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Thread: No chlorine

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    No chlorine

    We have a 20,000 gallon in-ground salt water pool. We have a Jandy AquaPure 1400 chlorinator and an AquaLink automated system. Earlier this year, we had to replace our filter (no big deal) and then we got the dreaded 172/185 codes and replace the flow sensor. All seemed good as we were back online and no other error codes. In the process of changing out the sensor, my husband looked at the salt cell and saw no visible scaling. We were told to shock the pool several times with di-chlor and add stablilzer and then it should start producing chlorine. We still have no chlorine reading and the water has turned slightly cloudy as a result.

    We have shocked the pool about 4 times in the last 10 days, added salt, added stabilizer and calibrated the salinity of the AquaLink system to what the pool sample read. I have questioned doing all of this when our pH and alkalinity is still high.

    Like I said, we are getting no codes or service lights to indicate that anything else is wrong with the system. We can see the cell on light, the flow light on, cell reversing and resting lights so we don't think anything else is wrong with the system.

    My question is can extremely high alkalinity affect chlorine production? We only have the test strips at home, but the last several times we've taken a pool sample to the local pool store, our alkalinity has been 239, pH above 8.0, stabilizer at 139, total chlorine at .89 and free chlorine at .52. I read online that it the alkalinity gets too high that chlorine production only reaches about 10% of what it should be if that. Could this be our problem or do we need to look at other culprits?

    After the last pool sample above (6/3/2011), we were told to add 2 lbs of shock and run the filter but put the chlorinator to 0% for 24 hours then put the system to boost for 24 hours and then back to our normal schedule of 65% production for 10 hours a day. After adding the shock, our test strips read between 1.00 and 3.00 chlorine so I knew something wasn't right.

    Can anyone give any suggestions? I am my wits end and don't know what to do.

    Thank you for your help.
    Mandy
    20,000 gallon fiberglass inground pool * Hayward sand filter and pump * Jandy Aquapure 1400 SWG * Jandy Aqualink Control System

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    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
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    Re: No chlorine

    You have several things going on. First is that you need a good test kit of your own. I can't stress that enough.

    Your stabilizer is much too high. You need to drain half of your water and replace it to get it to a manageable range. Once you do that you need to get the pH down to 7.2 using muriatic acid. By adjusting your pH to 7.2 every time it gets to 7.6 or so you'll lower the TA.

    I think you have an algae bloom going on and once you get the other issues fixed we attack that using liquid chlorine.
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: No chlorine

    What Bama Rambler said. You have a couple of problems all at once. Your PH is way too high, you should keep it below 7.9 at all times. Your TA is too high, which is causing PH to go up rapidly. You almost certainly have a mild case of algae. Your CYA level is too high, which makes it almost impossible to fight the algae.

    The largest problem is your high CYA level. With CYA that high you are going to have a very difficult time getting everything fixed up. I suggest you replace water until CYA is below 100.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
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    Re: No chlorine

    thanks so much! you guys are so nice to respond so quickly. I will purchase a test kit from www.tftestkits.net


    When we add the muratic acid, is there a particular way we should add it and how much do we add? We've never used it before.

    If I understand correctly, we should replace 1/2 the water in the pool and then add the muratic acid until we get pH to 7.2? Once we get to 7.2 should I repost for more instruction? Will we then notice chlorine production?

    You guys know so much, but how did you both know from my numbers that we have an algae bloom? Amazing! I need to learn from the masters.

    I will keep posting and learning!
    Mandy
    20,000 gallon fiberglass inground pool * Hayward sand filter and pump * Jandy Aquapure 1400 SWG * Jandy Aqualink Control System

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    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
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    Re: No chlorine

    Purchasing the kit is the best thing you can do.

    You should add it slowly in front of a running return.

    Once you get the kit, run the tests and post the results.

    It's not just your numbers that tell us what's going on, it's a combination of everything you said and seeing past experiences.
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 2hp/¼hp SPL Power-Flo 2-speed pump. 200sqft Waterway Cartridge Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
    Pool School ----- Pool Math ----- TF-Test Kit

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: No chlorine

    Quote Originally Posted by ml143333
    thanks so much! you guys are so nice to respond so quickly. I will purchase a test kit from http://www.tftestkits.net


    When we add the muratic acid, is there a particular way we should add it and how much do we add? We've never used it before.
    I just scoop up a bucket of pool water, measure out the acid over the buicket, in case of spills, rinse the cup in the pool, cap the jug, then pour the bucket into the pool in front of a return, as far as I can reach out over the pool. Then I rinse the bucket out in the pool.
    If I understand correctly, we should replace 1/2 the water in the pool and then add the muratic acid until we get pH to 7.2? Once we get to 7.2 should I repost for more instruction? Will we then notice chlorine production?

    You guys know so much, but how did you both know from my numbers that we have an algae bloom? Amazing! I need to learn from the masters.

    I will keep posting and learning!
    Once you replace half the water, you need to get it all mixed well so you can get a good sample. Brushing, vacuuming, and of course, having the pump on all do this. Get a full set of results to be sure the CYA is where you want it, then add acid. I'd shoot for 7.5, just in case the volume calculation isn't right. It's easy to add more acid to get it down to 7.2; you don't want to overshoot and then waste time trying to get it back up. At that point, your pH and CYA are set, you can ignore TA and CH for now, which leaves you with shocking to kill the algae and raising the salt level to replenish that which you drained out. I wouldn't even think of turning on the SWG until the pool is clear, balanced, and salted properly.

    But one step at a time. Drain & refill, then get some test results before you start pouring anything in.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
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  7. Back To Top    #7

    Re: No chlorine

    Well...I think we figured out why we were getting no chlorine. We got the dreaded 123 code on Sunday, 6/12/2011. Today, my husband is going to try and clean the cell even though there is no evident scaling. We will probably have to order the cell tonight or tomorrow is my guess.

    This has been an expensive year so far. First we had to buy a new filter ($500), then the flow sensor ($220), and now probably a salt cell ($547). Oh well...at least we know the problem now.

    Will post again once we either clean the cell or get the new one.

    Thanks.
    Mandy
    20,000 gallon fiberglass inground pool * Hayward sand filter and pump * Jandy Aquapure 1400 SWG * Jandy Aqualink Control System

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