Colorlogic replacement question

[skamp]

I need to replace a broken colorlogic LED light in my spa (one of the LED banks died). I know I need to remove the old one and fish the new cable to junction box. My question is what do you need to do if anything to seal the connection in the niche housing where the wire goes through? Do I need to seal with silicon or is there a rubber boot or something? I think the niche is a pentair niche and I am using a Hayward colorlogic 2.5 spa LED. Also not sure if it matters but it is a 120V version of the light. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Steve

 

[divepool]

When I built my pool I used 4 color logic lights, before you remove the light assy and electrical cord make sure you tie and tape a pull string to the end of the electrical cord so you have a way to pull the cord through the conduit. If the niche and conduit were installed correctly you don't have to use a split rubber plug as the conduit will be above the highest point of water and will not drain. With that said I purchased 4 split rubber plugs just to keep moisture from traveling up to my junction box ( again which is above the water level ). Remove your light and see if they install a rubber plug or silicone. Most pool builders don't use either. How old is your light is still might be under warranty. The niche and light assy are wet all the time they are not in a bladder or dry.

Rich

 

[skamp]

When I built my pool I used 4 color logic lights, before you remove the light assy and electrical cord make sure you tie and tape a pull string to the end of the electrical cord so you have a way to pull the cord through the conduit. If the niche and conduit were installed correctly you don't have to use a split rubber plug as the conduit will be above the highest point of water and will not drain. With that said I purchased 4 split rubber plugs just to keep moisture from traveling up to my junction box ( again which is above the water level ). Remove your light and see if they install a rubber plug or silicone. Most pool builders don't use either. How old is your light is still might be under warranty. The niche and light assy are wet all the time they are not in a bladder or dry.

Rich

Rich,
I appreciate the response. The light is about 4 years old so out of warranty. I planned on connecting a pull string or two to the cord at the junction box side before I pull out the old the cord and light assembly out. The only part I was not sure about was sealing the conduit at the niche entry or if it was even needed. The conduit runs to a junction box that is about 15" above the waterline. I would think all conduit would be below the waterline up until the point of coming up to the junction box as it buried 12" or so underground. I am confused by your comment about the conduit being above the highest point of water. Were you only meaning the junction box being above the waterline? Also where did you get the split rubber plugs? Would that be the best route or would sealing with silicon be OK? Again, thanks for the response.

Steve

 

[divepool]

Steve,

When I installed my light niche's, I used several 90deg tube's to create an air gap at the the tubes are 3"-4" above the water line, Most builders don't do this they install the conduit for the easyest and shortest run.

The MFG is www dot gandptools dot com part is called Cord Stoppers (must purchase 6)

Can purchase at below address

www dot poolcenterdot com/leak_detection dot htm (can purchase single item)

Hope this helps, need to pull light to ck weather you have 3/4" or 1" conduit for proper stopper size.

Rich

 

[skamp]

Steve,

When I installed my light niche's, I used several 90deg tube's to create an air gap at the the tubes are 3"-4" above the water line, Most builders don't do this they install the conduit for the easyest and shortest run.

The MFG is www dot gandptools dot com part is called Cord Stoppers (must purchase 6)

Can purchase at below address

www dot poolcenterdot com/leak_detection dot htm (can purchase single item)

Hope this helps, need to pull light to ck weather you have 3/4" or 1" conduit for proper stopper size.

Rich

Ah, air gap. Makes total sense now. My builder did a straight run underground to the junction. I will look into the stoppers. Again, thanks!

Steve