine or CC) it means there's an algae bloom which is what shocking eliminates. As such, without the test to tell you if you have them or not, you won't know if you need to shock, or when to stop shocking but with a new setup that does not have chlorine, algae is most certainly already blooming so your first action will be shocking regardless.
Basically, read up on Pool School and it'll start to make more and more sense as you apply the method.
You CAN start without the test kit and you absolutely do need to get some chlorine into the pool now before it gets really bad, but you won't be able to know when to stop shocking without it. Once you understand why and how, you won't want to test without it and once you're all dialed in, you won't need to test but maybe once a week or maybe every couple weeks as long as you maintain it daily and the water is sparkly and clear.
An alternative for the time being is the HTH 6 way test kit found at Walmart which has everything you need except for the Total Chlorine test, and it's Free Chlorine test only goes up to 5 which means you won't be able to test for 12ppm shock level without some elaborate dilution and it can not tell you what the chloramine (CC) level is. It also has two CYA tests in it which come in handy but once they're gone, they're gone so use them only after the CYA has dissolved so you won't waste them. Assume you have 0 CYA now, it has to be added so if you know how much you add to the pool, you won't really need to test for CYA for the time being.
As you may have noticed, your dip strips gave you ranges only, which is incredibly unhelpful. There's a difference between PH at 7.2 and 7.8, and it's considerable. Very high TA could be 300 or 120... who knows? They just don't tell you enough to even begin to accurately dose your pool. Alkalinity tells you how difficult it is to change the PH, the higher the alkalinity, the harder it is to change ph. PH too low or too high, causes the eye stinging the kids complain about. As you can see, every little bit matters so get a good test kit, determine exactly where you want your numbers to be (pool calculator) and everything will fall into place.
I know it's late, you're 2-3 hours ahead of me all zonked out, but chances are you'll get up and check here for an answer first thing so I have tried to provide as much info to get you started for the time being. I'm no expert, but I am into my second year of BBB and I think I'm getting the hang of things enough to help you get started while the experts get their beauty sleep and maybe this will save them some typing for now.
Here's the link to the Pool Calculator so you can see where I got the numbers for you and start to use it yourself.
http://www.poolcalculator.com/
