Chrlorine to SWG Conversion

jfgreco

0
LifeTime Supporter
May 25, 2011
59
Northern NJ
Pool Size
30000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I have been digging through topics to see if anyone specifically talks about the conversion process.

I stopped by the pool store today to check something out and was talking with them and they mentioned that you had to shock the pool to get the salt converting. I haven't seen that mentioned anywhere else.

After we get the SWG plumbed in, run the pump for 24 hours to get the salt dissolving? Leave it on filter or recirculate?

Thanks in advance for any assistance. Still trying to figure it all out.
 
Thank you for your guys feedback. I am installing a Hayward Aquarite and I was reading through the manual and it had the following:

If the pool does not have new water, add 1 quart (1 liter) of metal remover and 1 quart (1 liter) of non-copper based algaecide to the pool, per manufacturer's instructions. This ensures a quick, troublefree transfer to the Aqua Rite system.

Any thoughts on this process? Is it really required?
 
Required? No, definitely not. There are two attitudes to this kind of thing. They are proposing adding algaecide and sequestrant just in case. We prefer to only add things we know are needed. Our approach saves you money the great majority of the time, but every now and then you can be surprised and having used the extra product would have saved you some trouble down the line.
 
How long has the water been in the pool and how are you chlorinating it now?

Unless it's fairly new water don't assume the salt level is zero. Even then it's best to have it tested before adding any to it.

I've never added salt to our pool, but because I use liquid exclusively the salt level is 1600 ppm per the Taylor K-1766 kit.

If I were you, I'd order a good test kit and throw the salt test in there too. Oh and the Speedstir! If you don't alreaady have them, of course!
 
We use pucks right now as I was waiting to do this conversion. The water is old. I bought the house last year. It was lowered for winter and topped off by the melted snow. I have had to add some here and there do to evaporation. I have the TF100 and will have salt test strips today.
 
Since you're using pucks, be sure to get a good reading on your CYA level. Pucks contain Cyanuric Acid to help stabilize the chlorine. Cyanuric acid is usually only reduced by replacing water. Puck use over a long period of time can generally cause CYA levels to rise slowly to a point where they are too high.

CYA too high will cause your chlorine to be less effective. CYA too low will cause your chlorine to be dissipated by the sun more quickly.

With a SWCG system, you want your CYA level around 70-80. See http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/water_balance_saltwater_generator for a complete explanation of the special considerations for SWCG's.
 
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