Newbie Question on pool opening

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bevj_2

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Jun 7, 2011
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Hi All,
I have read through these boards and have found a LOT of useful information, but have some questions. I am a new pool owner, inground 25,000 gal. vinyl, sand filter. Pool was green. Took sample to pool supply place and had the following readings....

FC - 0
TC - 0
CC - OK
TA - 210
pH - 8.2
Calcium hardness - 59
CYA - 9
Copper - 0
Iron - 0

The pool "tech" told me to do the following - 1) add 2 1/2 lbs pH minus, let run 2 hours, then 2) add 2 jugs chlorine and 1 bottle algaecide. Run 24 hours and backwash. Then add 1 jug chlorine daily until clear. I did this, and have swept the pool twice today to stir up algae/debris, the 24 hours just ran up, and I just backwashed. The pool is a light blue/green color, but there is a white film-like substance on the surface of the water, that is not soapy...if you touch it it dissipates. Is this just the chlorine in the water? Also, should I now add another jug of chlorine or wait until tomorrow night? I'm not sure if it is possible to over-chlorinate a pool...:) Any help/suggestions is welcome!!!!
Thanks!!!
 
The white film is not chlorine.

Do you have a way to test your water? Really need that to know what to do next, otherwise you are just guessing. Keep running your filter to get everything, including the film, out of the water. You very likely need more chlorine, but that is just an educated guess without numbers.
 
Yes, I am learning that these "pool techs" don't know squat....:) I am also going to invest in a test kit....thanks for that advice!!!

At any rate, I realized that I added 1 qt of algaecide to 25000 gal pool and wonder if that was too much, and what might be causing the white film? Directions stated to add 14oz per 10000 so I thought the amount was right, but it got worse overnight and almost looks soapy....what can be done to get rid of that? Any thoughts?

Thanks so much for everyone's input so far!!!
 
Okay, just got back from getting water tested, and here are results....

FC - 1.2
TC - 1.2
CC - 0.0
TA - 209
pH - 8.2
CYA - 10

Person at pool place told me that their system high pH level only goes to 8.2 so our original pH level was probably higher, so I just added another 2.5 lbs of pH minus to pool. The water is cloudy, and a pretty bluish/green color. I bought a test kit so will test the pH level again in 2 hours and add more pH minus if needed. The funny thing is, she told me to add more chlorine 2 hours after adding the pH minus, and I called her out saying, "Shouldn't I get the pH level right first before doing that???" She gave me a funny look and said..."Um, yeah, so..." Anyway, I can't thank you guys enough for your advice. Now, my question is what level of chlorine should I go for? I know the acceptable range is 1-4ppm, so according to the test, my chlorine level now is good. But if the water is cloudy, will chlorine alone clear it up, and should I keep adding more? Or should I add some clarifier? Also, should I be concerned with the CYA level for now?

Thanks again for all advice!!
 
For a change, I agree with the pool store. That 1.2 FC won't be there for long once the sun hits it. You may not even have to wait two hours to add bleach, just be sure the filter is running, and give the whole pool a good brushing. By the time you've brushed it all, the acid should be mixed.

Personally, I use muriatic acid and 12.5% liquid chlorine. Both get right to work, they don't need to dissolve, they just need to get mixed in well.

CYA is too low still. Have you studied those articles with the links above?
 
Get the PH down(7.2-7.4) then I would get the FC level up to around 15 and hold it there while you gradually add CYA. You can add CYA and CHL at the same time, but remember CYA will take a few days to dissolve. When FC holds overnight, the algea is gone and should start clearing up in a few days and you can then focus on getting the right CYA level.
 
loungelizard said:
Get the PH down(7.2-7.4) then I would get the FC level up to around 15 and hold it there while you gradually add CYA. You can add CYA and CHL at the same time, but remember CYA will take a few days to dissolve. When FC holds overnight, the algea is gone and should start clearing up in a few days and you can then focus on getting the right CYA level.
Click to expand...

Okay...that makes sense....I guess that's where I get confused; the matter of timing of when to do certain things, and if adding certain chemicals together is okay. :) Thanks for your advice, it's much appreciated!!
 

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bevj_2 said:
loungelizard said:
Get the PH down(7.2-7.4) then I would get the FC level up to around 15 and hold it there while you gradually add CYA. You can add CYA and CHL at the same time, but remember CYA will take a few days to dissolve. When FC holds overnight, the algea is gone and should start clearing up in a few days and you can then focus on getting the right CYA level.
Click to expand...

Okay...that makes sense....I guess that's where I get confused; the matter of timing of when to do certain things, and if adding certain chemicals together is okay. :) Thanks for your advice, it's much appreciated!!
Click to expand...

Make sure to allow at least 30 minutes for the muriatic acid to mix BEFORE you add any chlorine.
 
Make sure to allow at least 30 minutes for the muriatic acid to mix BEFORE you add any chlorine.
Click to expand...

This confuses me a little.....I thought I had to get the pH down to an acceptable level before I do anything else. Did I misunderstand something? Should I be doing both, meaning adding the pH minus AND shocking the pool (waiting 30 minutes or more after adding the pH minus before adding the chlorine), at the same time? The water is bluish/green and cloudy and the chlorine level is at like 1.
 
The pH test is useless at shock levels, so you need to get it right before you start shocking, then ignore it.

So.... pH adjustment, let it mix, then add chlorine.

You can't let up just because of the sun. What will happen is that you will get a good kill at night, the chlorine will be used up, the algae will grow back, and all the bleach you added last night was for nothing. You must stay above shock level all the time, even if it means adding bleach every hour or two. I'm assuming you want the pool clear before August; don't relax until that pool is clear!
 
Richard320 said:
The pH test is useless at shock levels, so you need to get it right before you start shocking, then ignore it.

So.... pH adjustment, let it mix, then add chlorine.

You can't let up just because of the sun. What will happen is that you will get a good kill at night, the chlorine will be used up, the algae will grow back, and all the bleach you added last night was for nothing. You must stay above shock level all the time, even if it means adding bleach every hour or two. I'm assuming you want the pool clear before August; don't relax until that pool is clear!
Click to expand...

Actually, I want the pool clear as soon as possible...it sucks having a pool in my backyard that I can't use. :) This is where I get confused. Why should I worry so much about the pH level now? Should I shock the pool until it's clear, and then worry about getting the pH level right? What effect does the high pH level have on the chlorine level in the pool?

I apologize for the many questions....I have read the pool school articles and a BUNCH of other messages, but it's like information overload....:)
 
bevj_2 said:
Richard320 said:
The pH test is useless at shock levels, so you need to get it right before you start shocking, then ignore it.

So.... pH adjustment, let it mix, then add chlorine.

You can't let up just because of the sun. What will happen is that you will get a good kill at night, the chlorine will be used up, the algae will grow back, and all the bleach you added last night was for nothing. You must stay above shock level all the time, even if it means adding bleach every hour or two. I'm assuming you want the pool clear before August; don't relax until that pool is clear!
Click to expand...

Actually, I want the pool clear as soon as possible...it sucks having a pool in my backyard that I can't use. :) This is where I get confused. Why should I worry so much about the pH level now? Should I shock the pool until it's clear, and then worry about getting the pH level right? What effect does the high pH level have on the chlorine level in the pool?

I apologize for the many questions....I have read the pool school articles and a BUNCH of other messages, but it's like information overload....:)
Click to expand...
Chlorine works better if the pH is at the low end. But you can't get a good pH test if the Chlorine is way high - it changes the color of the red stuff. So once you start shocking, you can't do anything about pH. So don't even bother testing it during the shock process, it will just make you crazy.

Get the pH right, then start shocking.
 
Richard320 said:
Chlorine works better if the pH is at the low end. But you can't get a good pH test if the Chlorine is way high - it changes the color of the red stuff. So once you start shocking, you can't do anything about pH. So don't even bother testing it during the shock process, it will just make you crazy.

Get the pH right, then start shocking.
Click to expand...

Okay, I made a mistake by not checking here first. Last night, I filled my pool & added enough liquid chlorine to shock. Water was crystal clear this morning. Today, my ph tested 8.2 or higher & my TA tested 60. Cya is 0 but will add tonight or tomorrow.

Forgot that ph test is meaningless while shocking & I went ahead and added some ph down (Walmart brand so not sure what it is). Now, water is cloudy. Will it clear up with continued filtering or did I mess up more seriously?

Thanks.

- - - Updated - - -

As as addendum to my post above, walmart brand ph down is sodium bisulfate 93.2% and other identified ingrediients 6.8%. I notiiced slight foaming after adding the ph down.
 
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